N201MKTurbo

It is 10 more airplanes than Mooney made.

It seems like a candidate for VARMA LOA. I'm sure the capacitor is a standard part.

https://www.americanaviationparts.com/gasket-for-ci-196-revision-k.html

I have a piece of hose with a bolt in it.'

You could do it with a 3 pole double throw start button. The start button from a twin Cessna would work.

I was listening to an aviation podcast on my bike ride tonight and they said Textron has no intention of shutting down production, but their order books are full and they just stopped taking orders until they could clear out the order books a bit. They didn’t want to increase their production capacity, which is about 10 Bonanzas and 10 Barons a year. That was hearsay. The company isn’t commenting.

You can always reduce the fuel flow with the red knob. With the RSA-5 you have no way to increase it. If your FF gauge is accurate, just roll the fuel flow back to 18.5. I normally don't recommend leaning on takeoff or climb, but you seem to have bonus fuel.

I finally bought a LASER steering horn for that plane. I think I paid $600 for it. ~1995.

In my experience the only thing a worn steering horn will do is give you a dead spot in the steering response and if bad enough, it can allow steering shimmy. In my old M20F, it was very worn and it would shimmy some times. A quick rudder kick would stop the shimmy. Shimming up the steering horn at the end of the pivot is a short term fix. the real problem is the clearance between the shaft and the tube it runs in. I think the best fix would be to ream out the tube and plate the shaft to make it bigger and grind it down till it fits tightly into the tube.

The only reason the two steering horns are not interchangeable is the pivot point. The early models had a small tube to put a bolt through and the newer airplanes have a welded on pin. LASAR did have a pin you could bolt into the older models so you could use the newer horns. If they don’t have it anymore, anybody with a lathe could make one in a few minutes.

I would be careful, there are quite a few household cleaners that work great, but are far more corrosive than Simple Green. I tried to look up the SDS for that stuff, but the Canadian rules don’t require an SDS for consumer products, so there could be just about anything in that stuff. BTW, that stuff is only sold at Canadian Tire. Most of us can’t get it. The fact that the bottle says it is an irritant, leads me to believe that it is very alkaline.

I have a feeling the nose wheel links were set way too tight. When towing the plane, or taxiing over rough terrain, the nose gear will go from over-center to having tension on the over-center link making it straight instead of over-center. I could show you if we were under a jacked up plane. You can do it by pushing the nose wheel forward. It will move about 1/2 inch or so. The actuator links need to have enough spring travel so they are not fully compressed when the over-center link is straight with the wheel pushed forward. If the spring fully compresses the stress on retract links must be high enough to buckle the rods. This is orders of magnitude higher than the rods were designed for. It looks like the truss broke instead of the rods.

That wouldn’t work around here. Someone would just rent it forever.

I used to work for a place that had a vac-u-former. It had a frame you would clamp the plastic sheet into. The frame would hold the sheet about 4 inches below the heater which looked like the broiler from an electric oven. You just turned on the heater and waited for the plastic sheet to sag, which took about 20-30 seconds. Then turned on the vacuum and lowered the frame with the hot plastic onto the suction plate with the pattern on it. The place did custom car interiors. They would make custom door panels out of stacked MDF and carve it with belt sanders until it looked the way they wanted, then throw the MDF into the vac-u-former and make the final plastic door panel. We had guys that could make a custom door panel in less than an hour. Everybody played with the vac-u-former. If you wanted a tool organizer for your tool box, you just laid all the tools on the vac-u-former and sucked down a sheet of plastic onto them, then trim it, flip it over and put it in your drawer.

The grounding gasket doesn’t do much when the antenna is mounted on a painted surface. My antenna didn’t work very well. The antenna mounting screws were rusty, the steel tube structure was rusty where the screws attached. I cleaned it all up and painted it with the last zinc chromate I had. I assembled the antenna with new SS screws and put star washers under the heads. The antenna works much better now.

There needs to be a water tight seal around the antenna. I think the polysulfide works better than the original gasket. You want a generous coat on both the airplane and the antenna. Then screw down the antenna and let the sealant extrude out around the base. Carefully wipe the excess off to make a nice fillet. Let it cure and then clean it up with your fingernails or plastic scrapers and finally MEK or denatured alcohol.

The diagrams are in the IPC.

Take it apart. It isn’t rocket science. There is a flap with a seal. The seal is probably dead. You need to make a new seal from silicon baffle seal material.

For $4000, if I cannot make them work, I’ll remove them.

The hinges are at the top and the control links are at the bottom, so you cannot turn them over.

It is stone simple. The secret is to get it all synced up when you put it back together. Run it to some known position like takeoff trim. After this don't rotate the trim shaft! Remove the trim shaft and the indicator cable. Measure the position of the indicator nut and write it down. pull up the carpet around the trim wheel and remove the screws holding it to the floor and remove it from above. If I recall, the chain has a master link. Remove the chain. If it doesn't have a master link, drive out the roll pins on the two sprockets and slide the sprockets off. Disassemble the trim wheel, clean and grease (I used grease 22), clean the chain in a container of solvent until it is squeaky clean. I know the manual says to grease the chain, but that is yucky. I hose them down with a good quality bicycle paraffin based chain lube. Work it in and let it dry. Take the lower gearbox apart, clean it completely. Do a trial reassembly and check how much slop there is in the pinion shaft for and aft. Any slop there will translate into a dead spot in your trim. If there is slop get some shim washers from McMaster Carr and shim it till there is no slop, but not binding. Once it is shimmed up properly, put it back together and pack the gearbox with grease. Put it back into the plane. Spin the wheel until the indicator block is at the same position it was at before you took it apart. install the indicator cable, but don't tighten the wire or indicator nuts (if it has them). Reconnect the drive shaft. Adjust the indicator cable so it indicates the same trim position as before removing it.

Wrap the cylinder in a rag, put your air gun on the fitting and pull the trigger. The puck will come right out. The rag is to keep you from getting sprayed with 5606 and to catch the piston.

I always thought it was 8 degrees. But I would double check.

Huh, when I did my commercial, we did all the maneuvers.

The intent is to see how fast you can descend. You want as much drag as you can get. I put the gear down, flaps down and speed brakes out. Idle power and prop forward. steep turn. You can come down at a crazy rate. I did my check ride at night and did the spiral around a street light in the middle of a farm field.