N201MKTurbo

They are used on early Mooneys

This is the current part number: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining_66-111.php

There are a couple of companies that repair spinners. New ones are available if you have the time and money. I would check the salvage guys.

I’ve had the best luck with 3-in-1 oil for things like that.

This one has a J cowl and a turbo.

Huh, I can usually make the second turnoff at CHD. That is shorter than most 172s. I guess you just have to get a feel for it. But then again, to do that, I flare about 50 feet short of the runway. And touch down on the numbers.

Also remember that the stall speed will be lower in ground effects. It's kind of hard to look out the window to make a good touchdown and look at the airspeed indicator at the same time, but if you are trying to hold it off for a full stall landing (which I do), you will probably find that it settles to the runway at lower than 55 KTS. I check the airspeed on final, but after I'm over the runway I just look out the window. There is nothing inside that will make your landing any better.

Can you hear any audio from the NAV receiver? If it is just static, then you have a receiver issue. If it is dead quiet, you probably have a receiver problem. You should hear the morris code identifier and a whirring sound in the background.

If it is making mechanical noise, replace the bearings if they are ball bearings. If they are plain bearings, clean and lube them.

I have the service manual for them somewhere. I don’t have any KX170s installed anymore. I seem to recall that the radio just sends baseband audio to the nav head. The nav head decodes it into flag and CDI signals. The GS uses a separate receiver that generates flag and GS signals. The bottom line is you cannot test it with a voltmeter. Have you flown an ILS with it and see if the localizer and GS work?

Haven’t been flying like I used to, about 125.

Your info says you are at KTUS, but that looks like KAVQ.

So far, so good.

Are you sure you are putting them on the correct mag? BTW, I'm not faulting you, it is a common problem. The lead sets should come with a routing diagram. FWIW, The leads on my old Cessna are supposed to be routed in this crazy complicated way. I just did them the easy way. The engine in the Wikipedia article has the leads routed just like I did.

FWIW. The 310 window is supposed to be rigged with 0.010 copper wire. It was rigged with 0.020 stainless wire. It was impossible to open.

It will just make the trackers more creative. I think it is a losing battle.

There are only two adjustments on the flaps. The link and the stop. To do the link, put the flaps all the way down and use an angle gauge toget the new flap to match the other flap. Then go fly the airplane and adjust the new stop till there is no heavy wing. Move the stop 1/2 turn at a time.

It’s time to replace the strobes with LEDs.

Tomorrow and next weekend, I’m busy. I could do some evening this week.

You should bring it over some time.

The reason your bottom leads are too long, is because they are not routed according to the book. Six leads should go through the big hole on the baffles. Then four go to the right, through the mounting bracket in the center of the baffle. The leads for the right side bottom plugs go through the feedthroughs on the side of the baffles. The two left bottoms go straight to the plugs Most I have seen route the leads straight to the bottom plugs and then the leads for the right top plugs are routed through the feedthroughs.

Any A&P who knows how to weld can do it. It is in 43.13-1B. I’ve done it. You can make a jig from your existing system by just laying the system upside down on a piece of plywood. Mark the position of the flanges and drill mounting holes for the risers. Bolt the system to the plywood. Assemble the new parts on the jig and tack them together, then take them off and run the welds. I have found it easy around here to find race shops that can make the bends and slip joints. For little money. I will admit I don’t do the welding. I know guys that are artists with a TIG torch. I get them to run the welds.

You want to shim where the main pivot goes through. You may be able to get shims from LASAR, but you may be able to get them from McMaster Carr. A standard washer fits, but it is too thick. If you know someone with a surface grinder, you could grind down a washer and get a perfect fit.

You need to do an ELA to find out if your alternator is the right size. With all the panel work done to most planes, there should be one in the maintenance record somewhere. Most of the avionics STCs require it.

So, don’t spray it on your testicles.