N201MKTurbo

So, with UL94, MP limited to 25” unless you have ADI, then WOT. that seems reasonable.

Is the fluid just water and alcohol? I know just water works pretty good. Never mind, I read the article.

I sold my 56 172 to the dispatcher at Aero Guard. I should give him a call.

ADI can work fine for takeoff and climb, but it will take a lot of fluid to do it for the whole flight. Do you know what the flow rate is for the fluid?

The main reason ULSD is so expensive isn’t completely because of sulphur. With standard fractional distillation there are more heavy distillates than the lighter fractions. Such as gasoline. At the same time that ULSD was mandated, most refineries installed advanced catalytic crackers and reformers. After doing that, they can turn just about anything into gasoline. After these changes, diesel was no longer a waste product, but just another product. Because it has more carbons in it, it takes more of the feed stocks to make it. Therefore it now costs more.

And a new clean sheet EFI engine will far exceed the value of many of our airplanes. And I’ll bet money there won’t be one available within the next 10 years.

You are comparing a marine engine that is liquid cooled with an unlimited source of cold water? While they both are similar because they run at a constant high power, beyond that they are quite different. The marine engines typically make full power at 4000 - 6000 RPM our engines are limited to 2700 RPM. But that's not what we are talking about. We are talking about how to get our existing engines to run on unleaded fuel that doesn't dissolve our airplanes. I don't think Lycoming or Continental would have any problem making a clean sheet engine that would run on 94UL and make whatever power you wanted. They would be a little bit heaver and a little bit less efficient.

Here is a good paper about it: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/14680874211008703

Eric, our engines are tuned for 100% power. That’s where the problem is. What is an electronic fuel injection system and an electronic ignition system going to do to make more power without detonation? There is nothing they can do that we cannot do with what we have. We can adjust spark timing, we can adjust mixture. What else is there? I guess you could say they can get closer to detonation than we normally get, but how would we get there? Knock sensors have proven ineffective on aircraft engines. Ion current sensing may work. I mentioned it to George Braly once and he called me an idiot. But he was selling pressure sensing spark plugs. Pressure sensing spark plugs would work, but they are very expensive. So, what are the detonation margins for a certified aircraft engine? I don’t know the answer to that, do you? It seems to be in FAR 33 sub part D section 33.47 and AC 33.47.

The warbird guys have a lot of engines designed to run on 145 octane fuel. They are all happily flying along on 100LL with MP limitations.

Aside from the politics, it doesn’t really have to hobble our planes that much. Let’s say the MP was limited to 25” would that be the end of the world? It would affect us turbo folks a bit more than the NA folks. Nobody cruises at 100% power anyway. Our cruise power is usually limited by temperature anyway, and the changes would have no impact on cruise performance. So, you cruise at about 225 HP with 100LL. With 94UL you could still cruise at 225 HP, that is well below the power to get detonation. It would only affect your takeoff and climb performance.

I would think that Lycoming could make a 200HP version of the IO-390 that could burn 94 UL.

The only way to make our engines work on a reasonable unleaded fuel (UL94) is to reduce the cylinder pressure. This can be done with a MP limitation, a timing reduction or lower compression pistons. All of these things will reduce the engine power a bit. There is no modern computer magic that can change any of this.

Corrosion is almost always an electro-chemical process. It requires an electrolyte. It has to transfer ions from one place to another. Water is an excellent electrolyte. Most alcohols are poor electrolytes. Most organic chemicals like oil and gasoline are poor electrolytes. So, you cannot just say that fluids are corrosive. While alcohols are not corrosive, they absorb water which is.

I bought an online study guide and remembered the answers to all the questions. Even the ones with the wrong answers. BTW, it was tougher than the ATP written.

I will never hesitate to take a flight on a CRJ. Any airplane that you can crash that bad and everybody walks away, seems like a great airplane to me.

Is it actually using the pressure sense line on the Rocket? If it is, it should be connected to upper deck pressure. If it isn’t, it should be plugged.

I use one on my grease gun. I really like it. There are a couple of zerks in the nose wheel well you cannot use it on, but I bought their accessory kit and the adapters make it easy to do them. The kit is very high quality.

What year is your J? What actuator does it have?

https://www.amazon.com/LockNLube-Narrow-Needle-Dispenser/dp/B0779FK9CZ/ref=asc_df_B0779FK9CZ?mcid=ee996c8b8c8d3518975589deab78bc25&hvocijid=8026372607205017391-B0779FK9CZ-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=730312820598&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8026372607205017391&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030132&hvtargid=pla-2281435180058&psc=1 Those zerks are missing a lot. Mine are missing. I tried to replace them and they fall right out. I have found the above adapter does a great job of injecting grease in the hole. It makes the zerk unnecessary.

What? Big old radials leaking oil? Tell me it isn’t true.

I was wondering how much the 80 year old hull leaks. By the looks of what is coming out of the bilge pump, a lot. I don’t think you want to leave it in the water too long. Or is that just something shiny on the pontoon boat?

I would caution you about “setting the preloads”. I think that is how most Mooneys get their gear messed up. Unless something was replaced or damaged the preloade shouldn’t change. Use the tools to check the preloads, if the preloads are within range, don’t mess with it. If they are not, you have to figure out what isn’t right. With the preloads, some people seem to think more is better, this isn’t true. Anywhere in the acceptable rang is good. With all the non-J bar Mooneys, you should be setting the preloads with spring compression and checking them with the tool. If you don’t understand what I just said, you shouldn’t be working on Mooney gear.

The stains I saw were the same as in the report above. They are lighter now. The bladder repairs must have worked.

It had G100UL signs next to it. I’m pretty sure it is burning G100UL in the left tank and 100LL in the right tank.