N201MKTurbo

I have a book from 1939 titled Aircraft Maintenance. Most of the charts and tables in 43-13.1B are from this book. It’s like it used this book as the foundation for it.

You will never be satisfied with what you have.

https://phys.org/news/2023-12-insights-metabolism-plastic-eating-bacteria.html#:~:text=Halopseudomonas bacteria live in the,for so-called polyester polyurethanes.

It always amazes me that we cannot accept that the best solution has already been discovered. A lot of people must think the people in the past were just stupid. Sure, we have made great strides in electronics, but when it comes to chemistry, I think most of the great discoveries were made a century ago.

Looks like the Navy is going to pay someone to develop a process for removing the stuff. https://govtribe.com/opportunity/federal-contract-opportunity/e-6b-sealant-removal-and-replacement-n0001923rfpreqapm2710068synopsis

Some useful information. So it looks like if you were going to use this on a Mooney tank, you need to seal it with polysulfide and then cover with EFC. At least the big gap spots like the back corners. It looks like for a repair, you can put EFC over EFC. efcguide.pdf

https://www.meggitt.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/EFC100.pdf This is the stuff, not the floor coating.

EFC 100 is polyurethane. I thought everybody decided it was a nightmare.

Our tank sealant is polysulfide. I have some on my left arm right now. The stripper that removes polysulfide is PolyGone.

They don't give a lot of guidance on the type of paint or primer. I have been using the magnesium conversion coating, but it doesn't seem to work as well as zinc chromate. I would definitely cook them in an oven before painting to drive the moisture out of the magnesium. They seem to list every kind of paint. It's nice to know I've been masking them properly all these years.

Why did you remove the brake caliper? Now you will have to bleed the whole system. If I do remove the caliper, I quickly cap the hose. I fill the caliper with fluid and quickly reconnect the hose. A couple of peddle pumps out the bottom and the brakes are good as new.

The wheels are made of magnesium. They are cad plated. If all the plating is gone, you need to paint them. Back when you could get it, zinc chromate worked great. I'm not sure what to use these days.

It is not only a good idea, it is required. But often overlooked. You should do the test according to the battery service manual.

So, you have to look at the behavior of bubbles in small tubes. If the bubbles are big enough to go from wall to wall, called a slug of air, they usually won't move through the tube. For the slug to move, the liquid must flow around the slug. that happens very slowly if at all. Bubbles are small spheres of air that are smaller than the diameter of the tube. Applying vacuum will cause gas that is dissolved in the liquid to come out of solution as bubbles , possibly forming slugs. Vacuum will only cause the slugs to grow in size. I have found in some previous R&D jobs that applying cyclic vacuum may encourage the slugs to move. There are a lot of papers written about this, but most are behind paywalls.

A friend of mine got to ride on one of those to a carrier off the coast of San Diego. And back again to El Centro. He had his jet at an air show in El Centro and they took all the air show pilots to the carrier. Not a lot of civilians get to get caught on a wire and shot from a catapult.

I have also been using an oil can for years and it always works. I use a piece of clear plastic tubing from the oil can to the caliper. That way you can see if you are pumping in any air and stop before it gets to the caliper.

Actually, it isn’t that hard. Just sand down the fiberglass with your air sander and peel it out. You could make a new one out of shim stock. Lay it in and fiberglass it back in place. When I redid my cowl about 15 years ago, I had all 5 strips out and put them back in. The five strips are one on the top cowl, one on each side of the bottom cowl and two more, one on each side of the prop ring.

The fire retardant additive is antimony trioxide. You can find it on EBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325420943122?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=325420943122&targetid=1529314448590&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9030090&poi=&campaignid=20382379140&mkgroupid=151098995226&rlsatarget=pla-1529314448590&abcId=9316959&merchantid=102015680&gad_source=4&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh_uKv_5xwiDj0wQmyYmcR-3I&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8ZCOzIL_hAMVG8rCBB3KqwgDEAQYBCABEgKp0fD_BwE

You got to love the crapalloy case. The rich Corinthian tungsten.

I think I have one of these in the garage: https://www.rfcafe.com/miscellany/humor/ge-turbo-encabulator.pdf Its a GE version and I know that’s not the one you are looking for, but if this one will work, hit me up.

I've never dealt with them, but a friend has sent them 3 propellers and he was happy with their work. And I signed off the annual afterwards. He put on engines that were in storage for a decade. He sent the props out for overhaul. One of the governors had a seized relief valve from sitting so long, so when he started the right engine it blew the prop apart. It was a sad sight.

It doesn’t look like the correct screw. The real screw, wasn’t a regular set screw. It had some kind of pin nose. There is enough sticking out that you could unscrew it with a pair of pliers and get the correct screw. You will need to be a screw sleuth to figure it out. Probably won’t find the part number.

I have heard good things about https://www.santamonicapropeller.com

Remove the set screw on the side of the knob and it will lift right off. You have to unbend the ring to get it off. FWIW, there is supposed to be a placard that goes there that shows L R and off. I have a new one in the hangar, but it is for my plane. The black color is the factory color.

Someone sent me a worn out duct for a C Mooney. I disassembled it and figured out how it was made. It is actually made like a scat tube. A wire is spiral wound around a form. Then a single sheet of fabric reinforced uncured rubber is wrapped around the wire with a 30% overlap at the top of the duct. Then an uncured rubber coated string is wrapped around in between the wire spirals. It appears the ends were left to extend a few inches and were cut at the corners. The ends were sandwiched between two die cut pieces of reinforced rubber. Additional pieces were added to seal the corner cuts. This whole sandwich appeared to be clamped into a metal press jig of some sort to form the ends. I assume the whole arrangement was put into the curing oven and vulcanized. After curing, the ends were trimmed, and part numbers were pad printed on the end flange.