N201MKTurbo

If you don't care about the plastic bag with the Mooney part number they are $17.00 http://www.mcmaster.com/#eyebolts-and-eye-nuts/=7rgg91

These gauges will show a max indication when the probe is open not shorted. With my old M20F it was usually the connector on the probe. You can check the wireing by disconnecting the connector and shorting the two pins together. The meter should indicate zero, if it does not then there is a problem elsware in the wireing. If it does then disassemble the connector and squeeze the female pins to increase the spring pressure, or spend $50 for a new connector and an hour of labor to change it.

I hear a lot of talk about how electronic ignition controls will allow an engine make rated power on lower octane fuel. This is just not true. They may be able to get the most power out of an engine running lower octane fuel, but electronic spark advance cannot change the knock characteristics of the fuel engine combination. If we can get fuel with a guaranteed octane number there will still be a fixed spark advance setting that will give you the most amount of power without detonation. With variable timing you will never know with any certainty how much power your engine is making. Does anybody have any numbers on how much an IO-360 would need to be de-rated to use 94UL? Don’t expect 94UL to be any cheaper then 100LL the manufacture, testing and delivery would be almost the same.

The cables need to be disconnected from the prop governor and the fuel servo, the firewall bulkhead fittings need to be unscrewed, the cables need to be pulled out through the holes in the panel and fished back again. It is kind of a pain in the butt. If you have the panel apart it would be a good time to do it. Don’t forget to re-do the panel markings. I flew a 67F for 19 years. I think the Mooney arrangement is correct and all the other planes are wrong!

The last time I had my seats done I used an auto shop. The guy at the shop said he knew exactly what to do. When he was done he presented me with a burn cert. for every piece of material used with a sample of each stapled to each cert. He did a great job $200 each for the front seats and $300 for the rear – wool fabric and new foam. He turned them in two days.

First off, the IO-360 has one of the highest HP/cu in ratings out there. It is a high strung engine. I don’t see what the big deal is with de-rating the engine. It would require a slightly longer takeoff roll at low altitude airports. At cruse we typically set our engines at 75% power (150 HP) we use these power settings for engine structural and thermal considerations. If the max power of the engine is reduced there is no reason that we couldn’t still cruse at 150 HP. If the engines are de-rated by imposing a limit on manifold pressure, the low elevation takeoff will be the only thing affected. If the engines are de-rated with a timing change then the service ceiling will also be reduced.

If I recall the later Mooneys specify an amount of spring compression for the nose gear instead of preload torque, but the 67F specifies preload torque (I owned and maintained one for 19 years). I think your mechanic is using the wrong service information for your plane. It looks like your gear needs a thorough re-rigging. Takes about three hours if you know what you are doing - weeks if you don't.

I had an odd problem once with my Mooney, it mostly manifested itself while starting. It turned out to be a grounding problem with the battery. The battery is grounded to the cross member that is bolted to the fuselage. The bad connection was where the cross member was attached to the fuselage. I had to remove the four bolts that attach the cross member. I cleaned the crud off of the mating surfaced and replaced the hardware adding star washers under the bolt head and nut to give a good electrical connection. All of my electrical problems went away!

FYI The tube the compass is mounted to is aluminum and replaceable.

The clock is required for IFR

Sounds like a loose wire or a bad connection somewhere in the probe circuit. One of the two states will be wrong and the other is probably OK.

When I was a kid there was a lot of sky writing. I watched it a lot. I don't remember seeing anything that would be considered aerobatics. More like precision flying. It mostly consisted of straight lines and level turns. I see no reason it could not be done in a Mooney. The text is laid out parallel to the ground not vertically.

With regard to the nuts, if I cannot spin them on with my fingers then they are still good.

You should NEVER!! use polyester fiberglass resin on a Mooney cowl!! It will not bond properly and will cause stress risers at the interfaces because it is stiffer then the original epoxy. The Mooney maintenance manual is very specific about what materials are allowed. Any Mooney cowl with polyester resin is unairworthy! Mooney cowls are made with a high grade fiberglass cloth (not available at a boat shop) and epoxy resin with fire retardant. You are not doing yourself any favors repairing your cowl with the wrong materials. If you must shop at a boar store use West Marine's Epoxy.

Lycoming Says that the engine should be warm enough that it does not stumble when the throttle is advanced. I wait for the CHTs (scanner) to be above 200 and the oil to be above 100, which they are after run-up except on the coldest days. I have never seen any ill effects from this in 5000 hours on two Mooneys.

The limit indicator is just a clamp on piece of sheetmetal and a sticker. I can't imagine it is too expensive. You might be able to find one at a junk yard.

When checking for the gap on the doughnuts, temperature and load have a lot to do with it. If you jack up any mooney on a cold winter morning there will probablly be a gap. Let the gear hang and warm up and the doughnuts will probably come back into spec. If you ever find a Mooney with a rotated top plate then it is time to replace the doughnuts.

If you fly your plane regularly any oil should work fine. If it goes weeks without flying then you need an oil that will not run off of the metal parts and will give some amount of protection during startup with essentially a dry cam and tappet bodies. Corrosion is also a problem after the oil runs off. I fly about 5 hours every week and for the last 25 years have been using Aeroshell 100W and have had no signs of corrosion or wear in any of the engines I have had. A weekly flight of at least 30 minutes is much better for your engine then any oil or additive you can buy.

You don't have to fib. Ded reconing is a legal form of IFR navigation. If that makes you uncomfortable ask for a vector. As long as you don't say that you navigating by GPS you are in the clear. ATC will often ask "can you navigate to XXXX" to which I reply "Affermative". They don't ask how and I don't tell them how I'm doing it. I remember reading a story once in Flying where one of the writers was riding along in an airliner on a trip from St Louis to Miami, just after takeoff the captain asked ATC for direct Miami and ATC granted his request. The writer didn't see any long range nav gear and asked the captain how he was navigating? The captain pointed out the windshield and said "Miami is that way"...

Stefanovm You are also missing a clamp. There should be a second clanp held on by a spacer and bolt that goes through the empty hole in the middle of your second photo.

Stefanovm You should not use a cushoned clamp for the cable. You will never get it stop slipping. Rig the cable about 1/4 inch through the clamp, then wrap about two turns of lock wire around the end of the cable sheath, twist it tight for the length of the clamp then wrap a few more turns around the cable on the other side of the clamp and twist the loose ends. Another option would be to get some of the boden cable nuts that are used on the Mooneys with the Dukes gear actuator for the emergency engagement cable and put two nuts on either side of the cable.

I have never thought touch and goes in the Mooney were particularly difficult. The only thing is to get all over the trim before you bring the power up. As with anything, do what you are comfortable with. If you don't feel comfortable doing touch and goes then don't do them. As for me, I use this darn thing (mooney) to commute to work and have been for almost 20 years. So I don't think much about how to take off and land I just do it. One thing that I have noticed about quite a few Mooneys I have flown is that the idle speed is set way to high. This can cause the plane to float forever. You should have the idle set at 500 RPM (IO-360). This can be acheived if the mags and fuel injector are set up right.

I just got back yesterday from a trip from Phoenix to Indianapolis. I stopped at Neosho, MO where they have cheap gas and courtesy cars (Crown vic with spotlight) that they will let you use over night. I drove up to Joplin, MO to spend the night. it is only about 8 miles north. I liked that town it had everything i needed.

When I bought my current mooney it was way out of rig. During a BFR I did a power on stall and it almost snap rolled. Shortly after that I re-rigged the plane, gained 15 knots and now it stalls nice and straight. The point is that a Mooney mis-rigged bad enough might actually roll inverted during a power on stall.

If you lubricate them at every annual you will not have this problem.