N201MKTurbo

Rolling down the runway at 100 KTS with a 40 KT crosswind doesn’t sound like a good idea to me.I like to get stopped as soon as I can in conditions like that.

https://www.amazon.com/Herculiner-Truck-Liner-Black-Quart/dp/B0002TDUXS/ref=asc_df_B0002TDUXS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312158556709&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=703424226598373913&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030088&hvtargid=pla-436193026953&mcid=0f889c48da1e3e5e9194625b263f8e9a&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgZ-pmr7AhQMVmiCtBh0LVgoiEAQYASABEgI_s_D_BwE&th=1 I was a little off on the price, but still less than half of the price.

A friend of mine redid his wing walk with bed liner from the AutoZone. It looks exactly like that stuff. It is about $15 a can.

I’ve popped the alternator breaker after jump starting a dead battery. I know, you are not supposed to do that.

eLORAN transmits differential corrections in its data channel. Other than that, it is the same as LORAN-C. Obama signed legislation to turn it off, then signed legislation to not dismantle the stations. Trump signed legislation to explore turning it back on with enhancements. The military has been exploring it ever since. It is just waiting for funding. You would think the massive infrastructure bill would have had a few pennies for LORAN.

It seems that some of the LORAN chains are periodically turned back on for testing. I still have a LORAN in the avionics museum and an antenna. I think I will hook it up and see if I get a signal.

The ALT breaker is on the output of the alternator. The ALT FLD breaker is for the voltage regulator. If you pull the ALT FLD breaker, you will turn off the voltage regulator which removes excitation from the alternator so it will not make any power. It is mostly there to protect the regulator. Sometimes if the alternator stops working, power cycling the regulator will reset it and it will start working again.

I'm a big fan of swamp coolers. (Pun intended) I have one in my hangar. When I was a kid, almost all houses had swamp coolers. Around 1980 they quit building houses with swamp coolers. I don't think you can buy a house with one now. My last house I retrofitted a swamp cooler along with the air conditioner. It had an automatic damper that would open when you turned on the evaporative cooler. They work great except between mid July and the end of August. When I was a kid, people would geek out on making their coolers work the best, even into the humid days of August. Adding Up-Ducs, cracking the windows in each room to get the perfect air flow. In May through mid July, they would sometimes over cool and freeze you out, so we would put thermostats on them. The fancy ones would change from high fan speed to low fan speed to off. You get creative with the water flow to limit the salt buildup on the pads. The best thing is to run the water through once and then water your yard with it, but that costs a fortune. The best compromise was to add a water bleed on the recirc pump to pump some water overboard. You still needed to clean or replace the pads at least once a year if not more often.

My air conditioner only cools to 80 degrees inside when it is 120 outside because that's where I set it. any cooler and I have to put on a sweater. It will go much colder than that. I think air conditioners have to work much harder in humid areas than here. The latent heat of condensation is much higher than the sensible heat in dry air. When measuring the delta temperature of an air conditioning system, they usually measure the temperature at the return and the closest outlet duct, so they are measuring the delta of the evaporator. The ability of the condenser to reject heat does affect the efficiency. If you want to supercharge your AC, put a sprinkler next to the condenser.

If I was doing it, I would do it in three steps. First I would clean it with solvent (gasoline) to get the bulk of the oil off the concrete. Then I would scrub it with TSP to get any residual oil and grease off the floor, then a light acid wash to neutralize the TSP and etch the concrete.

If the one you receive is bad, send it back and file an SDR with the FAA. The PMA process requires quality checks. if a bad one gets to the field, there is a quality failure that needs to be corrected.

You may find a diode under the heat shrink. If so it is what is called a flyback diode. When you open the circuit to a big inductor like the solenoid coil, the magnetic field collapses and tries like hell to make infinite voltage back through the circuit. The diode gives this charge a discharge path and saves the other electronics in the circuit from the abuse.

There are spring loaded contacts and detent balls. They are not tricky, but when you take it apart, do it over a soft towel so nothing rolls away. As far as cleaning the contacts, I would use 1000 grit wet sandpaper to polish out any pitting and to remove any crud. Wash thoroughly with solvent and get it squeaky clean. I would reassemble with DC4.

FWIW, if the retard points have worn to where they aren’t opening, that would cause the same symptoms. Either way the solution is under the point cover. It is just 4 screws that are easy to get to.

Strangely, this happened to me on Don Maxwells ramp. I was looking at my current Mooney. I talked to Don on the phone, but he never came out. It was a Sunday afternoon. He didn’t have any thing to add. I pulled the P-lead cover off the mag to look at the points and found the shorted wire. I just pulled the spade terminal off the points and rotated it 180 degrees which pulled the wire away from the case. It worked fine after that.

I had this happen on my old M20F. It did exactly what you said. The only way I could start it was to get it cranking and then let go of the key. It would usually start doing that. It turned out to be the wire in the mag that went from the retard P-lead to the retard points. It was touching the case and wore through the insulation and shorted the retard breaker. The switch connects the main and retard P-leads together when you push the key in. With the shorted wire, that shorts out both points, killing the mag. When you release the key, it disconnects the two P-leads from each other and lets the mag work normally. If it is going fast enough, it will make a spark and you are off and running.

These switches are built like a brick outhouse. I cannot imagine a more robust switch. Plus they are easy to take apart, clean, polish the contacts and reassemble. I don't see any reason they cannot be maintained forever unless something is physically broken. The lock assembly is a standard part that most locksmiths can repair or replace. The contacts are so beefy that they can get cleaned up quite a few times if they get pitted and dirty.

I can’t see them either.

Most likely the key is warn out not the tumblers. Either way a locksmith can fix it.

Take out the tumblers and take it to a locksmith. They can probably fix it for little money.

Just make sure they log the scale weights. everything else can be recalculated. If it isn't level, it can change the CG a little, but not the empty weight.

Mine is on the left wing. There is only one temperature that matters, 0 deg C. You can tell it is right when the ice starts forming at -0.1 and starts to melt at 0.1 deg C. I’ve had my Davtron OAT for about 20 years. Haven’t got much ice in those years, but every time I did, the OAT was spot on.

Take the metal plates at the back and flip them over. The steel tubes wear into them, if you flip them over, it’s like having brand new ones.

If I can get rid of my project Cessna, I would be interested in another project. So if you don’t get any bites on it, keep me in mind.

I just squirt it with a hose and then wipe it with a soapy rag. It has never failed.