triple8s

No no this is surely a result of sanded rivets.

FYI Tom and I are hangar mates and I must say although his "E" is an excellent specimen overall, the FWF is absolutely gorgeous.

What's involved with putting the OEM on a short body. Not asking about the actually mechanical chores I mean the legalities. I owned a 1965 C model with OEM 201 cowl so I understand fully what must be changed to make it work, really makes for a beautiful short body Mooney. Also wanted fuel injection and always wondered what would be required to put the fuel injection on the parallel valve engine. I've seen it on a Skyhawk and other certified aircraft. When there is an improvement discovered, utilized by the factories on the new models seems to me that after a reasonable time in service it will have proved itself to either be a good thing or bad and if it is a true improvement to safety or function, why the heck is regulation standing in the way of progress? (Eg. Shoulders harness)

I took pic of my nose gear with my phone once when I parked at an airport where the line ppls didn't look to my liking. We used to put those ketchup packs under the toilet seat in the bathroom at school when I was a kid...lol If you take a pic you have a date stamp for proof of when the tubes/gear was damaged.

I bought a C in 07 been on a few trips with the Mrs. had no problem with the room or lack of, then last summer I bought an R and sold the C, she hasn't even rode in it. :-S I like the long body for the most part, still have squawks once in awhile, it likes fuel, it's harder to get stopped. All in all I do like it. The biggest reason I traded was I had as much or more in the C than I could sell it for and I had other things that needed to be done, so I figured trade and when I spend on it atleast I won't be upside down financially I also wanted fuel injection and that would have cost a wad too.

I flew a C with the HC-CY2K/F7666, and when I had the eddy current done they said I oughta have it overhauled because it had been quite a while so I flew it till next ECI and sent it to them. Turned out that even though it had been years the prop was actually I excellent shape and cost very little to overhaul. That being said, read up on propeller failures. Made me want to get it done.

I'd find an experienced Mooney mechanic. Sorry to hear bout your misfortune. I manage maintenance activities for utility contractor. We have many mechanics and I can assure you all mechanics are not created equal.

When going from 2 blade to 3 and the horsepower/rpm increase doesn't it lower the TBO? Also, would it not be a loss in fuel efficiency at cruise? I've been thinking about the conversion as my hangar mate had an Ovation and went this way. He told me I wouldn't believe the difference.

Congrats on the Oh you'll love it.

Works good on my droid

I can't remember where I saw it or exactly which engine it was but "somewhere" I saw a 6cylinder lyc or TCM with liquid cooled heads. I know the liquid rocket had a liquid cooled engine, but that wasn't the one I saw. Amazing how home building pollutes ones mind.....

Well............several ways of looking at this. First off Mooneys aren't forgiving however, this can be said, the short body Mooneys will take a LOT more punishment than most people think, but, there is one thing that they don't put up with and that is for the nose wheel to touch first on landing. So this being said, if a person was going to take flight instruction in a Mooney I'd say a cheap well used but mechanically sound C model would work and could be purchased reasonably. I'd find one with minimal radios dual nav/com and if the tanks were a little leaky, maybe crappy paint what would it matter. Maybe get one that had a little history but repaired properly. The key to this working wold be a good instructor that has Mooney experience. I know everybody talks about how blah blah blah instructor that they know or use is the best they ever met I had said that about a few I had used, but you are going to have to get a darn good one. Just holding a CFI or Double I doesn't mean anything other than they have a ticket. It's like being in school some have a degree in education and some people know how to "teach". You"ll need a good instructor. You get your PPL, maybe trade planes or do some remodeling (radio upgrade or paint or interior or maybe tank resealed ) whatever maybe even trade up. Thing is a tired C model with a O-360 lycoming and manual gear is pretty darn durable and cheap to operate. Yes it will be more to think about when beginning but that is where the good instructor comes into play. If you don't listen to anything I've written listen to this.......no matter what brand you get even if you rent, get a good instructor, I started flying in 1996 and have had 5 instructors and I didn't know what a good instructor was I didn't realize it is like in school, some people have a gift to teach. Find an instructor who knows their stuff and has the gift to teach this will be key.

I'm a new IFR pilot had it for a little over a year, about 650 hr tt. Seems like I am always explaining to folks why I opt out due to this or that that I don't like about the weather. It's weird I know some guys that "go be damned" I just don't have the guts for that, I'd rather be a live coward I guess.

We'll I tried to move the pic but I'm on an iPad and it isn't working like my PC ......operator error....

I just opened the right access panel and noticed people at the factory signed their names inside. I wonder why they'd do that?

Sky guard looks good but I have a gtx330es so I don't need the out and I have a DynonD1 so I don't need the AHRS.

Anyone got experience with sagetech/clarity? Or dual X? I want to run the FlyQ EFB on a mini pad.

I love Avare

We had a land clearing machine at work. It traveled from job site to jobs site via a drop deck. & KW W900L and sometimes (most of the time) it wouldn't start when the temps were low. As they say necessity is the mother of invention here is what we did. We bought 4 qui disconnects for a hydraulic system, we used 1/2 inch flush face self sealing so trash wouldn't get into the system. We then installed two ball valves on the machine in its heater hose lines and two ball valves in the KW heater hoses. We then made two hydraulic hoses up so the antifreeze from the ken worth would circulate through the Hydro Axe ( land clearing machine) thus preheating the engine. For an application to heat an airplane engine one could build a heater box that could be connected to a vehicles coolant system and a small 12v circuit to operate a blower to force air through a heater core in the homemade heater box. The heater box could be used to blow the warmed air through a duct to heat the engine of an aircraft. Once the engine was preheated the ball valves closed the two antifreeze lines ( umbilical ) is disconnected and rolled up, placed in a large plastic trash bag and stored in the trunk along with the heater box. If it was very cold I guess a fella could get an inverter installed in the auto and go that route. Lots of ways to skin the cat I guess it just depends on how ya wanna go about it.

We had a land clearing machine at work. It traveled from job site to jobs site via a drop deck. & KW W900L and sometimes (most of the time) it wouldn't start when the temps were low. As they say necessity is the mother of invention here is what we did. We bought 4 qui disconnects for a hydraulic system, we used 1/2 inch flush face self sealing so trash wouldn't get into the system. We then installed two ball valves on the machine in its heater hose lines and two ball valves in the KW heater hoses. We then made two hydraulic hoses up so the antifreeze from the ken worth would circulate through the Hydro Axe ( land clearing machine) thus preheating the engine. For an application to heat an airplane engine one could build a heater box that could be connected to a vehicles coolant system and a small 12v circuit to operate a blower to force air through a heater core in the homemade heater box. The heater box could be used to blow the warmed air through a duct to heat the engine of an aircraft. Once the engine was preheated the ball valves closed the two antifreeze lines ( umbilical ) is disconnected and rolled up, placed in a large plastic trash bag and stored in the trunk along with the heater box. If it was very cold I guess a fella could get an inverter installed in the auto and go that route. Lots of ways to skin the cat I guess it just depends on how ya wanna go about it.

"I will rent for a while get experience and buy a house first then use some equity to buy the bird once I've some time and IR ratings." Now this is some serious wisdom no kidding!

I have to wonder, is the original 201 cowl mod more efficient than a good cowl closure. 880 had the OEM 201 cowl, and it was fairly slippery. Also I wonder just how many C's had the OEM 201 cowl. It's a shame there isn't a reasonably priced alternative.

I watched a video on this. It takes many steps to go from beginning to end and after watching the video I can see lots of wrong ways to do it. They did use micro mesh in some of the steps. I'll see if I can find the video.

I have been trying to decide, I have a mini pad and have been told the XM has better resolution than ADS-B. Maybe I'll keep my XM not sure yet but, I am not sure what would be the best route. I currently have a 496 w/XM and I like it but the screen is too small, and, if ADS-B is free.....why not, but if the resolution isn't as good.....how much a difference is there? Is GDL 39 all I would need?