triple8s

I know if the aux tank install is done improperly it is a very bad thing, here's why, crossover isnt in the proper location, fill the mains it runs over into the aux, but cant all go back to the mains. Ok dont fill the mains and you have less than full capacity on the mains then you fly and the fuel in the mains sloshes over into the aux's then it wont come back, sounds fun eh? The oil change issue at annual??? Use that to your advantage buy the guy a filter, take the one off the bird and cut it open, but IMHO airframe issues, corrosion, holes drilled in places where they dont belong, mods and no paperwork??? Offer a salvage price for a static M20C display and you'll be in the ballpark. Just my opinion.

Hydraulic Flap System Bleeding (from service & maintenance manual # 104) When flap action becomes erraticor when repairs requirethe replacement of actuating components, it is necessary to bleed the Hyd flap system. Best results are acheived with the use of clean hydraulic fluid from a hydraulic fluid system bleeder (pressure pot) pressurized with air to approximately 35-40 psi. Remove hydraulic reservoir vent cap. Disconnect hydraulic cylinder piston rod from jack shaft. Open bleed valve in "T"-fitting at hydraulic cylinder. Pump actuating handle and observe flow of fluid from bleeder valve into catch pan. When fluid clears of bubbles and runs transparent, slide shaft and piston to bottom to expell air Pump actuating handle to re-extend piston and shaft. Repeat steps 5 & 6 until all traces of air is removed from expelled fluid. Close bleed valve Remove exess fluid from reservoir through side plug to re-establish proper level. The above is taken from my service & maintenance manual if the mechanic did get all the air out of the system it has to be debris under the ball valve. There are 2 ball valves, one is between the valve and cylinder and another is under the bleed off adjustment, both have springs so if you arent careful the will go flyin when you take them apart. Good luck.

I'm going to get the service manual for mine it is S/N 2895 M20C and I'll make sure. Be back in a few minutes.

Ok if you push the small lever to make the flaps stay down (hydraulic valve lever) and pump the flap lever to deploy the flaps, do they go down a bit then come back up as you bring the pump handle up for another stroke? I would think it would have to be a problem with the valve that is conected via the cable to the small lever. I'd definetely replace the O-rings in the valve as well. Check the valve, the valve diverts oil thru a one-way check when closed and it sounds like there could be debris (piece of old o-ring) keeping the check ball off the seat a bit.

Thank God I'm not the only one that still has those embarassing landings sometimes. I have been flying Cessnas for years and got a Mooney last spring, now with about 50 hours behind me I still sweat the landings. About 3/4 of the time they are ok, but throw in some crosswind and a short runway and well we all know what can happen. I am hesitant to go on trips if I even think there will be a x-wind. I hate that because my bird is a real x-country machine with O-360 and long range tanks it's perfect for traveling but I have yet to "nail" the landings. Sometimes they are greasers and sometimes they're a humbling experience. I have learned this, the KEY to landing my M20c is airspeed on final, 75-80 over the numbers or it will be very interesting, and the most important thing, after the second bounce, its firewall it and go around cause the third one will usually get the prop, or so I'm told, I go around.

I read somewhere on here someone was mentioning a "strange" material in the maingear wheel well, a strange material around the gear actuator rod. My question, is there a place to buy a replacement boot or the material to cover the opening around this, hopefully with out having to disconect the rod for installation. I've also noticed it looks like the same material against the inside of the firewall behind the rudder pedals. Another question I had, is there a wheel well liner for the nose gear? I've noticed the tape has peeled back on a hole or two in the nose gear wheel well area, is this common? I'd hate to have mice get in, a friend had a Maule that a family of mice moved into and they caused him to have to re-wire, and I even saw a spar corroded on a 201 where a rats nest was built next to the main spar and the rat urine and debris cause the spar to corrode. Thanks, Mike

On the 550 we pulled the cylinders off and one of them had a hole burned or melted, what ever you would like to call it, at the edge of the piston and down the side of the piston. The cause of this according to the mechanic was a faulty injector that caused an uneven fuel distribution and evidently one of the cylinders didnt recieve as much fuel as the others. As the engine was disassembled further molten aluminum balls were found through out the crankcase, I had a graph that shows the relationships of the temp curve, power curve, air density and the mixture ranges where detonation begins. All these things contribute to piston/cylinder failure. Cant seem to find the graph I have it on here somewhere. I did find a graph in the UGB-16 manual and according to E.I. this is what their manual says: The following is a list of some of the problems reported from excessive EGT's and/or CHT's * Sticky valves due to excessive heat, causing oil to bake on to the valve stems. * Burnt exhast valves caused by excessive heat and /or sticky valves. * Extensive exhaust valve guide wear due to heat. * Cracks and heat damage to the ring lands caused by detonation. Anyhow, excess heat and detonation are things I prefer to avoid even if I do use more fuel. Dont get me wrong LOP operating if done properly is more efficient, however it must be done properly and I believe there isnt as much room for error as being ROP, so, I'll buy the fuel. Thats just me.

Mooney=setting in slightly reclined lounge chair C-172=setting on a bar stool Ok maybe I exagerated a bit but I am 6'2 and MUCH more relaxed setting in my old Mooney than a Cessna, and as for the Piper argument my cousin owned a Turbo Arrow and my M20C flies almost the same speeds albeit I do have numerous speed mods, the difference in fuel burn and the cost of aquisition make it no contest when it comes to economics. You can buy a good vintage mooney with a few speed mods for thousands less than an Arrow. I never realized it but, a good well maintaned Mooney, even an old one, is a true misers airplane and a true performer. Another difference is the safety of having a 4130 roll cage. I'll take the Mooney anyday!

Craig? Did you aquire your bird on the islands or fly it there from the mainland? I was curious about the smaller GA planes out there after visiting the islands, is there some kind of temporary auxillary tank used to ferry planes there? I've been to Maui a couple'a times and absolutely LOVE it, however if I lived there I wouldnt be without a plane.

I hope you dont think I am butting in here but I'd rather butt in and risk you're ill will towards me than to have you suffer the fate of my friend. The friend I speak of had some come and go EGT & CHTproblems with his lancair legacy w/ Supercharged IO/550 Connie. I suggested he get an engine analyzer, well, he put it off and we never thought anymore of it, then back in the summer he lost a cylinder due to lean out and it wiped the entire engine because of the aluminum spray blown into the crankcase. Several months and 50,000 $ later he is back in the air but he was just lucky he was close to our airport when it was so close to letting go. I would strongly advise of getting some type of analyzer it may save lots of money down the road, you may even save more than money. My friend Tom says he wished he'd spent the 1800$ for the analyzer instead of the engine O/H. Good Luck, Mike KIA6