triple8s

Just some thoughts: Single engine makes reliability of that one engine of utmost importance. Fuel, air, & ignition source are the 3 things it takes to make a fire. Because I only have one engine out there pulling me through the air I am going to do everything in my control to make sure it is as perfect as I can get it. My life is on the line as well as other innocent folks (passengers and people on the ground) Mags are cheap compared to radios and other aircraft expenses. I replace with new at 500hrs gets me new coils, new plastic gears, new condensers new everything not just parts that are "with in tolerances" new. Is that neccessary? Maybe not but just remember the engine will not run at all without a good magneto and the importance of that is very clear if the engine manufacturers put two of those on our engines. All aircraft engines have 2 mags, 2 plugs per cyl, 2 sets of wires 2 positions on key switch. Lots of expense by the manufacturer to facilitate 2 mags. This tells me something. Oh and dont think I am some wealthy guy who has money to burn I am cheap cheap cheap on lots of things but magneto and fuel system is not one of those things. My thoughts

Just want to say you can easily get carb ice when there is no visible moisture. If you are flying a carb engine use carb heat as instructed in the poh. I have seen many central heat and air units froze up and they weren't flying through visible moisture. Seriously follow the poh and I had a carb temp gauge so I could tell when the carb temp would get below freezing. You be surprised how cold a carb will get when throttle is anything but wide open. Once it gets iced up and quits you have zero heat for the carb heat function.

id call Morristown and get a used one unless my plane was like very new.

The TCM IO-550G gets 280hp by turning 2500rpm and only getting 21.3 -22.1 gph of fuel. Power, horsepower is generated by burning fuel, limit fuel, limit horsepower generated. Don't misinterpret my saying limit fuel what we are limiting is fuel AND air, air being limited by turning the engine slower. Wouldn't be a good idea to limit the fuel with the red knob, the air and fuel together at the proper stichiometric ratio. The same engine turning 2700 rpm (more air flow) and a higher fuel flow 25.6-27.3 yields 310hp. Same engine different power output by different fuel/rpm settings.

Better becareful with that crazy thing! Might get too much suction and stretch ........something

Better becareful with that crazy thing! Might get too much suction and stretch ........something

I heard from a friend who was there that he shut down and was out at the front and moved the prop after engine was shut down. The key was not turned off, supposedly he barely moved the prop and it popped once. I have moved the prop after shut down to give clearance with the tug and been fussed at by a few folks for touching the prop. I generally place the key in eye shot of the front of the plane so I know it is indeed out and off, however my mechanic always fusses anytime someone touches the prop on aircraft around his shop he says a broken p-lead is all it could take.

http://clevelandbanner.com/stories/florida-man-dies-in-propellor-accident-at-jetport,84107

Not all 310's have the BB TCM's a very few have A pair of Big turbo Lycs hangin on them. Think it was done by Riley.

Had a similar occurrence with a C model and the glareshield could be removed along with a flat aluminum piece between 201 style windshield and padded glareshield. Removed those and took a copilot for a taxi test. He carried a mirror and had right front seat removed. With the mirror and the seat removed he found chaffing and a short after 30 or so minutes of taxing it was a wiring bundle which had sagged such that the yoke brushed it and caused a momentary short. Had avionics work done recently. Only shorted when yoke was in a certain position. So be sure to also move controls in all possible positions while stopped and someone observing. Good luck

Here is one the my took but the pic doesn't do it justice.

Bad day for someone at keqy.....on the bright side Mooney is a tough bird and I've seen many repaired and I the air again.

I was a C flier for several years, my previous CFI always said what a good plane it was but he always warned about what an ice maker that plane could be, so after his constant advice how I need an engine monitor I bought a UGB 16 and got it installed. One of the features is it can monitor carb temp, WELL, what an eye opener! I had always heard how carb ice could form at temps up to 70df but found it hard to believe, until the cab temp was displayed right in front of my eyes. If I still flew with a carb engine I would definitely have a carb temp monitor. If you think about it an ac unit works similar to a carb. They both evaporate a liquid turning it into a gas. This causes cooling, at any outside air temp it causes cooling. How much cooling? Get a carb temp probe and you will see.

https://octopart.com/jt1e-dc24v-panasonic-49068398 Just a smidge less than 1600$ if you buy solder, solder gun, roll of masking tape, sharpie, wire cutters/strippers, heat shrink, and 300 Gal of 100LL for the test flying. Oh n still have change for a half gallon of milk n a box of chips ahoy for the hangar fairies.

If you call Mooney like I did when I had trouble with flap retraction on my 1996 M20R they may try to sell you a new board with new relays. Said they didn't sell the relays separately and they had a new p/n for the board with relays. The cost? A bit over 1600$ !

IMHO, ive flown short mooneys, 231 mooney, ovation and acclaim. I own a 96 ovation and imho the only step up from the O would be the acclaim and from there a Twin Bo, an aerostar or turbo prop neither of which would be worth the extra maintenance expense for my flying needs. Hard to beat a Mooney

My friend sent me this text Watched what looked like a Lancair 4P get blown off the taxiway in Sebring by a 737 sitting on another taxiway doing engine run up tests in Sebring. No announcement on atis and nobody blocking the taxiway. Tail went up in the air, nose went into the dirt after sliding across the pavement. Plane spun around back and forth and finally came down like this. Pilot hurt foot. Plane totaled most likely. Unbelievable.

Thats another thing that suprised me about mooneys how well they do in a crosswind. Once i did get relatively comfortable landing i found the thing handled pretty good in crosswinds and gusts and such. THE most important thing is getting the approach speed (energy) right and then it does quite nicely, however, the darn thing will still humble me once in awhile and when it does, the best thing to do unless you have lots of runway ahead of you is to go around. I always have it in my mind that a go around, is always a possibility. When i forget that is when i get humbled. So when i am set up for approach i have the trim where i am holding it off. I dont trim for hands off landings because if it is trimmed that way and you do have to go around the nose takes lots of force to hold down. So i have rudder trim in T.O. position, and T.O. position flaps so the forces are not as great. Only if the runway is short do i use full flaps. Also and this is controversial, i use speed breaks on approach and landing so it doesnt float quite as bad and if i need to go around they retract quickly. All in all the machine is not hard to fly or land if things are planned and energy is managed for the prevailing conditons. Great airplanes they are just not as tolerant of sloppy piloting as other makes.

Bear in mind that on a long cross country getting training there and considering it done may not involve enough takeoff and landings. This is where most problems happen with low time intype pilots occur with long body Mooneys. Took me quite afew T.O. & LDZ in my Ovation to feel comfortable with it on shorter fields and crosswinds and what not. That is my opinion.

Ok ......first off, I'm just an average pilot no more no less.....that being said I usually make pretty good landings. Once in awhile "she" still humbles me but many times the winds have been pretty nasty and as long as the approach speeds are not too much above normal considering the gusts and crosswind conditions either the plane or Mr. Average here seems to make some nice landings when the winds are less than friendly. I have gotten compliments on several occasions and I usually say it was the plane, she did it. The funny (odd) thing is most people say Mooneys are not landing friendly. My question is what makes them handle crosswinds so nicely? Low to the ground? Lots of aileron travel? Rudder authority? What is it?

My O has no separater and something i have noticed, not sure if the separator makes a difference but if i fill my oil up to 8 qts it blows it out in a few hours if my flying is short trips with multiple TO & LNDGS. If i fill to 8qts and make several long flights it pretty much stays at 7.5 - 8 qts. Seems like T.O. & LNGDS or doing manuvers like lazy 8s or chandells cause oil to blow out the CC vent tube more so than climbing to cruise and level flight. If i let the oil level stabilize on its own it stays right at 6.5 qts. Compressions were all in the 70's at annual except one cyl which was 68 so i doubt thats a problem. The engine is a 575 hr SFNEW so it is low time. After every flight unless i park on the ramp away from the home base i always open my oil filler/dipstick and leave it up a couple inches and the moisture can escape while the engine is warm this greatly reduces condesate in the CC and oil. I also change my oil every 25 hrs which may be over zealous on my part but oil is cheap compared to other things, doing so gives me a chance to look at everything while the cowling is off and when the oil is drained any moisture or contaminants go bye bye with the old oil. Atleast thats my opinion.

I had a SB issue once caused by carelessness on my part, I always assist with the annual inspection and was checking the strobes, nav and all outside lights. Instead of going around to get in and out of the plane I opened the pilots side vent window so I could reach in and turn the lights on and off and get at the master switch. Well........the mechanic always puts a clean blanket on the wings so I don't get any scratches while its setting in the hangar. That's all fine and good until I reach in the vent window to kill the master and inadvertently hit the SB button on the yoke while the blanket was laying on the wing, and yes on top of the SB. The problem was I retracted the brakes before moving the blankets off the extended SB. when I retracted one of the SB's bound on a piece of blanket and then one side wouldn't fully retract. The mechanic removed the offending SB and cleaned it, after it was reinstalled they seem to work fine and retract fully, so hopefully when the annual is finished they work fine in the air as they do on the ground. Moral of the story, don't lay ANYTHNG on the wing near the SB's and turn the master switch on unless you pull the SB breaker so there is no inadvertent operation of the SB's.

Exactly how I feel, I always trim the rudder right in the TO position, and trim pitch so that it requires holding back to keep the nose up so if I need to go around it doesn't take lots of effort to maintain control. I am one who likes to plan and know ahead of time what to expect. I know ahead of time when I am in the pattern and start trimming in right rudder that I will need to use a bit of left rudder pressure to stay coordinated but I know that ahead of time, same with the pitch trim, I know as I trim it that I may have a bit of control pressure to over come to hold the nose off on landing but I know and am expecting it and am comfortable with it. What I don't want is holding the yoke forward with both hands or a knee and getting a big surprise on a go around. In flight or cruise yes trim all the forces off for hands free flight it's the most efficient and less fatigue for the pilot but on landing I plan for the unexpected go around.

Sure fire way to know its the starter adapter is if the starter "whirres" and the prop has a very delayed movement or moves a bit then stops. If the starter and starter adapter are all in proper working order, then my limited experience is, my Ovation takes low boost for 10 -15 seconds, then I wait for about 1 minute letting fuel vaporize. after the 1 minute or so I engage the starter with throttle position screwed in about 5 or 6 twists, and as soon as it hits I turn on the low boost and leave it on until I hear the engine start to load up just a bit then off with it but keeping my finger ready in case it starts to need an additional squirt which is the case in cold weather. I have been flying an Acclaim for about a month and it seems to want more fuel when cold. It likes high boost for about 10 seconds, set throttle about an inch in, engage starter, soon as it hits the low boost goes on and stays on until the engine warms up. It will get to the point to where it starts to load up a bit and then the low boost must be turned off and momentarily tapped. by the time the engine is warm enough for take off it doesn't need and more low boost help. It is due an annual very soon which at that time SID 97 is going to be done just to make sure fuel system is set up properly.

If the window gasket on the pilots vent window is not glued perfectly the air will suck a piece of it off how do I know don't ask