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Hank

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Everything posted by Hank

  1. Hank
    I plan on 140 knots +/- winds aloft, and 9 gph. I climb at Vy, with an eye on Oil Temp this time of year. Cruise is generally 23/2300 down low, 22/2400 for mid-level flights (an hour or a little longer), and WOT less a hair /2500 when nice and high. I sometimes remember and lean to my Target EGT. For descents, I push for 500 fpm and trim. Every now and then I'll pull throttle back to cruise MP, and push mixture forward to cruise EGT. This generally has me coming down around 170 mphi; I've seen ground speeds range as high as 203 mph on my cell phone GPS, it's very common to be 160+ knots on the Garmin. My longest leg so far is 4:40, and I put in 41 gallons. Right now, I'm too tired to do the math . . . But no, I don't have fuel flow, just a calibrated dipstick and a yoke clock with settable, non-moving red hands; whenever the white minute hand is over the red one, I flip the fuel switch on the floor. Speed mods: guppy mouth closure, 201 windshield, and a 3-bladed air brake. I figure they cancel each other out on everything but climb speed. Happy flying!
  2. Hank
    Hmmm . . . Attention memory cells . . . 1) I think the door takes 12' of wind lace, the baggage door a little less. It is frequently offered for sale in 12' pieces. 2) can't help you, I pulled mine back in 2007 and don't recall anything but a bazillion screws holding the whole interior together. Of course, your J is "modern" and apparently used "improved" manufacturing methods. I've seen photos of Js with the interior removed and the central plenum still up there. Mine had to come out for upgraded coax when converting the 430 to WAAS. Good luck!
  3. Hank
    "in the mail"? I printed mine from the website . . . no waiting.
  4. Hank
    That first picture is one of the prettiest you can ever see! Congrats on reaching this point, and good luck with the rest of your training.
  5. Hank
    The right seat rudders in my '70 C are just like the ones in the left, but without the brakes. Do you have a photo of your baby rudder pedals?
  6. Hank
    No, my C doesn't go high enough or fast enough for it to be a problem.
  7. Hank
    Maybe put two engines together in each side? Then when one takes a time out, the pilot might have a chance to stay under control.
  8. Hank
    Make sure your seatbelt is very tight before your first departure . . . Anthony can fill you in on what the upgrade is like, but he started with more than 244. Hope your face survives the really bug grin!!
  9. Hank
    Yep, Boy Scout for sure. But eye splices are fairly easy and only need to be tied once. I've converted from a taut line hitch to the "traditional" tie down format in the wings, though (loop it around and pull it tight).
  10. Hank
    At least the plane is properly identified . . . . "TEST"!!
  11. Hank
    Those are heavy, bulky to pack around, and frequently tangle themselves up. I bought some ½" rope, put an eye splice in one end. Push the eye through the ring in the ground and run the free end up to the tie down ring. When I'm done, I wrap them up and put em in a stuff bag on the hat rack. Both together weigh much less than one ratchet strap, and are a third the trouble.
  12. Hank
    I'm sure the jack point is fine. It's the tie down part I don't like--you know, where the rope goes through when you're traveling.
  13. Hank
    What we have here, Byron, are ways he can change his flat tire without waiting a week for parts to arrive UPS. I carry real jack points in my hatrack, not the LASAR combo jack points / tie down rings. I don't like putting my tie down ropes over that thin sheet metal edge, the big 1/4" diameter ring is much friendlier to the ropes when I'm away from home and need them. Don't think I'd try the sawhorse trick, even though it is taken directly from a Mooney Maintenance Manual. It's not the first time I've read that. I'll have to check and see what mine says next time I'm at the hangar.
  14. Hank
    Socket head cap screws will work, too. (Those nice bolts you screw in with an Allen wrench.) two of them should run you about 50¢ at a hardware store. Screw 'me in, they'll hold the top of the jack just fine.
  15. Hank
    My favorites are the flightseeing Mooney that stalled and started to spin over a lake, and the idiots in the Bonanza, VFR into IMC in western NC mountains, who knocked out a Nav light and dented their leading edge . . . just a hair's breadth from death.
  16. Hank
    I flew my C into Sun n Fun in 2010. Had a 2nd pilot riding right seat, the extra eyes were great. It wasn't bad at all, just get in line as instructed and follow the plane(s) you're told to follow. Prior to the trip, I printed the NOTAM, stapled it together like a book, and highlighted the parts I would need. It included digital photos of the important navigation landmarks; you've watched the videos, so you should be prepared. Just reread and highlight the NOTAM. For flying, I just treated it like an approach, which are standard at 90 knots (= 105 MPH for my plane). My standard for those is 2300 and enough MP to hold speed, with Flaps to Takeoff. Gear up is about 16-17", add a couple of inches for gear down. Don't expect to talk on the radio, just listen and perform. On short final, I was sidestepped from the taxiway to the runway, and instructed many times, "Mooney, don't land yet, keep going." Just over 5000' down the runway, they let me land . . . Be alert, look for the landmarks, don't run over the guy in front of you who may not keep 90 knots, may not fly at the right altitude, and may miss every turn (like the planes I followed--one turn they missed by a good 1/4 mile!). The fun starts at your parking spot. Everything up until then is work, even if it's not too hard. Have fun, let the other guy take pictures, and post them here!
  17. Hank
    I flew my four-shades-of-red and white Mooney this morning, doing what was supposed to have been practice approaches. Instead, I logged 0.9 Actual doing two approaches. Freedom! My (planned but not needed) safety pilot got a little queasy on the 270° left procedure turn entering the last approach. Since it is July, I started early and wore my bamboo shirt and socks, hoping to not get too sweaty. It was warm at 3000 msl, even inside the clouds. Left the house at 0810, not too steamy on my return for lunch, but that is changing rapidly. Should top out around 100° again.
  18. Hank
    Sounds like you have your priorities straight, Tom. Many people could gain real benefit in their lives from your obviously long,deep thinking in the hospital. Congratulations in reaching the point where you can now finish it up and bring her to life. Just be careful when you start flying her . . . She's a beast!
  19. Hank
    I've never noticed fuel dripping on my nose wheel, even when I had trouble starting; that's why we overhauled the carb, my mech thought it needed to drip out when I tried to flood it on purpose. When temps are near freezing, I preheat. When I travel in cold weather, I have an extension cord that I carry with me, 100' long, specially made to weigh about a third less than normal. Generally takes about an hour, but I use it overnight whenever possible. Makes those cold winter starts almost effortless.
  20. Hank
    I climb WOT/2700, but when I level off, I deuce throttle: Low level (ie, 3000 msl burger run), 23"/2300 mid-level (~4500-6500/7000 msl), generally 22"/2400 High cruise (where Owners Manual shows WOT <75%), I pull the throttle enough to make the MP needle move, and leave it there, then lean away. It's surprising sometimes how much I have to move the throttle to make the MP needle twitch, I swear it's sometimes a third of the way back. I don't aim to reduce MP by a certain amount, I stop the throttle as soon as the needle starts to move. This keeps me in the <75% power range, and I'm pretty much right on 9 gph. If I fly high at peak, I'll burn slightly less. The reasons to pull the throttle back are to shut off the enrichment circuit and to cock the throttle plate in the carb and create turbulence, which atomizes the fuel better and hopefully helps to even up the distribution between cylinders.
  21. Hank
    It could also have been engine auto roughness, those noises you only hear at night and/or over water.
  22. Hank
    Sweeeeett!!
  23. Hank
    P.S.--as I descend, I periodically reduce throttle and richenot mixture to maintain the cruise values of MPH and EGT. Otherwise, both will rise to undesirable values.
  24. Hank
    I always descend at cruise power in my C, then back off the throttle to slow down for the pattern. It's not uncommon to get some burbling on final, especially when I go to idle for the last couple of hundred feet. I've always thought of it as the "blub blub blub" sound of lots of power waiting to be unleashed. Unless yours is doing something else? I've never felt any pulsating, just the blubber and burble of the engine at or near idle power. Kind of like a hot rod, but with much less power. More speed, though!
  25. Hank
    If it's a bad tube, and the tire has good thread left, just replace the tube (use lots of baby powder on it). A new Michelin Air Stop tube will rarely require adding air, except when summer first heats up and again when it cools off. It will cost about the same as a tire . . . But I love mine! Whenever I replace a tire, I out in a new Air Stop tube (since 6/07, that's two nose tires and one pair of mains; my logbook shows 671.5 hours in my Mooney).
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