PT20J

When I asked Jimmy Garrison, he said there was no resale premium for an IO-390. I bought a Lycoming factory rebuilt IO-360-A3B6 which is on the type certificate (so it doesn't require an STC) and is less expensive. The most important improvement is the roller lifters which probably negate camshaft spalling and Lycoming puts that in every new and rebuilt engine nowadays so you don't have to get the IO-390 for that. Keep in mind that camshaft spalling hits your pocketbook but the engine will still run pretty well with a chewed up camshaft so it's not so much of a reliability issue. Also, keep in mind that if that engine has flown regularly and not been kept in a region of high humidity, it may be just fine. In fact, it might be the most reliable it's ever been, right now. If it has been serviced with Camguard, that may be a plus. If it has been serviced with Aeroshell 15W-50 that may be a minus. Skip

Looking through the Mooney IPC and Service Manual, it seems that Mooney used several different gauge clusters and transducers over the years. The early models used temperature and pressure transducers that were a simple variable resistance to ground type. Later models used more accurate wheatstone bridge type transducers, and some apparently required external amplifiers. I've never had to delve into the internals of the cluster gauges and I don't know what your setup is. Perhaps @M20Doc might have further details. I'd still bet it's something within the cluster since you had issues with multiple gauges. It's possible there is a regulated voltage reference or something inside, but it's hard to tell since Mooney doesn't show any details of the internals. But if you take it apart and something blew enough to make a stink it will probably have left evidence behind. Skip

Two installed and operable batteries are required per the limitations section of the AFM shown above for any of the kinds of operation specified. Per FAR 23.2620, the limitations section is the only section of the AFM requiring FAA approval. Note that there is a change bar for the battery entry, so this limitation may be different in some AFMs. The Limitations in the AFM of current revision for your aircraft is legally binding. Skip

When multiple gauges act up, look for something they all have in common. Pressure gauges read zero when the sender wire is grounded; temperature gauges read full scale when the sender wire is grounded. So, I’d look for some place where multiple wires could be shorted to ground at the same time. I’d start inside the cluster gauge unit since it’s easy to get at. The heat from the cabin heater is not hot enough to damage the teflon-insulated wiring. If the heater hasn’t been used for a long time, I have had a smell come from it for a short time when first turned on - probably just dust in the ducts heating up. But it should dissipate quickly. It’s always a good idea to check the engine compartment for any signs of trouble whenever anything goes amiss with any sender located there - flammable fluids and hot gasses abound there. Skip

From the BOOST website: Pocket Size Boost Oxygen canisters contain over 2 liters of Aviator’s Breathing Oxygen. This equates to approximately 40 seconds of continuous oxygen flow. People report enjoying anywhere between 15-40 inhalations of varying length. Medium Boost Oxygen canisters contain 5 liters of Aviator’s Breathing Oxygen, which is up to 100 one-second inhalations. Large Boost Oxygen canisters contain 10 liters of Aviator’s Breathing Oxygen, which equates to over 200 seconds of continuous oxygen flow, or over 200 one-second inhalations. From www.aqua-calc.com, a liter of oxygen weighs 0.05 ounces. Skip

You might try looking through the 337s and logbooks to see what equipment has been removed to get a clue. My ‘94 J has a light (it’s amber on mine) in the same location labeled GPS ACTIVE. I think it was part of the original factory KLN 90 installation which was removed and replaced with a GNS 430W at the same time the Aspen PFD was added by the previous owner. Since the Aspen annunciates the nav source, any requirement for a separate indicator is eliminated Skip

Does anyone actually use a compass anymore? Years ago, my HSI gyro failed on a MVFR flight in the LA area. I had to fly from Van Nuys to Chino on the compass with 3 sm viz. surrounded by busy airspace. Not that hard, but it did make me wish fo a vertical card compass which I now have. I took the plane to a compass rose and checked both the Aspen and the compass and they were within 2-3 degrees of each other on all 12 points, but in the air I sometimes see 5-6 degrees difference between the two. IIRC Douglas apparently thought so little of the requirement for a magnetic compass on the DC-9 that they installed it behind the right pilot seat and it could only be viewed through a mirror on the glareshield. Skip

Another work around you might try until you get it checked out is to run the mains 5 psi low. The slight extra rolling friction dampens out the yawing moment. Skip

I always lower the car onto jack stands when I’m crawling under it. Since the plane is tall enough not to crush me, I just let the jack support it until I get the wheel off and the I put some wood blocks under the axel. I only use this method to lift one wheel at a time. Skip

Ive had good success with Carbon-X.

With just me in the airplane I set trim like this. With a further aft CG, I set it more nose down. With trim set this way and takeoff flaps, a steady 5 lb. (approx.) pull on the yoke during the takeoff roll will cause the nose wheel to lift and the plane to fly off when it's ready. After it rotates about 5 degrees, (ten degrees on the AI since the plane sits about 5 degrees nose up on the ground) releasing the pressure stops the rotation and the airplane is usually pretty well in trim until flap retraction. With the trim set this way, the gap is 4.5": Also, with takeoff trim, the leading edge of the fin is tilted 1-deg. aft of vertical and the bungees hold the elevator in trail: For reference: Full nose up trim gives a gap of 5-1/4", the fin is tilted forward 1-deg., and the bungees hold the elevator trailing edge up 10-deg. Full nose down trim gives a gap of 3-1/2", the fin is tilted aft 5-deg., and the bungees hold the elevator trailing edge down 10-deg. These measurements were made with the airplane sitting on the gear. The nose was 4-deg up in this condition measured at the leveling screws. As I'm sure you are aware, the trim indicator cable can be adjusted independently of the trim jackscrew position, so it may or may not be set correctly. The important thing is that the elevator should be in trail with the stabilizer in the takeoff trim setting. Skip

The problem with the electric speed brakes is that the worm and mating gear are exposed to any water coming in through the top of the wing and the grease can wash out. It's not a bad idea to remove them for inspection, but if you don't want to take out the screws from the top (if for instance you've got new paint and don't want to mess with it), I found it possible to grease them in place from below with a long Q-tip when in the up position. Don't overdo it -- you don't want grease to find it's way into the clutch. Skip

It may be highly refined, but in a small space it stinks like all get out. I just left the doors open snd it did eventually go away.

Best way to get some matching touch up paint is to take an inspection panel to an auto paint supply store and have them color match a pint of 1K enamel. For lighter colors like white and tan, a computer color match comes really close. If you want to get a dark color matched, it's best to give them a day or two to hand match it. You can touch up the rivet heads with a small brush. The 1K paint isn't as hard as 2K (paint + hardener) but you don't have to mix it and for small touch ups it's fine unless you are going to wax and power buff it a lot. Skip

When Jacques Esculier was CEO, he got the factory ISO 9000 certified and then aggressively sought contracts with Boeing and others aerospace companies to manufacture components at competitive prices (due largely to low West Texas labor rates), and that got the company through one dry spell in airplane sales. I don't know if Mooney still does that or not, but I thought it was a pretty good idea back when.

Richard Collins often observed that the cost of maintaining an airplane is more related to the cost of a new airplane than the airplane's value. Cost to maintain is the killer of "cheap" complex aircraft. Ever notice how cheap light twins are to buy? It could be worse, you could have a V-tail Bonanza with a damaged magnesium ruddervator. Skip

The inboard and outboard senders are floats attached to rheostats that are wired in series. If the outboard sender has a bad spot on on the rheostat near the full position, it might cause this when you filled the tank. Try running off that tank and see if it comes back alive when the fuel level drops. Skip

Maybe you guys should try one of these: https://www.classicnation.com/list-of-the-most-popular-classic-car-forums/ I’m still trying to find the best option for replacing door seals.

Bruce’s has pictures of their product at aircraftcovers.com. Bruce’s products and customer service are top notch. They modified a cover for me that was purchased by the previous owner to accommodate an added 406 ELT antenna at no charge. Skip

I called Brown Aircraft Supply and they confirmed that BA-189-139 has been superseded by T-9088.

Landing is really about energy management. Engine thrust and airspeed are two forms of energy that you have control over. To fly a constant descent angle to the runway at a constant airspeed (neglecting for the moment destabilizing atmospheric forces such as wind shear and thermals) you need a constant power setting. Entering ground effect tilts the lift vector forward and increases lift and reduces induced drag. But, flaring increases angle of attack which increases induced drag. It also increases lift, but the airspeed is decreasing which decreases lift so if you get the flare right, one effect will counteract the other. So as you flare, lift is constant, drag is increasing, and the airspeed is decreasing. Reducing power to idle at this point hurries up the process and touchdown happens soon afterwards. Notice how an airliner lands next time you are unfortunate enough to be crammed in the back of one. For a jet, pretty much every landing is a short field landing. If you are floating a lot, you are too fast. The problem with reducing power at 100 feet is that reducing power causes pitch down moment that you have to counteract with elevator which complicates the whole process by destabilizing the approach. The only reason to do this is having too much energy (speed + power) so you reduce the form of energy most readily controllable (power). Try flying the final slower with constant power (varied only to compensate for wind shear or thermals) and doing a coordinated flare and power reduction and see if it doesn’t work for you. There’s nothing magic about it - it’s just physics. Cheers, Skip

I agree with both these comments. The greater sensitivity to ground effect accounts for the challenge in Mooney landings. My original point was that there is nothing about a Mooney that requires special techniques. But, as pointed out in these two posts, airspeed control is critical to good landings.

After 9/11, the FAA wanted to require a photo on pilot certificates. AOPA and others successfully argued that possessing a government issued photo ID would be be a simpler way of achieving the same goal. Unless the reg gets changed, there should be no tie-in with RealID which is a TSA issue not an FAA issue.

Don’t forget to use a new gasket (crush washer) when you reinstall it. Split side toward engine.

The tail tie down is ahead of the empennage. Still, Mooney SIM20-114 recommends against using the tail tie down and instead suggests lifting the engine with a hoist. That same SI also says not to fly with the wing tie down rings installed