PT20J

If you go to a Garmin dealer, they should have full size color cutouts of the G5 and you can take one to your airplane and hold it up to the panel.

If you are just touching up chips, it’s better to just fill in the chip with primer and a tiny artist brush. There are youtube videos showing how professional detailers do this. This is what we did at the museum. Done correctly, the touchups are invisible. If you sand down an area and spray it, you have to match both color and gloss. Color is easy, but gloss can be difficult if the original paint is old. Also, you have to think about how long you want it to last and how much time the airplane spends outside. The only way to blend single stage polyurethane is mechanically using abrasives as you describe. The problem is that the paints have a minimum film thickness so the blended edge will eventually start deteriorate and become visible. The safest thing is to mask off and paint an entire panel. Skip

Knowing what features are available in a particular Garmin installation can be difficult to discern. I have found that the best source of information is often the AFMS because it is an FAA approved document. In my experience, Garmin's Pilot's Guides vary in clarity and sometimes contain errors. In addition, they describe the operation of a unit, but when multiple unites are combined in a system, the functionality of each unit can change. There are also sometimes installation options that are described in the installation manuals only available to dealers. One thing to check here would be that the CDI key is enabled and appears on the Map screen. I didn't see a mention of auto switching in the GI 275 AFMS, but that makes sense since I believe it is the GTN that does the switching.

That would be a smart move for Mooney. It would allow them to sell the STC in lieu of having to certify any future upgrades to the G1000 systems.

Good points, Don. I haven't experimented with it a lot, but I did notice a few things. 1. I think the best way to use it is to push the button at the first sign of unexpected engine failure and let the autopilot fly the airplane while going through emergency procedures. 2. If you pull the engine back to idle at cruise in a M20J, you will end up solidly in the yellow arc on the tach as it slows to best glide speed which is a great reminder to pull the prop back. 3. Smart Glide uses whatever best glide speed was programmed into it during installation. Most commonly the speed is set for max gross weight. The glide ratio doesn't change with weight, but the best glide speed does. So, if you are at a different weight than the speed set in Smart Glide, you should adjust the speed with the IAS thumbwheel on the GFC 500 to get maximum range. 4. With a G3X, the emergency page is available on the PFD as well as on the GTN. However, the Smart Glide range ring is only available on the GTN. The Smart Glide range ring differs from the normal glide range ring in that Smart Glide updates the range ring based on current measured glide performance. Currently, this is not available on the G3X and the G3X removes the glide range ring on it's map during Smart Glide. EDIT 5. Unless you are pretty high, and/or in an area with a lot of airports, there will not be an airport within glide range, so the best it can do is fly straight and level at best glide speed -- you're still going to have to turn it off and find a place to set down after you run your checklists. 6. This is definitely something you want to practice until the flow becomes second nature. There is a lot going on and you don't want to experience it the first time during an actual emergency. Skip

From the GTN Xi AFMS. Appears to only work with GFC 500/600.

It may just be semantics, but the button on the System -Setup page is actually called ILS CDI Capture and it should toggle between Manual Selection and Auto Switch.

I was worried about that, so I discussed it with my installer beforehand. I suggested he run the trim all the way to the down limit before disconnecting and then just not rotate the jack screw while it was disconnected though he could rotate the rest of the trim system as much as necessary for the installation making sure to run it all the way down again before reconnecting to the jack screw. He said that worked great and my trim was fine after the installation.

After some more research, I found that the echo was not caused by Smart Glide being enabled in the G3X. The GTN Xi installation manual calls for the GTN audio out to be connected to an unswitched input on the audio panel. However, the G3X installation manual calls for the GTN audio output to be disconnected from the audio panel. Having both connected was the cause of the echo. Skip

I don’t think so. Both the Camloc and Skybolt cataligs show split washers 0.31 diameter. The stud is 0.25, so that’s a pretty big hole. The flange is only 0.39 diameter. You might want to use the Skybolt 2800s with the .50 flange.

The reason I don't think adjusting gains is the solution is that the vast majority of these installations work well using the certified gain settings. Some clearly have problems. So something is different. The hardware, software and settings are the same so that means that either there is an installation error, a defective servo, or something different about the airframe. Adjusting gains might just mask the real issue. I would systematically eliminate each possibility. Appendix A of the G3X Experimental Installation Manual https://static.garmin.com/pumac/190-01115-01_aq.pdf has the flight test procedure for setting the gains. I am NOT advocating messing with the gains, but flying the specified test profiles while recording the data might give insights to the engineers into what's going on. Skip

Single landing light version

The number embossed on the head designates the length. Often, lengths vary because the fiberglass cowling thickness isn’t uniform. The C clips for the 2700 (small) are a separate part number. Some omit them so that the Camlocs can be removed making it easier to install and remove the top cowling. You need a special pliers for the 4002 (large) Camlocs. If you want to order the Skybolt parts, you can get their catalog on line at www.skybolt.com. Spruce carries both. The Skybolt 2800 is the wide flange.

I have seen posts speculating that, but I have not seen a post that had any specifics of a gain setting change that actually made a difference. But, I probably haven’t seen every post on the subject and I would be interested if you can point to the ones you have seen. The gain settings would have been determined as part of the certification process.

Sound like the GI 275 transducer is measuring the pump pressure rather than the pressure after the oil relief valve.

Is it a digital tach? If not, I would check the tach accuracy first before adjusting anything. Here's the McCauley procedure: General Calibration Procedures Following Installation of McCauley Constant Speed Governors A. Perform Static Run-up: Lock aircraft brakes. Place cockpit propeller RPM lever in high RPM (takeoff) position. Advance throttle slowly to maximum permitted engine manifold pressure limits. Record propeller RPM. If local wind conditions are over 5 knots, repeat check with aircraft pointed in opposite direction and average the two numbers. As a general rule, propeller RPM should be 25-100 RPM below redline limit during the above check. B. Perform Flight Test: During takeoff acceleration, record maximum propeller RPM. When sufficient altitude is reached, level out aircraft, leaving propeller control in full RPM position. Maintain this setting for three (3) to five (5) minutes while monitoring propeller RPM. Following this check, two conditions may exist which require adjustment: 1) If propeller RPM is exceeding redline limit, reduce it to redline using propeller control. Leaving propeller at this redline RPM setting, land aircraft and shutdown. Remove cowling and note position of control arm on governor. Adjust governor high RPM screw clockwise so it just touches stop on governor control arm; this will ensure that the correct arm position for governor redline RPM setting cannot be exceeded. 2) If propeller RPM is below redline limit with max RPM setting on the propeller cockpit control, note RPM and land. Remove engine cowling and adjust the governor high RPM screw counterclockwise to increase RPM. Note that one full screw turn will cause an increase of approximately 25 RPM. Perform another test flight to confirm adjustments were sufficient. General Facts About McCauley Governors Static Run-Up - What is Normal? There has been some confusion in the field concerning propeller low blade angle setting, the governor setting and how it relates to static run-up and take-off RPM. As a general rule, engine redline RPM cannot be reached during a full power static run-up. Contrary to popular belief, the governor is not controlling the propeller at this time, the propeller is against its low pitch stop. Attempting to increase propeller static run-up RPM by adjusting the governor high RPM screw will have no effect and will probably result in a propeller overspeed during the take-off roll. On a single engine aircraft several considerations determine both the low and high blade angle settings. Normally 25 to 100 RPM below rated take-off RPM is desirable and acceptable during a static run-up. McCauley's practice is to set the low blade angle so that rated take-off RPM is not reached until the aircraft has reached some significant groundspeed during roll out. At this time, and only this time, the propeller is controlled by the governor. There are two advantages to this practice. First, the maximum static RPM can be used as a check on developed horsepower as with a fixed pitch propeller. Any loss of maximum power over time is readily apparent during a preflight check. Second, if the propeller remains in a flat pitch after take-off due to some malfunction, the higher angle low pitch setting will permit more thrust to be developed to fly the aircraft without overspeeding the engine.

I have posted about this before and I have sent information to Trek. The pitch control/trim system changed between the J and K models. M20Js and before had trim assist bungees which are elevator centering springs with the center point adjustable depending on the trim setting. M20Ks and later had a elevator bob weight and a down spring that is adjustable with trim setting. I don't know how this might affect the autopilot, but there is a difference. Starting with mid M20Js and continued on subsequent models, the control shaft bearing at the control panel is an eyeball and cup assembly machined from Nylatron. The M20J service manual specifies lubrication with Triflow. Later model service manuals say to keep it dry. The problem with lubrication is that the lubricant attracts dust and that forms an abrasive and the whole assembly gets sticky. It is easy to replace the eyeballs when the panel is apart during an upgrade and rather arduous to replace them when the panel is assembled. I had mine replaced when I upgraded the panel on an airplane that only had 1200 hours on it. I felt the motion of the new and old eyeballs and the old ones were considerably stiffer. This is important because the control shaft does not move linearly back and forth, but rather moves in an arc, and so sticky eyeballs will cause stiction in the control system. Sometimes lubricating the control shafts helps some because when the eyeball sticks it slightly binds the shaft. But, I would use silicone spray and wipe it off so that no oily film is left behind. Lastly, in my M20J, I noted that the GFC 500 pitch control dynamics in IAS is extremely sensitive to bridle cable tension. The Garmin turnbuckle uses safety clips so the adjustment is limited to half turns of the barrel. In my airplane, half a turn went from the low end of the spec to the high end of the spec. and made a noticeable improvement in the IAS mode. I would recheck cable tensions after a year because the new cables may stretch some. So, in summary, my M20J GFC 500 performs well, but I replaced the control shaft eyeballs and had the cable tension tightened to the max. Skip

Ah, missed that.

My fluid was replaced by the previous owner about 6 years ago. I think the heat from the brakes is what causes the 5606 fluid to deteriorate. Every year I open the bleeders and let about half a cup drain out of each topping off the reservoir between draining each caliper and after I'm done and it seems to keep the fluid from thickening.

Confused about the GTN revision level: 20.30 is the latest. https://support.garmin.com/en-US/aviation/faq/5ZqKzpi6Ux4LsCc97VQds8

Any will work -- they are all very similar chemically. My favorite is odorless mineral spirits because it doesn't stink.

I don't disagree. My point was simply that knowing that this is an area of emphasis for the FAA, it would seem prudent to be circumspect regarding the process and documentation. I know nothing about the parts that are the subject of the present discussion, and have no opinion one way or the other. But, I have seen plenty of threads where the some seemed to push the limits considerably. The off shore company making cheap landing gear biscuits comes to mind. On the other hand, McFarlane seems very good at making both PMA parts and OPP without running afoul of the rules, so it must be possible. Skip

Counterfeit parts is an issue that the FAA has been working on for years. Some accidents have been traced to unairworthy counterfeit parts. I think that the FAA is hyper alert to anyone making airplane parts that does not follow one of the approval routes. Clearly OPP is an area where abuse would be easy. Maybe the FAA is being overzealous. But, I think it is an area where all the i's and t's need to be carefully crossed.

Sorry about that -- I looked at the wrong section of the Comant catalog. (Always be wary of advice from the Internet ). https://www.cobhamaerospacecommunications.com/media/2204897/cobham_comant_2021_catalog.pdf You undoubtably have a CI101, and it is TSO'd to C74c, so it is good. But, since you want to replace it, any of the CI 105's are TSO'd. The primary difference between the different dash numbers is mounting method and connector type. A straight CI 105 (no dash) has two hole stud mounting with a BNC connector and should be fine. The antenna is glossy white but they also make a -16 version that is unpainted white plastic to match the finish of a Bendix-King KA60 if you prefer that. I have the KA60 on my airplane and find that it gets dirty on the belly from exhaust and oil and I would suggest the gloss version. Skip

You don't need it for normal operations. But the question is: How will you navigate if the HSI fails?