PT20J

It's been a long time since I flew a KAP/KFC 200, but I believe the logic is the same as the 150 and it will not engage with the trim off. @Jake@BevanAviation will know for sure. Skip

Maximum range and maximum glide distance both occur at the angle of attack for [CL/CD]max. This angle of attack will occur at an airspeed that varies with weight. So, at the same weight, maximum glide distance and maximum range occur at the same speed. In either case, you are getting the maximum distance travelled with the energy available. In the case of glide, the energy available is the potential energy of altitude, and in the case of cruise, the energy available is the chemical energy of the fuel on board. Carson speed is defined as the speed for minimum fuel flow per unit of velocity and mathematically is the speed for [CL1/2/CD]max. This turns out to be 1.32 best glide speed. For derivations, see Anderson, John D., Aircraft Performance and Design, Chapter 5. Skip

I’d be really smart if I hadn’t forgotten so much stuff I used to know. I haven’t shot a VOR non-overlay approach for years. Got an IPC yesterday (good to do every so often, and it keeps the insurance company happy). Instructor wanted to do a partial panel (no G3X), hand flown, VOR-A with a circle to land. Not hard with a GTN, a G5 and a flight director. I sort of recalled something about needing to monitor the navaid, but then I got to thinking that maybe the GTN would auto switch to VLOC like it does for an ILS. It doesn’t. I felt kind of stupid, but at least I won’t make that mistake again. Skip

Trim is usually part of the autopilot. Which autopilot do you have? Does the trim work with the autopilot but just not when you use the switches, or does it not work at all? Did you check for a tripped breaker?

If the shop is good, there is a lot to be said for having one local do the work. If there are any issues, you don't want to fly hundreds of miles to get it fixed. And, most shops don't really enjoy fixing problems on other's installations and you probably won't get priority attention from a different shop unless the issue is due to a Garmin service bulletin.

If the airspeed safety switch fails, the red bypass button should illuminate and pressing and holding it will bypass the safety switch and allow the gear to retract. I've owned a 1978 and a 1994 M20J. Both had a VEP 654 pressure switch described in this article https://www.knr-inc.com/shop-talk-articles.html?view=article&id=93&catid=25. The 1978 had the switch mounted to the back of the airspeed indicator, and the 1994 has it mounted on a bracket near, but not directly attached to, the airspeed indicator. The switch has two pneumatic connections: one for pitot and one for static. When doing the "pitot/static" tests, the test set is connected to both the pitot and static systems. It is necessary keep the pitot/static pressure differential within limits or it is possible to damage the airspeed indicator and rupture diaphragm in the airspeed safety switch. The switch has two microswitches and only one is used for the gear system. The other is available to use for a flight time Hobbs. If the unit isn't damaged but the microswitch has failed, you can try using the second switch for the gear system. But, if this happened after installation of the new system and recertification, then it seems likely that the shop damaged the switch. Skip

ForeFlight Performance Plus plan includes profiles for a large number of airplanes. If you don’t have that you have to manually enter the data - I don’t think there is any way to import/export.

Two possibilities: 1) if it is a new problem, then it is possible that the radio transmitter has an issue that requires repair. 2) If it has always been that way, it is possible that the mic gain needs to be increased. Anyway, an avionics shop can figure out what needs to be done to fix it. Skip

According the the IPC, the trim wheel brake was deleted in M20Js after S/N 24-0854. Mine doesn't have it and the trim doesn't change in turbulence. Maybe @M20Doc knows more about the history of the brake? Skip

My M20J with original factory sealant fills to full capacity rapidly and stays there. I often fill it after a flight and when I come back to the hangar a day or so later, it's still full.

On mine, if I do that it will immediately climb back up again. It may vary by servo. The AvStars seem to have very good sealing on the mixture valve in idle cutoff. Someone even reported having it build enough pressure to unseat the mixture shaft enough to disconnect the mixture control from the valve (the valve assembly is held together by pressure from a coil spring around the mixture shaft inside the servo).

Pipe threads are a pain to get sealed properly. My IA put me on to Armite LP-250 (McMaster-Carr carries it in small tubes but I had to call them because online they only had large cans of it). It's ground up lead in a solvent and it doesn't leak, spall or seize. Arminte also has a non-lead version approved by Boeing but I haven't tried it. Skip

Makes no sense. Didn't the dealer check it after installing? They must have screwed something up during the installation.

That's not the same part number, though. Mooney used a P6-24014. Otto doesn't list the Mooney part in their current catalog. I would call them and see if there is a cross reference. https://www.otto-controls.com/-/media/products/electromechanical-switches/limitswitches/p6sealedlimitswitchesmilprf8805/p6-sealed-limit-switches-catalog-page.ashx

FWIW, I put in the G3X 10" and a GTN 650Xi. The 750 takes up so much space that you either have to remote some avionics or have a second radio stack and I wanted to avoid both. I have a yoke mount for an iPad mini running ForeFlight and a MCI True Blue USB charging cube mounted behind the panel with a cable running beneath the yoke and I use it for the approach plates because it has a larger screen than the G3X. I usually fly with the the G3X set split screen with the map page displayed and the GTN on either the traffic page or the flight plan page. Skip

Sure, Tom. It was an Omega Engineering PS-8E, 1/8" NPT, 5,000 psi max., for water and light oil. www.omega.com. Skip

+1 for @Alan Fox Search the part number online. Call an Otto distributer. Call other Mooney Service Centers

According to the specs, it’s sealed.

Are you talking about the unit in the tail that drives the jackscrew, or the unit under the cockpit connected to the trim wheel by a chain?

Me too. I never noticed it with the factory gauges, but did when I installed the G3X with EIS. The engine and plumbing were unchanged, but the transducer is different. I added a snubber which improved it at lower altitudes, but at higher altitudes I can see it still wander. I think it might be heat causing vapor in the lines. The fuel pressure continually increases to an off scale reading after shut down with the mixture in ICO due to heat soaking.

I think the bare minimum is the equipment required by Part 91, a WAAS GPS, and ADS-B out. But, you'll find it very challenging to fly IFR with GPS in busy airspace without an autopilot capable of GPSS and altitude hold. Steam gauges require more disciplined scanning than glass displays and the IFR GPS requires a lot of data entry. Skip

That sounds good looking at the panel from the pilot's side, but I would discuss this with an installer familiar with Mooneys. The Mooney radio stack is built up on rails and the trays for each unit are riveted to the rails and then the rails are riveted into the structure. It's a whole lot easier to remove everything and build the new radio stack on the bench including the cable harnesses and then install the stack and connect the wiring to the other panel units.

Sumping is also a good way to note the beginning of sealant deterioration.

Besides what @Ragsf15e pointed out, you’d have to check the STC. Garmin probably requires that the G5 be the primary display and it might have to be located where you want to put the Aspen.

My POH says to check the gascolator drain for leaking during the walk around and then drain it later after entering the cockpit. I've never been comfortable with that because it seems more likely to leak if something gets caught in the drain during draining. So, if the airplane has been outside in the rain, I drain the sumps first and then drain the gascolator and then get out to make sure it's not leaking. If it's been in the hangar, I drain the gascolator first and then the sumps. I've never seen any appreciable water in the tanks from condensation and you have to get a LOT of water in the tanks to reach the level of the pickups where one might draw water from the tanks into the lines by draining the gascolator first. I generally start up on the lowest tank and switch to the fullest tank during taxi to ensure that both tanks will feed the engine. And, at annual I put a hose on the fuel tank vents and blow air from my lungs (to avoid over pressurizing) while spraying soapy water on the caps to make sure that the o-rings are good (especially the center shaft o-ring where water can collect). I also lube the big o-rings with petroleum jelly and the shaft with Tri-Flow every oil change. But, that's just me. Skip