PT20J

+1 on going to a auto paint store. The stuff you want is called reducer. As stated above, polyurethanes are 2K (two component) systems that should be mixed with a catalyst. They will work without the catalyst, but they take longer to dry and don't have nearly the durability as when catalyzed. Once mixed with a catalyst the paint has to be used right away.

Is that a 6AU6A?

EXACTLY

That’s a different thing. But, I wouldn’t do that. I discussed this with controllers and they told me they consider lost communications an emergency since they don’t know your status, and they just get everyone out of the way of anywhere you might reasonably go.

I believe @MisfitSELF was only trying to install the flush gear doors which he bought somewhere.

I just had a MaxPulse installed on my recognition lights. It is a lot smaller and a LOT less expensive than the Pulselite. My shop has installed several MaxPulses and reported no problems. It has lots of modes, so you can choose what suits you best. I just leave it on the fastest alternating setting and it is wired to the original breaker switch to turn it on and off. Whelen is about to start shipping the LED replacements for the recognition light bulbs according to @OSUAV8TER. Skip

Loose tension would look to the servo system like lost motion in the control system which is difficult to compensate because the system is essentially open loop around the trim point. I had mine checked because during annual inspection it just felt loose to me. Perhaps the tension spec is too low.

Can you confirm your airplane model is an M20J? (The J was the last model with trim bungees; subsequent models had a bobweight and variable down spring. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.) Which modes does it oscillate in: PIT, ALT, VS, IAS? Thanks, Skip

I don’t think anyone makes those anymore. I push small nails through the holes from the screw side and tape the heads in place with small pieces of duct tape. Then I place the Tinnermans over the nails on the other side and tape down with aluminum tape. Then I remove the nails and install the screws and the Tinnerman’s are held in place with the aluminum tape.

I don't know. It's pretty difficult to diagnose this from one snapshot. All that seems really clear is that cylinders 1 and 3 were not making much power for about 3 minutes after start. The signature does not look like an ignition problem since if both plugs weren't firing they wouldn't make any heat at all and if only one plug in each cylinder was firing it should run better with probably higher EGTs. That leaves air or fuel. Cylinders 1 and 3 are the rear cylinders on a Continental engine, so it might be good to look for anything common to them. Did you have the mixture full rich or leaned? I have seen cylinders cut out when leaned excessively and cold. It never hurts to do the simple stuff first: clean injectors and spark plugs, look for induction leaks (these often screw up idle but don't much affect higher powers). If it's not anything simple, that leaves the valve train. It would seem strange for two valves to stick and it doesn't seem common on Continentals, but I did have a friend that had a stuck valve on an O-300 powered C-172, so it does happen. Skip

I'd ask them why they don't have to degauss the entire aluminum airplane Clarence is right, aluminum is not ferromagnetic.

If it’s a lifter, can you hear the clatter at idle?

Do you have a copy of the STC and AML? I would think that a lot of IAs would sign a 337 with that documentation without the permission letter. The letter, while required, is often perfunctory. Many STC holders just publish a blanket form letter that's not specific to any aircraft. I have a number of STCs from previous owners in my airplane file and I don't have copies of the permission letters for some of them. Owners that don't understand record keeping don't keep a lot of documentation that they should because they think the logbooks are all that is required. No one inspecting my airplane has ever asked me for the permission letters for the STCs installed. Now, if you don't have a copy of the STC and AML, that's a different problem because the IA will not have any way to ascertain that the mod was approved for your make and model. Skip

That's not right. I would trace the connections and compare the the drawings that Clarence posted.

That's going to be dependent on the nature of the sticking. A valve beginning to stick may not stick every cycle, and it may be binding just enough that the spring closes it more slowly. That's why the EGT isn't closer to zero. So, the sticking can get better or worse with rpm. It's when it finally sticks hard that it can cause damage.

Maybe you need to hire a private investigator to track him down.

Which begs the question: Who's airplanes did you put those hoses on?

I bought the AV-20-S as a tie breaker in case the G3X and G5 ever don't agree, and it's good for that. I think that the AV-30 is a better instrument, but I don't know for sure. Hopefully others will be along with comments from actual experience. If I only flew the airplane VFR, I frankly wouldn't care much. But, if I flew it IFR, I would want something that I felt comfortable betting my life on and would choose dual G5s. The GI 275s are newer and nicer, but with a lot of bells and whistles they have lower battery life and I like the G5's battery life better. Either option will drive the GFC 500 if the current autopilot becomes unmaintainable and you need to upgrade it. Skip

The first thing to do is to make sure that the tach is accurate. Then, if it doesn't go over redline when static, it's unlikely the stops are set incorrectly. It is normal for the prop to speed up as the airspeed increases during the takeoff roll, but the governor should kick in and prevent it from doing this if it is set correctly.

3 minutes rough at 40 deg F doesn't sound normal to me.

General Calibration Procedures Following Installation of McCauley Constant Speed Governors A. Perform Static Run-up: Lock aircraft brakes. Place cockpit propeller RPM lever in high RPM (takeoff) position. Advance throttle slowly to maximum permitted engine manifold pressure limits. Record propeller RPM. If local wind conditions are over 5 knots, repeat check with aircraft pointed in opposite direction and average the two numbers. As a general rule, propeller RPM should be 25-100 RPM below redline limit during the above check. B. Perform Flight Test: During takeoff acceleration, record maximum propeller RPM. When sufficient altitude is reached, level out aircraft, leaving propeller control in full RPM position. Maintain this setting for three (3) to five (5) minutes while monitoring propeller RPM. Following this check, two conditions may exist which require adjustment: 1) If propeller RPM is exceeding redline limit, reduce it to redline using propeller control. Leaving propeller at this redline RPM setting, land aircraft and shutdown. Remove cowling and note position of control arm on governor. Adjust governor high RPM screw clockwise so it just touches stop on governor control arm; this will ensure that the correct arm position for governor redline RPM setting cannot be exceeded. 2) If propeller RPM is below redline limit with max RPM setting on the propeller cockpit control, note RPM and land. Remove engine cowling and adjust the governor high RPM screw counterclockwise to increase RPM. Note that one full screw turn will cause an increase of approximately 25 RPM. Perform another test flight to confirm adjustments were sufficient. General Facts About McCauley Governors Static Run-Up - What is Normal? There has been some confusion in the field concerning propeller low blade angle setting, the governor setting and how it relates to static run-up and take-off RPM. As a general rule, engine redline RPM cannot be reached during a full power static run-up. Contrary to popular belief, the governor is not controlling the propeller at this time, the propeller is against its low pitch stop. Attempting to increase propeller static run-up RPM by adjusting the governor high RPM screw will have no effect and will probably result in a propeller overspeed during the take-off roll. On a single engine aircraft several considerations determine both the low and high blade angle settings. Normally 25 to 100 RPM below rated take-off RPM is desirable and acceptable during a static run-up. McCauley's practice is to set the low blade angle so that rated take-off RPM is not reached until the aircraft has reached some significant groundspeed during roll out. At this time, and only this time, the propeller is controlled by the governor. There are two advantages to this practice. First, the maximum static RPM can be used as a check on developed horsepower as with a fixed pitch propeller. Any loss of maximum power over time is readily apparent during a preflight check. Second, if the propeller remains in a flat pitch after take-off due to some malfunction, the higher angle low pitch setting will permit more thrust to be developed to fly the aircraft without overspeeding the engine.

If you suspect valves, I would definitely work to eliminate that sooner rather than later. If a valve sticks hard closed, something has to give and it will bend the pushrod. Then, you'll know for sure! But it's not good if it happens in flight.

Mostly when I use them, if I'm honest, I have to admit that I could have managed my energy better. I keep them lubricated and do exercise them occasionally during preflight. But the Precise Flight tech admitted to me that the motors and microswitches get moisture in them and those components are the ones that usually fail. Sometimes springs break and the clutches can slip especially if someone sprays silicone in the unit trying to shortcut the lubrication. I have found that with some care, it is possible to lube them without removing the units by using a long thin stick. I don't like removing them because there aren't many threads for each screw and they wear out eventually. Several of mine have been tapped out to #10.

Preheat is never a bad idea, but only affects starting. After a few seconds, the combustion chambers warm enough to vaporize the fuel well. Cylinders have two spark plugs. When only one fires, combustion progresses more slowly so the exhaust gasses leaving the cylinder are hotter and EGT rises. A rough running engine for several minutes after a cold start with low EGT and low CHT on specific cylinders could indicate a sticky valve. It’s more common in Lycomings, but can happen in any engine. Skip

I think Precise Flight needlessly overcomplicated the later speed brakes. The old 100 series on my airplane don’t have the ALC controller. One failed to deploy a while back and the yaw was not excessive and easily controllable with a little rudder pressure. Precise Flight, of course, wanted me to send both in for repair, but I declined and just got the broken one fixed. From the comments I see on MS, they don’t seem all that reliable and they are expensive to repair. I seldom use them on my J. Skip