PT20J

From the Concorde battery manual…

BTW, your IA closing his shop but I know a couple of good mechanics that did the same thing but will still work part time for a few customers. It keeps their hand in it and provides beer money. If you have a good relationship with him, I’d make him an offer. He may be open to an arrangement if you offer to pay him him well and do the grunt work yourself.

Leaks are not usually the cause of high oil consumption. I quart of oil is a HUGE leak.

There aren’t that many connections. It might be an easiest to just check each one. You might also want to check the brushes in the alternator.

THIS ^^^^^ The limitations are specific to each airframe and will be in the AFMS. The Cirrus I flew with a 55X had the limitation of 100’ below MDA (non-precision approach), or DH (precision approach).

It would be really interesting to know what broke. Do you have a picture/ part number? Perhaps your maintainer should file a Service Difficulty Report with the FAA. At current valuations I would think it would be repairable depending of course on the agreed value of the hull insurance.

$2000 bucks is a lot for something I hardly ever use in my M20J. The design isn't great because they are open to water from above and Precise Flight admitted that the motor and switches are not hermetically sealed and get water in them and that's usually what causes them to stop working. I think that's why they replace everything electrical during an overhaul. Their policy is probably based on the theory that if one got wet, the other probably is going to fail soon, too. They are supposed to be lubed annually because it's also possible to for the grease to wash out. I think @Will.iam meant Aeroshell 22. I found that it is possible to lube them from the top using a stir stick by lifting the brakes to gain access. I have the older 100 series, but it probably is possible to do that with the newer ones though I haven't tried it. I don't like to take them out because the frame isn't that thick and only has 2-3 threads for the screws to grab and several of mine stripped out from removing and reinstalling and I had to drill and tap them for larger screws. Skip

I've replaced door seals and it's actually easy with the door installed. You have to do a lot work to remove the old adhesive and it's easier with the door supported than it would be laying on a table because the door isn't flat. You can remove the hold open arm and then the door will open and lay against the cowling and you can put a towel between the door and the cowling to protect the paint. Pull off the old seal and then use 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner in the spray can and let it soak the old glue for a while and then rub off the glue with a shop rag. It takes several applications, but it will eventually come clean. Use 3M Yellow Weatherstrip Adhesive to bond the new seal. The Brown Aircraft Supply T-9088 bulb seal is what Mooney used on later models and works much better that the obsolete BA-189-139 which had a foam core that goes flat. The most important thing is to get the new weatherstrip positioned correctly. Around the top and sides the bulb should be centered over the door skin rivet line. The bottom and bottom corners are tricky because the radius of the opening and door don't match exactly. I took out the right front seat so that I could lay down inside with the door closed and use a sharpie to mark on the door where the fuselage opening is and position the seal outside that line. The adhesive actually has a reasonably long open time so you can lift the strip and move it if you need to within about 30 minutes or so. Then shut the door and let it cure overnight. It will be snug at first, but the seal will eventually take a set and the door will be easy to close and it won't leak if you got it positioned correctly. If for some reason there is a section that leaks (sometimes this happens because the door shape doesn't exactly follow the opening shape) just make a shim by cutting a piece of the flat part off a section of bulb seal, lift the door seal, apply some adhesive and slip the shim between the door and the seal. (The shim trick I got from Don Maxwell). Skip

That's the way it works in the rental airplanes I have flown. There are two switches: landing light and pulse. The landing light switch overrides the pulse if both are on.

With modern glass cockpits and capable autopilots, I let the autopilot fly to minimums. This is the way professional pilots do it. The reason is that it relieves you of the mechanics of flying and gives you the ability to monitor what's going on increases situational awareness. I keep a hand on the yoke in case something goes awry with the automation, but I can monitor the autopilot and control airspeed while devoting more time to looking ahead for the runway environment. The autopilot will fly more precisely than I can - that's why autopilots are required for operators authorized for minimums below 200'. It's still a good idea to fly some approaches manually to avoid becoming automation dependent. But if the weather is really down to minimums, I use the autopilot. I fly my approaches at 90 KIAS and TO flaps. From 200', it's really no problem to stay on the GS/GP and add full flaps and slow to Vref. Skip

Is yours on all the time or just when the gear is down. On the M20J, the light is on whenever the gear is down and off otherwise. It doesn't matter what the state of any other lights is.

Wow. I don't think the shock disks for the 5-disk configuration have been available for over 50 years!! Check out SBM20-139A. https://www.mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-139A.pdf And, you need the tool: https://www.knr-inc.com/products-list.html?view=article&id=133:knr-tools-mooney-landing-gear&catid=87:tools Skip

You need an airport cat.

The GMU 11 is susceptible to electrical interference -- especially strobes. Might check that.

The emergency gear extension on the Mooney turns the gearbox the same as the motor so it is the same as lowering the gear electrically as far as the mechanics are concerned. If for some reason the gear is not fully down, you would use the emergency gear extension system to fully extend it. Whenever using the emergency system be careful to STOP when the light comes on and/or the floor indicator marks line up. If you keep actuating the system after that, you can jam it up.

So can Mooney

I bet it's in the manual because that's probably the way the factory adjusts them. They probably set the stops on the tube to some fixed location and bend the fixed stop to take up any variations in the airframe. My airplane only has 1600 hours on it and I'm pretty sure from the logs that this has never been messed with.

I did check the rudder stops and they were OK. The rudder tube is to the left of the picture. The fixed stop looks a little bent, but it has always been that way and the Service and Maintenance Manual allows bending it to adjust the rudder deflection. The fixed stop is so much heavier metal than the stops clamped on the push-pull tube that I don't think it could be bent by the push-pull tube and I would expect damage to be to the tube or stops clamped to the tube. The maximum rudder deflection measured per spec each way.

I put the MaxPulse on the recognition lights and left the taxi lights and landing lights as they were. However, since all these are now LED, I leave them all on all the time in flight. The seaplanes I flew for Kenmore Air had pulsed wing mounted landing lights (Beavers don't have taxi lights). I flew a lot of trips with company traffic coming the opposite direction. I noted that the pulsing lights were not all that visible during the day because the beam width of a landing light is so narrow that you only see them if they are pretty much at your 12 o'clock. If I were going to pulse something besides the recognition lights, I would pulse the taxi lights because they have a wider horizontal beam. However, I figured that steady landing and taxi lights and pulsed recognition lights was good enough and simple to install. Skip

It won’t fit on a J because of the proximity of the muffler. I don’t know about other models.

I owned a 78 J 30 years ago that didn't have the stops. My 94 J that I own not has always had them.

As Don Maxwell put it, the killer combination is an 8’ towbar, a 2000 lb tug, and a 19 year-old kid.

Mooney added the stops somewhere early in the M20J production. My 78 didn’t have them. LASAR has an STC to add the stops as part of its rebuild, if they ever start doing that again. Mooney puts them on any new part they make.

You should check your schematic, but on my 1994 M20J, there were separate power runs back to the breaker/switch.