David Lloyd

Dig thru your menus, System, then I think Nav/Com. There are adjustments to sidetone volume. Garmin site has manual online. In the pilot guide.

This thread has me looking at the Airtex site. Gonna do something but what? 13 Or 14 years ago I had Airtex install an interior in my old Bonanza. They used the same stuff they sell for owner installs. It was a terrific value in an 8000 hour airplane. Same for my 44 year old Mooney.

Thin enough metal to form by hand. Pull over the edge of your workbench until it fits with the old lens. But first, smooth the edges with a wheel or file, cut the sharp corners. And wear gloves. The pizza pan in the oven is just in case. Pizza pan is cheaper than a new oven.

Pee Dee Avionics in Cheraw, SC. For people out of the region, Pee Dee refers to the Great Pee Dee River. Begins as the Yadkin and changes names at the confluence of the Uwharrie. Ramen noodles it is. Plenty of time to ramp up more to do.

Got scheduled in the radio shop for new gps, adsb in/out, transponder, audio panel. First slot available, w/o December 23. Ah, seven months of peanut butter sandwiches to save up some money.

On a long cross country, I usually think at some point that this airplane should be faster.

My new ride has a LED landing light in the standard position and also in the hole vacated by the oil cooler relocation. That one has a cracked landing light lens. Both lenses appear to have been made by Mod Works many years back from an old green windshield. Went by Ace Hardware and got a piece of 1/8" thick plexiglass scrap and a 6x24 piece of sheet metal. I gently curved the sheet metal to match the curvature of the old lens. I marked the plexiglass with a Sharpie for two lenses, one left and a mirror image for right. I then used tin snips to cut away the excess material. Don't get carried away, cracks will run 1/2". Then I used a HF belt sander (80 grit) to remove more material. Work slowly and the last sanding remove the black sharpie marks. Smooth the edge with sandpaper, remove the plastic protection from each side of the plexiglass while the oven is heating to 400 degrees. Lay the sheet metal form on a pizza pan and a piece of parchment paper over the form and the new lens on top. Put in the oven and turn on the light. In just a couple minutes the plexiglass will sag down to lay on the curved form. Give it another minute and remove. Cool. Match up to each appropriate lens and use a dull twist drill and high speed and almost no pressure to drill the full size mounting holes. Use a larger twist drill between your thumb and finger to carefully break the sharp edges on the holes. Install. Hour and a half including the log entry.

In the 106 Service Manual.

I had three reman Continental engines (one at a time) not need a quart within the first 50 hours. Each started at 12 and wound up around 10 quarts. As time was put on each, oil consumption gradually increased from a quart in 20 hours to a quart in 8 hours. First reman went 2350 hours without any problem whatsoever. The next ate exhaust valves on a sad basis beginning at 550 hours. Many cylinders later I gave up at 1550 hours. Yes, it was a Continental reman, why do you ask? The last engine had 1250 hours without any problem whatsoever when the airplane was sold. Except for break-in, used Aeroshell 15W50, oil and filter were changed every 50 hours, about every 10 weeks. How many hours on your engine?

Ha! Just bought one of these two days ago. Will point out the 28V is not an obstacle. It is internal jumper changeable to 14V.

Anyone other than LASAR repairing nose trunnion dented tubes?

Have quotes on the way from two shops on a 375 install. Get rid of that old GPS and that Michaels nav/com. Want to get an audio panel also and will need another com. KMA 20 and Sigtronics will go. I've been looking at PS Eng. PAR200A. What'cha think? Or should I go with a 450 and Garmin 225? Why, why not?

Shannon at Pee Dee Avionics in Cheraw did a bunch of install work at Twin Lakes before opening his own shop several years ago. I left a message for him today regarding my new purchase.

Engine and prop are 2700 SMOH. A lot of O-360 make it that long but not much longer. Prop is showing signs of that age now. It is time to shop for repairs. Are you and the other owners prepared to fork up that money next week? If yes, sounds good. If no, move on. Oh, any partnership is like getting married. Some work great, others not so. This would be like having 3 spouses. If a decision is to be made, how does that work?

Not the first time. Won't be the last.

3 Each side.

RV7. Think it is sold, money to be wired Friday. We'll see. Mooney next. Might have to fly a Bo till a Mooney is purchased.

One time on the RV I taped every ridge, every seam, every junction that looked like it may cause drag. Maybe, maybe it was slightly faster. Maybe. Less than about 3 knots it is very difficult to tell. One day to the next, different temps, different pressures, different fuel load, etc. makes it difficult to see a small difference. Ripped all the tape off and never looked back.

It appears your alternator and voltage regulator are working properly. Suspect is how the JPI 930 was installed. The shunt to measure the amp draw is normally in line between the alternator and main bus to measure alternator load. Mounted between the bus and battery will show battery charge or discharge. Two or three amps a few minutes after start is what the battery would draw, not the total amp load of the system. If you turn off your alternator (pull field breaker if not a separate switch) do you show a negative amps? If so, you need to find a competent mechanic or radio shop to review paperwork and what it takes to make it right.

You take it apart and you buy it. Worn cam or bad lifters and we can negotiate the price. But it isn't mine after someone else pulls off a cylinder.

Many years ago a friend left his E at an FBO. He returned, it was sitting in the same spot, he started the engine and the nose gear collapsed as soon as he began to taxi. He told me and I don't know this to be accurate but sounds probable; He left the parking brake on, they tried to move the airplane with a tug, pushed it backward and found the parking brake on, unhooked and left the airplane in place. The nose retract rods were bent when they attempted to push it back and the nose gear retracted as soon as the airplane moved. Would not have caught this in the preflight as the nose trunnion itself was not damaged until later. I can imagine something similar taking place with big chocks behind the mains and no parking brake. Prompted me to buy insurance on my C. Seems like the nose gear trunnion would have to have huge dents to collapse while being towed. Just wondering what happened.

Not normal. Could be the starter. Could be worn or high resistance contacts in the starter solenoid. Could be a loose are dirty connection. Not the alternator although the charging voltage is a bit low (albeit normal for an Interav conversion alternator). How old is that battery? Battery voltage at rest is not an accurate gauge as whether the battery is good.

A temporary load like keying the microphone or extending the gear will draw needed power from the battery while the maximum amps from the stand-by alternator is exceeded. Another good reason to keep a healthy battery in your plane. When considering a stand-by alternator, it is a safety device to assist you getting to a convenient airport for repair of the big alternator, not for flying around for a month awaiting repair. The Bo I fly occasionally has a B&C stand-by. Installation includes light that blinks when the stand-by load is exceeded. Pretty sure B&C has manuals on their website that describes use.

Why separate out hardware that will run off of the standby alternator. Not flying the space shuttle. Simply turn off what you don't need until the load is acceptable.

Somewhere, someone probably here said to buy your last plane first. I've owned airplanes 40 years including an RV7. Am selling that to buy another Mooney.