David Lloyd

Just for future thought: Most master switches are a ground source for the master relay that already has a power source to it. Starter switches do have power from the buss and will provide power to the energize already grounded starter relay.

Like what MikeOH did, The '65 C POH performance charts are pretty basic: Standard atmosphere, 2200 pounds, full fuel, pilot, and what seems to be a best power mixture. Let's use 7500' pressure altitude, light weight, GPS "horseshoe method speed, 2500 RPM and mixture to go as fast as possible. List your mods, we could make charts for the C, E, F.

I have two 7" screens in my RV. Font is a little too small for my old eyes. The 10" screens would cure that. Also cure excess money in the checking account.

Engineer types. Ratios and speeds in their head. And the boss. Okay, plenty of creative math there.

With unsuspecting passengers after an hour or so at 8 or 9000' I would hand them a notepad and ask them to add the numbers on it. Simple stuff like 23+11+42. Never got a correct answer.

The sales or use tax is just a one time pain. Twice since NC changed their law no longer excluding casual sales. It is the yearly property tax that are expensive. Let's see, average $700 year Mecklenburg County and City of Charlotte tax for the last 40 years...wow!

NC uses multiple sources, including new aircraft registrations and changes. Once I changed an N number and triggered a bill.

Sorry for sounding condescending. My spouse also complains. I will try to stick to facts rather than opinions.

It isn't. However there is a lot more to it than a couple wires. The D-sub connectors and computer like cables connect much of the Dynon parts to each other. The main wiring harness for the displays has a 37 pin connector at on end and the other end goes to power, a/p disconnect, audio panel, ground, serial ports on transponder, gps antenna, etc. When connecting Dynon to an audio panel or nav radio, that's where it gets tricky. Garmin shares their installation guides and wiring diagrams with their dealers, not you. A whole bunch of connections need to be configured after everything is connected. Not difficult but must be figured out and done. The Dynon install guide is now 571 pages, it can be downloaded from their website. I've looked at and read pretty much every page. Several times. I would not want to pay a first time installer, a really sharp A&P $75 an hour to read through that. I'll go back and read the Dynon announcement. When they said we could have a trusted shop named on the STC as being responsible for installation, surely they meant an avionics shop, someone accustomed to interconnecting various brands of equipment, someone with the manuals available, someone that's been there, done that. Sure, anyone can do the install given enough time. I've done it. Twice. Oh, the user guide is also on their site. It is an easier read at only 256 pages.

Most Dynon components share information by a network cable, much like a computer cable with Dsub connectors. Each cable has two sets of data lines, if one is compromised the other takes over. The displays, button panel and knob panel each have two connectors available and can be in the end or middle of a daisy chain of components. The engine monitor, ARINC, autopilot servos and ADAHRS have only one connector. The transponder and ADSB receiver use a serial connection teed to each display. Here's where the hub comes into play: If each display, engine monitor, ARINC and ADAHRS are all connected through a 5 port hub and one display dies, all info is available to the other display. If one display is removed for whatever reason, all info is available to the other display. Can you do without the hub? Yep, but for a few dollars and a few extra cables, there is much redundancy. There is software cross checking going on all the time. Alerts will show broken wires, one data line error, data mismatches, etc. Every now and then some upside-down, slipping, ham-fisted maneuver will cause a ADAHRS mismatch. You won't see that in a Mooney. Hopefully. Another thread someone was asking about a G meter. Yep. You can show it full time in place of the HSI. Or have it pop up at some programed force. Mine is set for 2.5 G. Also has a visual AOA indicator and audible warnings. I've got 7" displays. My 67 year old eyes would like the bigger font of the 10" displays. Didn't show the second ADAHRS on the data sheet the 1st I think is $1200, the 2nd is less, by 2 or $400. I think the STC will require a backup battery for each unit. When new the battery will power the display for at least an hour. Software forces you to test the battery once a year. One of my batteries failed the test in it's seventh year, the other is still going strong.

Not available just means not yet on the STC paperwork. They have product, I have it flying.. I agree, it does come down to features and price difference just like any other avionics choice. When you compare the G5, don't you need to add in an engine monitor, ADSB in/out, a big display with map that can display VFR and IFR charts, approach plates, airport info, an engine monitor that replaces all the instruments, a 1090ES transponder.... You could, maybe should compare with the 500Txi. It would surprise me if Dynon would allow owner installs with IA sign-off. Most systems will be paired with an IFR certified navigator, Garmin's 650/750 or Avidyne's 440/540. Either way, there will be some sophisticated wiring beyond the scope of most A&P shops.

Bring her to Wilgrove and sit in my 7. And bring your checkbook.

Close is always further than you think when it comes to building. I did the slow build, first two years I was still working and could only spend one day and a couple evenings each week. Then retired and work on the RV a couple full days and a couple evenings a week for a year. Built everything in my shop in the back yard so meals, restroom and travel were not a problem. One day everything was done and time to transport to the airport to final assemble and inspect which took 8 weeks on the same schedule. One day short of 3 years first rivet to first flight. It is about like building a house by yourself--a bunch of work. The seats and rudder pedals ARE adjustable. But not in flight. Need a wrench for the pedals, pliers for the seats.

Performance charts in the old book list conditions as 2200 weight, standard conditions, best power, full fuel. That pretty much is one heavy person (210), full fuel (300), 40 pounds of headsets, oil, charts, approach books, a change of underwear and an old Mooney (1650). One point, 7500', full throttle, the chart shows 182 mph (158 knots). Under those conditions I used to see 140-144 knots. You, 145-147. That seems like ways off when we are interested in accuracy.

The owner's manual for the '65 C Model I had, the performance numbers were wishful thinking at best. The older books are on this site. Don't read with a mouthful of coffee. The increased speed claims of the "speed" mods I installed were seriously overstated. That's why I'm asking, what does work and by how much.

Filled a few pages with test data that back up theory. Memory numbers might be rounded off or depend on how much rich or lean of peak but close, I did the tests, I got the numbers. I agree that in comparing before and after speeds you need to compare at the same fuel flow. There does seem to be a lot of variation from one airplane to the next. Same model, same mods, same fuel flow, different speeds. CAS vs IAS is just a few knots but still a real thing. Anyone else test theirs? Yours high or low? One airplane to the next could be different. My IAS is 2.5 to 3.5 lower than CAS depending on the days I tested (many variables). I just use 3 and let it go from there. Groundspeed is worthless as a performance indicator. Again, does anyone have their own test numbers before and after modifications. Again, years ago I found a number of mods that did next to nothing for speed increases. What works? How much?

Fuel flow does have a big effect on TAS. My RV with everything just right will do 177 knots TAS but the flow is about 11.5 gph. Dial the rpm back to 2500 and flow about 9.5 will get me 170 knots. Bring the flow back to LOP, about 8.5 and 162 knots. 7.5 GPH, 155 knots. Yep, 4GPH will make a 20 knot difference. Blue, was there any speed difference at the same fuel flow?

Years ago I had a 1965 C. When I bought it, I remember seeing 140-143 knots depending on loading, altitude, temp, etc. In the quest for more speed I had gap seals, landing light cover, aileron seals, empennage hinge seals, empennage fairing, dorsal fairing wheel well enclosure, and brake rotation. When I sold it, I could count on...yep, 140-144 knots depending on loading, altitude, temp, etc. Quite a bit less improvement than promised before the checks were written. At the time, I don't remember anyone installing the 201 windshield or cowling. Maybe, maybe not. I did however, attempt to make a fiberglass cover to block off that big hole in front of the engine cowl. Gave up--hate fiberglass. I discussed that with someone at a fly-in. Hmm. In another thread, someone asked about the speed of the F model. Comments have speeds all over the place. Same for the E and C. Looking at Flight Aware it would appear 140 knots for the C and F and 145 knots for the E are pretty common. About the only mods where there seems to be a true benefit are the 201 windshield and cowling. I have searched but have been unable to find where anyone documented before and after testing when modifications are done. Seems faster, definitely is faster, a lot faster is not a test result. Anybody do any real before and after testing? Other vintage Mooney mods in addition to what was already mentioned are: LoPresti cowling, closure, 10:1 pistons, IO-390, Power Flow exhaust, flap and aileron hinge covers. Anyone have some hard info?

Nope, better not run for office. You admitted making a mistake!

Right now my gear is welded in place. But, after the Mooney I did 5500 hours in a F33A. Gear always came down at pattern entry or 1000 AGL on an instrument approach. Approaching either my hand went to the gear knob and would not come off until I said out loud, 3 in the green.

I've got more to check now than 40 years ago, and need more reminders. Seriously, my landing checklist is very short: Fuel selector, fuel pump on, mixture, prop. Flaps and trim take care of themselves. Takeoff is where I want the important list to keep me out of the trees. I have another checklist for departing on an IFR flight that adds autopilot stuff: heading bug, initial altitude, flight plan entered in the navigator, and the transponder code entry buttons showing on the EFIS. Things that are needed. I have seen Cherokee 140s at the runway for 20 minutes going over a checklist.

16 GPH flow seems a bit low to me but since you are climbing and max flow stays pretty constant and as manifold pressure drops with altitude less horsepower is made requiring less fuel so as you climb things pretty much correct themselves. A couple posts mentioned timing. 20 Or 25. Which is yours? Is your timing set correctly? I have found this to be equally critical to cylinder head temps as fuel flow. Being experimental I can monkey around with timing. 20 Degrees BTDC my cylinder temps are cool. I can climb at low airspeed on a hot day. 26 Degrees BTDC and I must be careful with the mixture to avoid redline CHTs in cruise. 9.5:1 Pistons put me closer to detonation than your 8.7:1 compression ratio. 23 Degrees works well for me with CHTs under control. Someone mentioned hot oil temps. Here again with hours piddling with marginal cooling I have found a direct correlation between CHTs and oil temps. No kidding, right? Wait. If cruising a full power rich of peak mixture with CHTs around 400 degrees I will have oil temps of around 203-205. Pull the mixture to lean of peak and CHTs may come down to 365-370 and after a while oil temps will ease of to about 190.

Watch the video carefully as the accident taxis out and is on the takeoff roll. Elevator neutral until part way down the runway. Then only enough elevator to raise the nose for a normal takeoff once speed is reached. No huge surprise at the end.

I was taught when on a soft surface the controls should be held back on taxi and takeoff until the nosewheel is off the ground. Unless wind dictates something else, that is what I still do. Anything else is asking for trouble especially on a soft surface.

Finally got the seat belt fastened for a big passenger, he claimed 300, in my RV. Shoulder harness, uh-uh. Could not sweep the controls. Worried there may not be enough elevator on landing. Suck it in big guy. I already am! Need bigger airplane.