David Lloyd

So many times we read that an attitude indicator or directional gyro acts weird and then the vacuum gauge is discovered sitting on 0. Or the radios quit working and then the volt or amp meter is discovered to show a power loss. If the vacuum gauge (or other instruments) are not in your scan, install an annunciator panel and/or backup power sources.

Anything listed above or possibly a worn exhaust valve guide and the valve not seating consistently. If this is the case, it will get worse. Eventually the face of the valve will break and you will definitely notice rough running.

Look at all those states you get to color in!

Still in the process of installing the Airtex interior. Seats, carpet, and carpeted lower side panels are supplied with a P.M.A. label. I did buy some foam insulation and headliner material. These were supplied with a copy of the burn certs for those materials.

Not much of a picture, maybe you will see what you need. Do you have a picture of what you are questioning?

Your Mooney will handle pretty much any crosswind you are comfortable flying. Your recent experience was most likely a matter of new airplane feel versus old airplane and muscle memory. Several thousand hours in a F33A and due to it's tendency to weathervane into the wind during takeoff, I was always more apprehensive when taking off than when landing. Mooney, I never noticed that tendency.

The timing curve used to be on their site but was removed recently.

If it is a King KCS55A system, there is the unit in the panel that is probably good. The magnetometer is probably good. The gyro/control box (KG102??) in the radio bay is usually the culprit. First flight in my airplane, this failed. HSI needle worked, manual slaving would turn the card but the card would not follow either a turn or compass. If this is the case, pull the KG102 out and have it bench checked. I was lucky and had a friend with a recent overhaul before being replace with a G500 system. Someone offered a KG102 for sale on this site a couple months back.

The doors do overlap the wing skins at both the front edge and rear. The picture posted by Captnmac shows a door with bent hinges. He fixed that. He only posted the bent hinge picture. This pic is what I asked about. Rear, 3/4-1" gap. Don't see any adjustment. The front edge is flush, even, tight on the wing skin.

Instructions aren't much more than already told. My Mooney used 1/2" tube, not 3/8". Detailed instruction steps for each picture Step 1 Use.064 aluminum Step 2 Four tubes three eighths stainless steel 12 inches long Step 3 Measure existing holes for proper spacing Step 4 Cut plate down to 3 x 7 Step 5 Predrill holes Step 6 Number 8 machine screw Stept 7 Number 8 locknut Step 8 Finished product Taking foam off one of the rear seats. The 5/8" tube holds the 1/2" tube of the headrest. Don't have finished product yet. About 4 weeks away.

In the download section under engine manuals you will find the Mooney Service and Maint. Manual #106. Download that. There are detailed instructions how to weigh a Mooney properly. It begins with draining the fuel. Then adding back unusable fuel. Leveling, weighing, measuring the actual position of the wheels in relation to the airplane. Then a bunch of math. You might want to print the appropriate pages, there is no way to communicate that simply. With the 3 blade prop, I would expect your c.g. to be forward. Instead it is right at aft c.g. empty! Any loading at all would result in being out of the allowable range. Your airplane may be as heavy as the mechanic claims but I can't see any way for the c.g. to have been calculated correctly. Manual #106 has a bunch of detailed instruction on care and service of your Mooney.

The headrests in my Nissan Frontier pickup fit my Mooney. 6" Spacing, 1/2" tube. Headrests internals are easy to fab, Airtex sent me instructions: 2 Pieces of 1/2" diameter stainless tube 12" long. 1 Piece of .064 sheet aluminum 3" x 7". Drill the sheet to the tubes and use machine screws to join. Upholster.

Eb. My wife is still thinking something about Green Acres.

Alan, $ on airspeed indicator, compass and the engine instrument cluster.

Wow, a KN74. Had one in a '65C that worked and I did a number of RNAV approaches way back when.. Your panel is like mine, awaiting a money infusion.

Turn rate indicator is under the ball on the AI display. Vertical speed is extreme right, it is pretty subtle. Both only show when turning or changing altitude.

bump

As others have said, there are drains for the sniffle valve and mechanical fuel pump. The only time I see raw fuel drip from the sniffle valve drain is when I flood the engine on a hot start. It may drip a little at shut down, I just have not seen that. But it is normal to drain any liquid from the intake manifold, that's what it does. If the mechanical fuel pump is leaking fuel, it has failed and will soon become catastrophic. You need to know which drain is dripping fuel.

Power Flow has an Oshkosh week discount based on how many units they sell. It is at the maximum, $500, good thru Sunday. Couple this with the extended shipping time discount and it may be just enough to force a decision.

I have a 1975 M20C with a McCauley 3 blade. It is vibration free, very smooth. That said, I would not spend extra money to change from a two to three blade. Or vice versa. When mine was changed, the previous owner spent the extra money to relocate the battery from the firewall to the rear radio bay. Going to a 3 blade, let's see: extra weight, possible weight and balance consideration, extra cost of acquisition, additional overhaul cost, possible speed penalty versus cooler look (debatable) , slightly better acceleration and climb.

I've done so many dumb things in and around airplanes that I can only conclude flying is pretty safe.

Over the last 5 years I had the starter solenoid become erratic on 2 different Skytec lightweight starters. Both were replace with one from O'Reilly's for a Ford F350. Each would not pull in, until the sharp whack. The O'Reilly's part is working fine. Of course, that was on the RV. Cough.

Last week my plane was on jacks with the gear raised. From the front, the main gear doors on both sides were even and tight against the wing skin. At the rear edge however, there was a 1" gap between the door and wing skin on both doors. I don't ever recall looking at this in the past. Maintenance manual only directs to adjust the leading edge. Does this gap seem correct? Am I missing something (other than knots)? edit: Took my own usual advice and read the instructions again. Maintenance manual says that once the gear is properly rigged the main gear door is adjusted so the leading AND trailing edges are flush on the wing skins. Apparently, there are a lot of mis-rigged doors out there.

I would fit my C a lot better if I lost 20 pounds. No hope for the size 12s.

Yes, I read last week CQ will be at OSH.