Browncbr1

If I could afford it, I would have a twin, no doubt.. the fact is, the cost of operating my F is almost nothing compared to a twin and it does 90% of my missions. The other 10% I borrow a baron or don’t go. If you’re proficient in multi engine operation and emergency training, and you have deep pockets, they are generally better, except for a few quirky make/models that I would not fly.

Yes, it has charts too. Also, if you flush mount vertically, it makes an excellent mfd next to your pfd

What a shakedown

660 with gtn650 is poor mans 750 with battery backup! Enjoy!

At gross & 8-9k DA, mined does 140-145ktas (CAS).. 65% 0-20 LOP 2500lbs, add a few more kts or add 5kts for 2300lbs. (Typically 147-149ktas) Add an additional 2-3kts for fresh wax. The only mod I have is 201 windshield and brake rotation. My rudder is a little bit out of rigging.

Solar sc is definitely the way to go. No eye fry and cooler cabin temps.

Someone just post the letter here for the community; future visitors. ???

Shyea.. and monkeys might fly outta my butt...

I’ll take them! Thanks!

Goes like this.. you can remove the rubber gasket to help keep an exact cut line, as the rubber compresses if you give inconsistent down pressure while spinning

The current surefly mounting flange does not allow it to be twisted enough to get 25° with a certain mag drive gear. You need the mag drive gear that has two woodruff key slots. There is also another single woodruff slot version that works. If you go to aircraft magneto specialist website, he has detailed which gears work. If you don’t have the correct gear, the best you will get there’s about 22° https://www.aircraftmagnetoservice.net/magneto-coupling

If you have 25 degree timing, make sure you have the correct mag drive gear if you order the surefly.

We all saw bob’s sell fairly quickly... I think so

So you use a vise to hold the filter by the nut end with the threaded end pointing up vertically. You put this device on top so it is resting on the rubber gasket seal and the cutting wheel pointing down so it is next to the filter side wall. You use the threaded knob to tighten the clamp against the threads of the filter until just a little pressure is on the cutting wheel. Spin the device around the filter a few times. Usually just some of the white paint comes off.. continue doing this process and gradually tighten the threaded knob little by little each time. If still confused, I’ll post a video next week.

Hey guys, I thought I would upload this simple hack. Most portable/handheld Garmin units come with a yoke mount. Mine sat on the shelf until now. This aluminum yoke mount can be used as a oil filter cutter. All you need is the little cutting wheel and this one dollar packet of hardware from Lowe’s. It works just as well as the $100 cutters out there.

Wow, I can’t believe you got all that for 300.. when I was looking, it didn’t seem possible to put together a kit like that for that little cost. Which kind of squeezer is that? Did it come with the dimple dies and all?

Thanks for your feedback guys. This is definitely not my first project. Some of you might recall that I installed my 201 sloped windscreen STC under IA supervision. I would prefer to use a squeezer with normal countersunk rivets. The issue is I don't have access to that squeezer anymore and they are quite expensive for this tiny project. I have used an air hammer (yes, air hammer is harder to control, but going easy and lightly will get the job done) and bucking bar in the past where the squeezer could not reach, and used cherrymax where things were blind. I'm just thinking get it done with minimal investment.

Yes, I was looking at one with a 2” reach, but for now I’m thinking to make use of my pop gun and air hammer/bucking blocks

Hey guys, my dip stick door hinge (67F) is really tired and needing to be replaced. I’ve found that this hinge is 1.5” width fully open .040 stock that is available from spruce in 3ft sections. I want to just keep it simple and use counter sunk cherrymax rivets, but does anyone know the diameter river hole that came from the factory? I would like to order the right size and have on hand rather than drill them to find out and order after the fact.

I think lopresti is down there in Sebastian, FL at Whelen. I called 3 or 4 years ago to speak to him about the cowl kit and he said it would be $25k parts alone. That’s why you don’t see many of those cowls around. They are sweet looking though.

Don’t forget budget for dual transition training, as it seems all insurance carriers are requiring that these days. Also, take time to consider if you want electric gear or the bulletproof manual gear. Usually, folks who desire manual gear and more useful load and interior space go for 67F, as I did. The electric gear has a tiny cold formed spring that can break and inhibit the gear. It is very expensive to replace this little $1 spring and something that needs to be done every so many hours. Jbar owners just lubricate at annual. No worries. High time airframes would need a look at the downlock block though, but that is cheap and easy. lastly, in the age of ever increasing insurance rates, consider the affect of high Hull value on your annual insurance premium.

Haha... July 2018...

If you’re making a list, I’m a mooney CFI in Knoxville, TN.

Gee, maybe I need to think about selling mine. Wow

Try doing the Dixie cup routine continuously while switching the fuel selector back and forth. Sometimes over a long period of time, junk collects in the fuel selector valve