Browncbr1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/392076915240 Weld a bracket to hold the wheel on the nose tire and you’re good to go like the sidewinder.

My hull is $80k, commercial multiengine Instrument over 1000hrs complex, 41yrs old with 2nd class Med. Premium is $1516. Global quote was $1709, up from $1316. Previous year was $970.

My renewal from global went up almost 30%, so I switched to QBE for a smaller increase of 15%... no changes in hull, coverage, or currency. Prior year went up 30% with global, but it was the same premium as an alternative, but included saavy.. this year they increased another 30% and discontinued saavy. So, QBE it is.

That makes sense now as to why you’re ok... the advancing is too much for engines timed at 25... several years ago my ia mistakenly timed mine to 20°, it ran like crap and was several kts slower and climb was not as good, ....It also ran to cool so, I’ve always been set at 25 since.

Is your base timing 20dbtdc or 25 like mine?

I usually get around 700 fpm up there with cht 330F or less, with advancing enabled it’s about 3 to 400 feet max...and hot. My base timing is 25.... Believe it or be my guest to install yours with advancing enabled.. users with 20 degree base timing might be ok

Because advancing is optimized for slow burning LOP. If ROP, then it is a advanced too much for the fast burning mixture.

It took me 45 minutes to remove my left wall interior and run the wire from the batter to the firewall and put the interior back together. It takes maybe 10 minutes to remove the left mag, 10-15 minutes to swap the drive gear. 10 minutes to program the sim.. the most time consuming is getting the sim bolted to the case at 0 degrees. Maybe 20 minutes.. then 10-15 minutes to put the harness on the sim and back on the plugs. 15 minutes to pull it out and test run it. 10 minutes to put the cow back on. So about 2 hours if you know what you’re doing. Add an hour if you’re taking your sweet time, add another hour if you don’t know what you’re doing. 4 hours MAX. 17 is ridiculous. If you don’t have the right drive gear, don’t spend hours trying to get the timing exact.. it won’t happen. Just install 2-3 degrees retarded or source a new drive gear. If you have the reversible gear already and you install the sim and realize you need to turn the gear cog 180 degrees, add 45-60 minutes for removing, r&r drive gear and reinstall sim.

I installed my SF in August.. I had the $350 gear problem, but Jason at SF shipped me one free exchange. I was glad about that for sure.. Ground ops are much improved, but I had to go back to fixed timing.. rate of climb was cut in half at 7000’ and above. In climb you want high rpm and ROP.. with the advance, it robbed all the ROP power making ability and made temps go up too high. LoP is good and smooth and all, but no speed gain and I was having to spend more time in climb... folks out west at high elevations report they must use fixed timing. It’s no problem if you climb to 5 or 6000’ or less and then pull power back and go LOP. , but if you routinely operate higher, I would recommend fixed timing. I’m also of the opinion that the advancing May get you into the red box unsuspectingly, especially ROP. All this could be solved if you could add a switch to the panel to switch between fixed and variable timing, but....... Ive put about 50 hours or so on my install... I’m still flying around with the slick mag in a box in the baggage compartment.

With your budget, you could get a pa30 and set aside the balance for MX.. as others have said, the challenge is finding one that is well kept and flown regularly. Recent 1000hr gear AD and condition of the heater are things to look for apart from the standard lookout for corrosion, etc. I’ve seen io-320s that were treated right go beyond 4000hrs.. the props that go on those are comparatively cheap as well. To get your multiengine rating, it would probably cost you about 2amu if renting. Insurance will be about 1amu more for same hull value. Annual inspection around here would be about .5-1 amu more. Fuel burn for a 350nm trip would be about $40more and get there ~25-30min quicker with less pucker factor. A couple hours of MEI dual every year would be a good idea.

Going faster than 155ktas loaded up to gross, isn't very realistic in most N/A IO-360 mooney's without running 75% power or more burning more fuel ROP. Be good to your engine and it will be good to you. Running hard routinely over water is not a recipe I would want to involve my family with. Mooney's typically lose between 5-10kts at gross compared to solo. My F, running 65% at peak is good for about 147ktas lightly loaded or about 140ktas at gross. Very few mooney owners will admit publicly the real world cruise loaded up to gross.. IMHO... Also, 150lbs baggage will exceed 120lbs max baggage area. Flying over large areas of water with long distances between the very few instrument approaches, I would strongly recommend considering something like a twin Comanche as a better fit for your mission. There are nose and wing locker STCs to solve the baggage volume you will have, and it's fast enough with cheap, bulletproof engines.

the gpss part is handled through the G5, which will output heading left/right signals.. yea.. i love the cheap, reliable brittain. no 2amu servos to worry about... 3m electrical tape is about all you need to service them.

If you have the PC wing leveler already installed in your plane, you can install a Brittain accuflite AP that can interface with the G5’s for HDG and GPSS. It’s a little difficult to source the bi-805 valve, but with patience, they are out there with and without that part number stamped on it. I love my Brittain. Cheap and works extremely well. I think I spent 1amu and it is a very easy install.

You should ask him how he thinks the surefly was approval.. installation calls for connecting directly to the battery.

I use the pvc pipe method, but puppy pads also work really well if you don’t want to wait for it to drain slowly. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/animaze-absorbent-dog-potty-pads-100-ct-2776523?cm_mmc=PSH-_-GGL-_-SPP-_-PME-_-PET-_-AQU-_-0-_-PM_GGL_FY20_SBU04_SH6_PetCare_DogCleanUp_PLA-SMRT-_-0-_-0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImZzv9amA7AIVBNbACh1dUAsVEAQYAiABEgKAePD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Yea, I saw that but an E is ok if that is only 20% of mission.

I’m not sure why no one has suggest to Willie that an E model might make more sense. 80% solo time, as fast (some faster) than a J model. Less that half the purchase cost, less insurance due to lower hull value, available with Johnson bar..... some are TN equipped. .. 377miles doesn’t make any sense to be for a K. I wouldn’t want to leave $120k sitting on tiedowns...

I find that a hood is not close enough to simulating what imc is like. The welding goggles are as close as it gets, but still not the same. So, I’ve always gone out and flown approaches when weather is crap. I find that there is no substitute for preparing for real world hard IFR like flying in actual.

Yes

Sounds like you need a different avionics tech working on it. Apart from that, make sure no wires are chaffing out on airframe intermittently grounding. I had that happen with shielding inside one of the nacelles affecting a jpi.

Thanks for sharing/documenting the source here!

The thing that turned me off turboprops are phase inspections. $$$. I would think, after you put a TP in a mooney, you’d have more cost and less utility, certainly way more cost per seat, than a meridian. Need to deal with ice too

Hi Clarence, Could you please help me with which rod end bearing, bolt and spacer is going on F models these days? I found this swivel type https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/swivelbearing.php?clickkey=4183 https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/hmbrng.php?clickkey=4183 https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/aurorabearfem.php?clickkey=4183 Thanks! Craig

Drawings don’t show it connected to pc because it doesn’t connect to the pc side. The AH connects via a T fitting you will install on the vacuum line separate from PC. For the master switch, you can use the plumbing that goes to the yoke button or you could add a T fitting to the main vacuum line after the regulator that goes directly to a plunger valve.

Is your installation going into a short body? In my F, the aft servo bolted right up to existing structure. However, I think I may happen to have that aft bracket in your drawing on my parts shelf if you end up needing it. Btw, I’d you don’t already know, if you climb or let down without having opened the plungers to let the vacuum out of the system, the diaphragms in the brain will stretch and will degrade its ability to hold altitude tightly. I recommend adding a third plunger as a master pc system on/off unless you want to deal with the thumb button on the yoke. I did so and used the hole on the yoke for my ptt.