RLCarter

No, full fuel……needed something to wash it down with……lol

Might of taken the mixture or prop cable loose but didn’t remove them or any trays. My flap cable broke right at the attach point at the pump/valve in the belly….new cable was pricey …. $400?

I replaced my cable several years back…..seems I had move or remove things to get to it……took several hours IIRC

Welcome aboard…….. everyone on here was a “New Guy” at some point….. MS is the most active forum I’ve ever been involved with and the most informative…….. I’ll warn you, better post a pix of your bird or we’ll never believe you….lol

I believe for every 8 gallons of fuel burned an engine will produce 1 gallon of water as one of its byproducts. An engine that is allowed to get up to normal operating temperatures will burn off the moisture…. Lycoming changed something, my guess was to meet some EPA standards and it just didn’t work as well as the old way… I fuel up once I figure how much I can add, full seats makes for short hops…

Not here to bash MB or SA, but telling people NOT to fix something is bizarre to me. Pulling a cylinder is no big deal, IF and only if it’s done correctly. The ring flush may or may not work depending on why/how the ring is stuck, but saying it does no harm to the engine is BS…. You are using hydraulics to free things up, the only place for the carbon / crud to go is into the oil sump, with no oil in the sump it just sits there until the engine is serviced with fresh oil and ran…. What to guess where it goes after start up? Personally I would put cheap oil in and run the engine a few minutes then change the oil & filter looking closely for carbon/crap being flushed out of the engine…the “Ring Flush” document above is only moving the crud to a different place in the engine, not removing it. If worried about maintenance induced failure find a new A&P

Wasn’t the nose gear collapsed? ….. I heard bystanders got hurt from the debris flying when the train hit it

Rings stick for a reason, freeing them up with snake-oil may or may not last…. Pull the cylinder(s) and fix what caused them to stick… on @A64Pilot post about Bon-Ami, I watched a guy pour Ajax down the throat of a carburetor on a VW while at a height idle (had to keep it running) , 30 minutes later it quit smoking…… side note…several months later a con-rod put a window in the case… you be the judge

+1 for the Purple

That’s sucks your bird was damaged, even worse when the Ins Co tries to weasel out of the repairs. Never been a fan of using compressed air to drain the filter, big chance of blowing crap into the engine, would rather clean up what little oil drips out. Running the engine does make it drain better but the better benefit is getting the contaminates suspended in the oil and out of the engine

I have it at home, I’ll check back to see if anyone else has posted it

+2 for adel clamps along the oil sump…at least that’s they mine is

Pretty common hardware, if your only needing a couple ask one of the locals that work on their own plane, more than likely they will have some……. I hate paying shipping, so I keep a list of items I need/want and use it as “fillers” to get to the minimum for free shipping…. There 5 or 6 of us that keep a list and are generally out a the airport regularly so between us we can generally get an order together fairly quick

1130 hp out of 360 c.i. Is doable…… but the 2hr TBO makes it a little spendy… not a Mooney but the guy across from has an 0-360 rated at 145hp (didn’t see it on the list). It’s a strange bird, Piper Tri-Pacer, converted back to a Pacer (tail wheel) with Cessna 150 wings….

I like the 0-360-E1A6D at 1130hp…..

Nice….. your IA shouldn’t have an issue at all

Sounds like the vacuum pump gave up the ghost

Like @apriav I’m leaning towards a vibration issue……. How are they failing, and are the failures the same?

I’ve had carb ice several times in Conti’s…. Your safest bet is to follow the manufacturers recommended procedure…. On the Cessna I pull the carb heat way before reducing power, some on here use partial heat but I’ve never seen any official publication that says partial carb heat, it’s either On or Off for me. The O-300 in the Cessna makes 145hp on its best day, and will take off on a hot Texas day at gross with the carb heat ON.

was wondering the same, @carusoam said he talked to Paul and all is well

I’ll stick with fossil fuels….

I agree…… calling you pregnant wife wasn’t very wise….

Amateurs…. Went up in a 172 to shoot some approaches (3), it was dark when landing back home, safety pilot said “ land as gentle as possible…… the tow bar is still connected”. It’s now on the checklists in 3 different places…

Right brakes only?, asking for a friend

Lower cowl stays on….. it’s a straight pipe with the end cut and heated to form the part that goes under the filter. I remove the cowl side panels only…quick drain is on the left so this comes out the left as well, piece of hose on the quick drain and get it going, then loosen the filter and let it drain. If pressed for time I place a few blue shop towels under the filter before placing the PVC