Ragsf15e

Was this seal made from a J? Looks just like the one he made for the long bodies in another thread. Are they the same cross section shape? I gotta see what my F is supposed to have vs what this one is copied from...

Personally I’d do the cam and dlc lifters and be done. The cylinders and accessories can be done without cracking the engine case again and with it still on the airplane when they actually need it.

Bravo, ovation, or Eagle with TKS probably your best option to find. From the folks here, I hear the ownership costs between the Ovation/Eagle and the vintage models aren’t much different. Overhaul is more but over the life of the engine, the costs are similar. Ownership cost between Encore and Ovation/Eagle is gonna be really similar. Many more TKS ovations out there.

Yep, and by the time you add up all the unserviceable parts and outsource overhaul of the fuel servo, mags, starter, alternator, governor, etc, you might be wishing you’d have just done a factory reman from the beginning. Problem is, that’s a huge price delta from a simple IRAN for just the cam. I’ve worried about this as I have an 1100 hour, but older engine....

Yes, but if I remember right, the letter points down... like where you can’t see it. So it’s really hard (or impossible) to see if you’ve done it right. My mechanic put a line with a sharpie on the side opposite the letter and pointed that up. I swear they still burble out a little.

And therein is the problem... once it’s torn down you may be out of luck and choices...

Not directly avionics, but Garmin was hacked last year and it shutdown their ability to update navdata for several days. Possibly not hard to insert a bug into navdata vs shutting down big G website? I wonder if they paid....

I don’t doubt there’s a little oil there too, but that’s fuel. Maybe it shouldn’t, but my F looks about the same. Either the injectors are dribbling a bit (is the tiny air hole pointing up?) or the intake tube gasket is leaking a little. The airflow under there is crazy, so it might be from either cylinder and either place. Honestly, that doesn’t look terrible....

No, don’t change it! We’ve spelled it every possible way in this thread. We’ll always be able to find it with Google no matter how bad our spelling is!

Purely for operational reasons, I’d like an Eagle with TKS. No AC or O2 to weigh it down, just TKS. But like @MikeOH, the bank account currently doesn’t agree.

Actually I’m having this done as well. I got worried about getting the wrong paint stripper behind the crevices or blasting the fuel tank seals... I’m having Advanced at Troutdale do it. At least they know all about the fuel tanks! If the color doesn’t match perfectly because they’re not a paint shop, that’s fine. Just want it cleaned up and no corrosion.

I’ve got one from 2004 after a prop strike inspection. No documentation on why it was replaced at the time. What years you think are the “bad” ones @Yetti?

I’m actually a legit CFI-G... but I haven’t flown a glider in 25 years. I miss it. Have a 5.0 hour flight in wave too (ASK-21). Ran out of O2 at 3 hours, dropped down and had just enough thermals to hang around 2 more hours. Mostly in 2-33s and some 1-26 time. The 1-26s are awesome spinners!

I fly a Turboprop for work and use a pretty basic version of FF. I just built multiple user defined profiles for the airplane at various power settings snd altitudes. It’s only climb, cruise, descent, so not too difficult to figure and enter once. Now I have about 10 built and available. Plan my flight and pick the closest profile. I have them named so it’s obvious what they are planned for. TPs fuel burn varies greatly based on altitude and power setting, yet I’m rarely off by more than a couple gallons. I think this method would work fine for a TC’d Mooney at many different altitudes.

Step one of aircraft purchase/ownership is identifying your mission. Really try to work out the capability you’re going to use 90% of the time. It’ll help narrow/focus the potential field. Maybe a Mooney would work, but that means a Pilatus probably does too. You probably don’t want to parse through everything out there. So mission... is it 4 or 6 seats? Generally you’ll want 2 more seats than planned adults. What kind of range do you want and how much weight do you want to carry? The Toga is like a Ford Excursion. It’ll haul lots of stuff and has room to fit it. It’s also slower and uses more gas. The Ovation is more like a Porsche Macon. Smaller, a little less room, faster and more efficient. As a new private pilot, you might want to look into insurance first. With no ifr and no retractable gear time, that may be a limit. Not sure if a fixed gear Toga would be better since 6 seats adds to insure as well. Your size should not be an issue in a Mooney.

I’d be interested in knowing if they make a difference with your speed holding 120mph. Mine is an F, so a bit different, and no doghouse, but she’s very sensitive to climb speed and not very much to cowl flap position. 100 mph yields hot chts, 120mph is cool no matter what. I also lean to target egt on the way up, so it’s not super rich.

I loaded the new databases and haven’t had an issue. The “new” method of loading them from Garmin is nice once you get it working, but doubt that will help your current issue. The “new” way has a small program loaded on your computer. First you open an internet browser and login to the Garmin website, select update, then it will open the local program to download and transfer the data to the card in one step. It’s not as seamless as Jepp, but it’s not bad.

I’d have someone with a C and moveable cowl flaps try a climb with them open and then a similar climb (same leaning, same speed, oat, rpm etc) and see if it makes any difference in CHT. I have moveable flaps on my F and I move them out of habit and because the checklist says to, but I don’t get the impression they do much for temps. However I haven’t tested it very well.

There’s a lot to this discussion, but one thing to try to wrap your head around... your purchase price and future sale price will be much less than your yearly cost after just a few years. Buy the $100k airplane, spend $20k/year for 10 years. Sell for $120k. You’re down $80k plus inflation. It has to be enjoyable because it’s definitely expensive. No, they don’t cost $20k/year every year, but at some point you’ll do $30k avionics or $40k engine. You will have years at $10k for 100 hours, and you’ll have years at $40k for 50 hours. It’ll average out in the $15-$20k per year ballpark. Maybe more for your insurance as a non ifr pilot and for a hangar on the west side. I have an F in Spokane and my hangar is cheap compared to what you guys have.

If it’s the limit switch, definitely clean/lubricate the plunger and make sure you’re getting full compression of the switch by the gear. And full extension. That being said, I called Dmax about mine and he said cleaning it will probably work for a while but the switches do fail. They aren’t terribly hard to replace (Dmax told me that though...).

Or possibly turning real tight during taxi. You could have easily drug a tire.

Well smooth is one thing, adjusting them down or not alarming definitely something different. I agree jpi can’t set different limits, but there are several indications on the JPIs that benefit from “smoothing.” Some are software, some are “snubbers”. If this jpi install is new, he’s probably got latest software. The only snubbers I’ve heard of are for fuel pressure and manifold pressure. Is there anything to smooth rpm? I haven’t heard of anything.

I’m sure you’ve thought of this, but salvage yards, Alan Fox, Lowen Salvage, etc? If you already have the AP installed with the stc, do you just need the servos or a new stc paper? If just the servo, there’s got to be a place. How about the shops that rebuild them? Ask them where to find one?

There is a nice diagram of the electrical gear system in the mm. You can probably use that to figure out what’s required to turn that light on. I have had some “delayed reaction” issues with my gear, but it didn’t move at all, until it did. Those were apparently caused by the up/down limit switches sticking. They are wired into many parts of the system. They are under a panel in the belly and pretty easy to find/lube which seems to have solved my problem for now (k.o.w.). So sorry I can’t be of more help.

Additionally, I don’t notice any difference on my preflight mag check from before I had the SF installed. Still ~25-50 RPM drop. I also watch egts and see uniform rise in them. If your SF is set to advance timing, you’ll start to notice some difference as you climb below about 25”MP. Say above 5000’ or so. I noticed slightly higher temps. Maybe 10deg f each cylinder at the same fuel flow. The changes are very subtle. Cruising ROP it’s pretty hard to notice any difference but maybe you’ll see the slightly higher temps. LOP, I do see slightly higher speeds (maybe 2-3 kts) at a similar setting in degrees LOP.