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Ragsf15e

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Everything posted by Ragsf15e

  1. Definitely. While you’re doing this, the less probes, antenna, etc, the better. No need to make it look like a porcupine!
  2. Well to be fair to both of us, it’s on both sides. There are fuel tank senders entering the cockpit from both the left and right wing.
  3. When you’re talking about stationary boundary layers one molecule thick, paint chips and no wax is probably like big draggy bumps to the moving molecules above the stationary ones.
  4. When you say pushing on the key, you’re pushing IN firmly, right? Not just to the right hand, “start” position? It sounds like the SOS was firing. Obviously it didn’t turn over, but the SOS was going. Id probably give the mechanic one more try, but have him sit in the airplane with you while you start it (or it doesn’t work) so you are on the same page.
  5. Ahh, good choice. Mine has been solid too. Not as much new technology/modes as the gfc500, but definitely good. Only thing that gives me pause is that it will eventually die and possibly be harder to get parts for. Right now there’s nothing out there to replace it with unless you go with a Garmin panel/gfc500. Some folks have combined a g5 with an aspen to run a gfc, but it’s kind of kludged together.
  6. A few people have said their shop mounted the probe in the fresh air intake on the left or right cowl. It’s easy to wire there but not great for accuracy. You can just look in those and see it if it’s there.
  7. Probably all over the place, but make sure you agree with your shop. My jpi probe is about a foot out the left wing, 6” behind the leading edge on the bottom. Seems like a good place, shaded, outside prop wash, not near exhaust.
  8. So you’re looking at probably removing both seats and the lower sidewall which is typically by the pilots left thigh. Also the carpet around the fuel selector. Probably gonna need to look at the bottom of the fuel selector as well. Good luck!
  9. If you do a major upgrade, what autopilot are you going to use? Garmin has the only approved new technology autopilot out there and it requires their display to run. In my opinion (which is worth it’s price), it’s not worth doing a full fledged upgrade without a full function autopilot. Couple that with good integration of Garmin units... what other options are there in the same ballpark that are approved for our aircraft?
  10. You guys and your TAS readouts! I don’t think those Aspens have the IAS to CAS programmed in there, so you can likely subtract a couple kts as @Marauder alluded to. But yeah, 142ish at gross, 147 kts at ~2500lbs, 150-151 light. Those are rich of peak, 10,000’, 201 windscreen, cowl closure, mid time engine, 3 blade. I know you said “stock” engine in the original post, but a rajay turbo on the stock engine is the best speed mod there is. You can then cruise at FL200 which will get you much better tas in an otherwise stock F.
  11. Never ever share that with my wife.
  12. Awesome! You’re gonna love it! What autopilot do you have? That setup kind of locks you into a current stec or gfc500 (which is awesome). Good luck with the upgrade!
  13. I’d hate to start a civil war on here, but after my annual at Top Gun several years ago they straightened all the rigging. On the test flight it rolled pretty hard. Tom R. Used duckbill pliers to very slightly bend the aft edge of one aileron (unnoticeable). She’s flown straight ever since. I don’t think we’ll find that in the manual, but they had already rigged the airplane first. Edit: it is in the manual! Top Gun definitely knows Mooney!
  14. I broke the 50amp aux bus breaker while trying to remove it. The 50 amp ones get expensive. I was just trying to clean and secure all the wiring. I guess what I’m saying is the CBs are pretty delicate and the wiring is pulling from several directions. It’s tough to maneuver everything around without stressing some of the parts.
  15. Congratulations! Aircraft ownership is awesome 95% of the time! I just meant two GI275s. The GI 275 is compatible with your kfc150 autopilot, whereas the G5 is not. If you were to replace your instruments with 2 GI 275s, you could remove all your legacy 6 pack gages. Adi, hsi, asi, altimeter, vsi, etc. Depending on other system requirements (speedbrakes?) you might also be able to get rid of your vacuum pump. The GI275s also back each other up and have battery backup. Enjoy the new airplane!
  16. Spruce has all the klixon varieties. Depending on amperage, $20-$75. Most of the small breakers are about $25.
  17. Cheap and easy to replace if you can reach the wiring easily.
  18. Thanks, I’ll do that next time out! Now maybe it should be in the pilot’s guide? Or possibly I missed it there...
  19. Curious, how did you know the battery was going bad? Was it not charging or did you let it run down and see how long it took? That’s one thing that gives me pause because it’s always charging, so it generally says 100%, but how long it actually would last without ships power is a guess...
  20. Ahh, I thought these were the long promised EMags which are available for the experimental folks. They self generate similar to a magneto, but have much newer electronic ignition technology. Since they self generate, you can replace both mags (experimental). They have supposedly been working on certified approval for a long time. But yeah, sorry, this is different.
  21. I thought these were the ones that self generate like a traditional mag? What are they using the batteries and alternators for?
  22. I’m still wondering if they meant this year...
  23. That definitely sucks. Sorry to hear. On the other hand, I recently had a Bose A20 start going intermittently on the microphone. Free shipping, free repair, free return within one week. No questions asked. The A20 was purchased in 2015 by a different person.
  24. And while you’re using the soapy water inside the cabin, try not to leave the steel tubes, spar or other expensive things real wet and covered with carpet, tape, etc...
  25. They all leak a little, and usually it’s no biggie. Sometimes is pretty hard to know for sure where it’s coming from because it blows all over the place in there, drains down, and a little looks like a lot. The posts above narrow down the normal places to look. That being said, I’d try to have the mechanic clean and narrow it down. Especially with the recent cylinder work. You’d like to make sure you don’t have an issue with that workmanship. Is this mechanic different than the person that did the cylinders? Hopefully?
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