Ragsf15e

Just to keep it the same as others... are you doing a new panel cutout as well or cutting up your current one?

No extra points for brick one at night! Following the PAPI/VASI/ILS to 1,000’ down is solid airmanship.

We should. I do. Well, when I remember to. If you fly ifr, it’s worth it as a way to potentially save yourself grief from the faa if you end up on the wrong freq and lose contact. However, Even if you hear an elt, locating it isn’t gonna happen fast or maybe at all. How long do we think it will be before a real search is started and how long to triangulate that 121.5 elt? The 406mhz has much better odds as they know exactly who’s airplane is sending it out and where (if you’ve registered your code).

Yeah you won’t have peripheral vision past the edge lights at night. You might not realize it during the day, but peripheral vision plays a lot into your sense of height during landing. Seeing the runway will definitely help, so more wide beam for sure, but don’t expect perfection at night. It’s more about repeatability and getting the airplane down close to the runway in the correct attitude. You’re probably not going to grease them all.

Alright, I won’t win the CB award, but I really like Plexus. Come on, $20 can lasts me all summer, probably close to a year! When compared with the rest of aircraft ownership it’s as cheap as it gets!

Ahh, I didn’t know some of the old ones had the cockpit switch. All the same, it’s a good feeling to be able to turn it on and send gps coords directly to the satellites and the rescue coordination center vs just making a lot of noise on guard.

While ugly, I like the ability to activate the 406mhz elt from a button up front to ensure it’s activated before any off field landing. Especially in remote areas, you want there to be no doubt someone has a good idea where you are. That button helps me get over the ugly antenna.

I did this a few months back as well. What I don’t like is that the FAA registration has my full name and address available to anyone who types in my tail number.

I concur with 95% of this. I think you’ll be ok. Personally I don’t trust the airmets for turbulence though. Often they are for 20,000’ blocks or more and the turbulence is in a smaller altitude block or non existent. If you have strong west winds aloft in Colorado, there can definitely be bad turbulence all the way into Kansas, but I’d look for pireps, listen to the airliners, and ask the controller if there are reports of turbulence or a smooth altitude 14-20k. Make sure pireps are turned on in foreflight for display on your map. You can quickly pick up where actual turbulence, icing and wind shear are occurring as a final check.

I have also seen this. Mine has also done this before coming up. I actually called Dmax and talked to him about it. He suggested cleaning and exercising the limit switches in the belly. I did and it hasn’t happened again. Maybe one is sticking? However, could just be waiting to happen again soon as it was an intermittent issue.

Wonder who’s insurance pays that one. Ouch.

Copy. You’re probably correct about the cwa.

So do you have a garmin pfd displaying the current wind and tas?

Well now, wait a second... is that “no wind data” referring to the forecast winds aloft or is it referring to the current computed winds? If you have the proper sensors, like oat, g3x, g5, or gi275, etc, your system will display the current TAS and wind dir/velocity. Maybe there’s some kind of communication error in your oat or other sensors? On your status page winds/temps aloft are green. Usually you have to select an airport to see the winds aloft at different altitudes (via foreflight). Your CWA is white... is that Current Winds Aloft? Because that might not be fis b?

Are you talking about the gap along the flap hinge or that the ailerons are slightly up compared to your flaps?

Yeah, for sure. On my ‘68, the left cheek cowl could come off and the starter relay is right there attached to the firewall. Looks really easy to swap out too. Are the same metal relays still available or do we have to find tractor parts?

Exactly.

Another option is a Garmin gi-275 or g3x with eis. If you’re planning other Garmin stuff, their integration is really nice. They have also started Bluetooth download for your engine data which is awesome. I have a jpi930 and it’s nice but if I was starting from scratch and using mostly Garmin, I would use their eis.

The Garmin G5s have altitude select as well but don’t provide audio either. I think if you get the full autopilot you might get the altitude selection audio but I’m not sure.

I understand you have a budget, but I’ll tell you how I would spend your money. And yes, you’ll need to move into that van down by the river... You need to scrap 75% of that panel. If it works for now, fly it and see how the first annual goes while you save up. So... cut a whole new pretty panel with only what you need. My first choice would be G3X10” with eis and G5 backup. Plus two new navcoms. Unfortunately, I bet you have kfc or kap AP and can’t use the G3x/G5 to drive it. So if that’s true, 2xgi-275s and a gi275 or 7” g3x for eis. Plus the two navcoms. Either of these options is ~$30k +/-$5k, but you’ll be so much happier than piecemeal. Get an air mattress for the van.

Here’s a stupid question about the GFC500 installs on vintage airplanes... if you get the pitch trim servo and/or yaw damper, must you also wire an electric pitch and/or yaw trim switch? Or can you just manually turn the pitch trim when you’re hand flying? I wouldn’t want the expense or trouble of trying to wire electric trim for my hand flying, but the pitch trim is very nice when George is flying.

Did they say what year at Sun n Fun?

You can also try a couple of the cheap Amazon cigarette lighter usb chargers. I have used two different ones with no issues, but clearly some of them cause issues. Make sure you get the proper amperage rating for each usb socket or your iPad won’t be charging when on.

Bruce sold to Wisconsin Aviation Service or something like that. You can still find it by searching spatial interior.

I think that depends on what your panel looks like and how nice you want it to look after. 2xgi275s can slide into existing holes and look pretty good. If you want a g3x and a g5 backup, I’m thinking you’re in for a new panel.