BRBENNETT

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About BRBENNETT

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Reg #
    N6452Q
  • Model
    M20F

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  1. Ran AC traces at 1500 RPM and fully loaded electrical system. 1.96 VAC PTP. At lower load, 1.6VAC. Plane Power says 1 VAC is max allowed and tells me diode failure. Trace attached.
  2. Mystery still unsolved. went thru my entire panel looking for loose / broken wires & found nothing. I decided to take some traces of the DC with an Oscope. According to everything I have read, this should be a straight line, but, I am seeing 1.92v peak to peak, 387hz. I have attached pictures of the traces. Let me know what you guys think.
  3. Hello, I am hoping to collect some suggestions on how to resolve an issue that just popped up. I am getting "noise" in the form of alternator whine and others. The only electrical items touched in the annual were removing the battery and a new set of spark plugs. Though I know the plugs are really not part of the electrical system, they are grounded to the electrical system. Here are a description of symptoms: Whine / noise only occurs when the alternator is online, meaning, the main breaker for the alternator is on AND the enable breaker is on. When either one of these is pulled, the noise goes away. I can also hear other noise when switching on/off an item like a landing light or strobes. The noise remains when switching mags, IE It is present in BOTH, LEFT, or RIGHT. The noise is barely noticeable when just listening. it is horrid when I press the push to talk button and of course this noise is transmitted to ATC. Alternator works perfectly. Items I have reviewed / inspected: Inspected all connections to mags, alternator, regulator (even swapped this out with a new spare I had), etc. Disconnected, inspected, retorqed all battery connections. Removed, inspected, reconnected all spark plug wires. Checked all antenna connections on back of radios. Alternator -- put RMS digital meter on system, the only AC passing was around 200mVAC. I am leaning toward the spark plugs. After I reconnected the spark plug wires and started up the comms were clear. I immediately shut down thinking I beat the problem. I started up a few days later only to find it again. Has anyone experienced this and have any suggestions? I know shielding / grounding is critical on ignition wires and I have not thoroughly inspected that aspect of the harness. Could the ignition system be radiating noise to the alternator? As I mentioned, everything worked perfectly up to annual. Thanks to everyone in advance! Feel free to ping me with any questions if you think you can help.
  4. Call Paul Beck, WeepNoMore. Last price was $3500 per wing which is a strip & seal. Uses chemical process. It’s so good that Mooney adopted his seal methods for new production.(320) 295-1671. Great folks, they know Mooneys!!
  5. Find a good Mooney service center and develop a good relationship. Whenever I had a non-Mooney shop work on my plane they are always calling the service centers to get repair information, thus, taking up more time and billing out more time. Service centers generally have Mooney parts in stock or know where to get them fast. I don't evaluate the cost of the service / repair as much as I evaluate the time it took to fix it or do an annual. Taking 2-3 weeks for an annual is absurd and that has been my experience at a non-Mooney facility. For my annuals, I fly from KY to Wilmar, MN (Oasis Aviation). They are a service center and I hang out with them for 1-2 days for an annual. These guys are good, they know what to look for because they are the experts!!
  6. Flying without a PC or auto pilot on a solid IFR trip is exhausting! I owned my Mooney M20F for about 4 years, around 600 flight hours. I made some long trips with some of them in solid IFR nearly the whole way. The one trip that convinced me to spend to $$ on an autopilot was a flight from Washington DC to Georgetown, KY. 2.5 hours in soup without any horizon reference! The autopilot saves your mental ability during cruise so you have plenty of bandwidth for the approach. I still, however, fly my approaches by hand. Not that I don't trust AUTO, I just like the challenge & satisfaction of flying a procedure. Installed an STEC 30 system, 2 axis w/altitude hold -- money well spent! To date, I've logged over 1400 hours in this bird!
  7. I've had my F for 10 yrs, 1500 flight hours! Enjoy, it is an awesome airplane. I have done about everything you can think of to this plane, paint, avionics, interior. I'm going to fly it, fly it, & fly it!!
  8. I paid $7k back in 2010 to WeepNoMore. Paul Beck is the owner and really knows his stuff. Well worth it! Subsequently I had a leak and they took care of it. Great people and they know the Mooney aircraft very well. http://www.weepnomorellc.com. I would definitely work something out with your seller to negotiate on the price.
  9. If you can somehow create the geometry, 3D printing is a great option
  10. Bruce is a great guy! I flew my F model to Willmar last year and the two of us knocked out the project. You will learn a lot from him. Have fun!
  11. Don't let ATC affect your decision for safety and operating limitations. When ATC gives me the same instruction, I respond with my performance limitations and tell them what they are going to get for approach speed.
  12. Mooney M20F, Lycoming IO360-A1A I thought would put this out there for some advice & feedback. Recently I had my mechanic examine my engine and he mentioned pooling of oil and possible cylinder glazing. Cylinder glazing is a condition that occurs where oil film left on the bore "glazes" to a hard coating and can prevent optimal sealing of ring to bore. The oil here is the result of cylinder head temperatures, CHT'S, not getting hot enough to burn this oil film and. thus prevent the glazing. Optimally, he says, the CHT'S should run about 360-380 F. My engine is seeing a range of 300-320 deg F with an OAT of around 34 F. This is with cowl flaps completely closed all the way, they are closed and flush with the rest of the cowling. All cylinders are running about within 10-15 degrees of each other & measured by JPI930 engine monitor. Of course, my goal is to get these temps into the suggested range. Just wondering if anyone is running into the same issue? what temps do you typically see? Has anyone found a way for the cowl flaps to create more flow restriction? has anyone done anything with engine baffling as to affect the cooling of the engine? Thanks for any feedback. 04/19/2018 -- ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: Thanks for everyone's feedback! what a great resource! I thought I would share what led to the inspection of the cylinders and a give a clarification of the above statements. On a couple of occasions, a ramp guy took notice of a puff of white smoke when taxiing up the ramp. Curiously, I mounted a go pro camera and focused it on the exhaust to try and observe it myself and of course, it never showed up. Recently, I pulled the cowl to check a few items and noticed oil coming out between the exhaust manifold and tube flange at cylinder#4. I immediately sent it in for service and it ended up being a bad valve guide. With all that said, cylinder#4 has undergone a rebuild and will require break-in, hence, the recommended higher CHT's. After clarification and reading all the great comments, this is why he mentioned the glazing and the importance of running higher CHT's. My fault on the interpretation. Fortunately, I do not have any cylinder glazing as all cylinders. were checked at this time. For those that asked, oil consumption has been in the normal range. I have 2 years of history (about 400hrs worth) and it ranges from 0.10 to 0.15 qt/hr. This looks to be well below even what Lycoming says is normal. I found this formula in their manual Normal Oil Consumption (Qt/hr) =(0.006 * BHP * 4) / 7.4. At a BHP of 0.59, this equates to 0.19 qt / hr. Compressions are all good ranging from 77 to 80. One question I do have for all of you, When do you typically add oil? Do you wait til it gets down below the 6qt mark, or, do you add it when it is hovering just above around the 6qt mark? I have been doing to latter. I have heard that these engines typically find their happy spot and then do not vary much. I may be adding too early as it may stabilize at 6qt. Any thoughts here appreciated.
  13. I installed this instead of the boot. Very easy to install and looks good. See picture, sorry didn't have a full view. Pemko Door Bottom Sweep, Clear Anodized Aluminum with 1" Gray Nylon Brush insert, 0.25"W x 1.875" H x 48" L https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NB1FL6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  14. Try Aeroleds.com. I put a full set of wingtip strobes, sun tail light, and PAR 46 landing light. VERY Pleased!
  15. Pockets are held in by an automotive push in type fastener. The leather seating and carpet interior was supplied by SCS Interiors, https://www.scs-interiors.com. Really nice folks. I removed & shipped my seating to them for the leather seating job. You order the carpet online. I think they will send you swatches if you want. After you order, they email you drawings of the carpet so you can verify fit into the plane. Mine came in and I do not recall have to make any mods.