Ragsf15e

Some installers go the easy route and stick it in a cabin fresh air intake somewhere on your cowl (pilot side on older airframes). It should be outside the slipstream and shaded. Typically under the wing, a foot or two outboard. My jpi probe is a under the wing, pilot side.

I actually did have a question... which side of the bracket are the fatigue indicators and the initial stress fractures from forming the part? It seems to me that the offset in the rod connection (assuming the rod is under tension) would put the “pilot side” of the bracket in compression and the side of the bracket that faces the copilot side in tension. That copilot side is very hard to clean, paint, and inspect because it’s between the trim rod boot and the rod connected to our failed bracket. If the failure started on the joint facing out the inspection cover (pilot side), It would seem there was some torsion or something else going on there to start it. Looking closer at your pictures, it looks like the inside joint I think? Near the top too. I wonder if that rod could be at an unplanned angle or something?

YGBSM! I just got a “like” about an electrical explanation from a real live electrical expert! This may be my best day ever because I’m generally EE challenged and have been trying hard to learn!

Just be careful about saying “it’s not working”... the way it’s connected in various type aircraft is different. For older Mooneys it is reading amps to/from the battery, NOT total electrical load. With the engine running, you’ll have just a few amps going to the battery which looks a lot like 0 on the old gages - no matter how much electrical load is on the whole system. Also, when you’re starting, you have minimal electrical load before hitting the starter so it looks close to 0. You turn everything on after the alternator kicks in and it just shows the amps going to the battery (only a couple amps). I suggest you turn everything on (pitot heat, lights, etc) without the alternator/generator running (engine off or pull the regulator cb). You should see a bigger discharge on the amp meter.

It’s a little spooky. If it was nicely corroded, we could all blow it off by saying ours is in a hangar, cleaning it, inspecting it, spraying acf on if or whatever. It appears it’s a fatigue issue and would be really difficult to prevent. I’m glad it was controllable, but I don’t want to be next! How much did the repairs cost? Where did you get a new bracket?

Dude, thanks, that’s awesome. One of us needs to buy your guys a 6 pack.

I think that depends on the installation and the A&p. Once they’re cutting out panel space and connecting to avionics (gps and audio alerts) some A&Ps will defer to an avionics shop. For a simple, straightforward monitor I agree with you though. Maybe cgr-30p?

Yeah, mine will get pretty cold as well lop. Especially at higher altitude, lower rpm and cold OAT. My Surefly actually helped that a little and it stays in the 330f range lop now.

If you have a good engine monitor with cht and egt for all cylinders as well as fuel flow, you can do better than the standard settings. It all depends on what you’re looking for-speed, efficiency, noise reduction, low fuel flow (loiter), etc. Additionally, you can keep your engine happy and healthy by keeping appropriate cylinder temps and your plugs lead free by proper leaning (usually on the ground). Step one is having an engine monitor though. Do you have one?

Was it running really cold CHTs lop?

Interesting. Nice airport in a nice place too. I guess it makes sense, there are less airplanes and pilots in service than there were 25 years ago. There’s probably vacancy somewhere.

Your airport has empty hangars?! We’re on long wait times around here.

I’ve used peak egt as well but usually up higher. When you use it at ~6500’, what kind of CHT are you ending up with? Are you leaning until all 4 are peaked and just leaving the richest one at peak so the others are slightly lop? I’d like to try that myself but don’t want to end up having a cylinder 25 rop or real hot.

Ooh, quick research says that a panel mounted receiver may not exist? Maybe trade/sell the -330es and put in a -345? Might be worth going with sentry for a while and seeing if you really want traffic on the 530 and audio alerts?

Interesting. I have very similar, 2xG5 and 430w. I like the traffic on my 430. It’s useful. Also, I get audio warnings if I get really close to someone. The weather information will be displayed on the 530w too, but it’s probably more useful on a tablet. Radar data is ok on the 530, but TAF/METARS are tough to read. If I was you, I’d find an installed, certified setup that can feed your 530w and give you BT and adhrs to your tablet. Which GDL is that guys? I used the gtx-345, but you already have the -330, so don’t need a new transponder.

A GNS530 will have the same support as a 430W. Navdata supported, but unknown how long Garmin will support them with parts/maintenance. They are good units. They work well. They can do almost anything the newer ones can. The problem is the installation cost for a 430 or 530 is similar to a Garmin GTN 650 or 750. Yes, purchase price was less for the 20 year old 430/530 technology, but you paid a lot either way, and then you’re left with old technology at the end of its supported life. If you currently had a 430 and it died, slapping in another 430 probably makes sense because there’s no install cost.

The key point of the installed system is displaying the adsb in information. Do you have glass that would be good for this? G3X, G500, GTN650/750, GNS530w or GNS430W, Aspen, etc? If you have one of those, it might make sense to get a system installed. I have traffic on my 430 and I like it. The weather isn’t very useful on the small screen. If you have nothing installed to display it on and you’re planning to use a tablet (which is a good solution), just buy another Sentry and be done!

Mine was ~5lbs saved (total) by removing vac pump, standby vac system (manifold pressure based), and adi (gyro). Had to add back in the weight of the new electronic ADI and whatever components it needs.

Yes, the navdata will likely be supported for a good long time, but it’s unknown how long Garmin will support the (already expensive) flat rate repair if your 430w fails in any way. Additionally, there are no more waas upgrades.

Additionally, the GNS430W is still supported. You can get NAVDATA subscription from Garmin or jepp. They are fine, but I probably wouldn’t pay to have one installed as they may not be supported for much longer. Better off with a gnc355 as Skate mentioned. Or GTN650 but that’s more $$.

My ‘68F has something that looks very much like the OPs part... And for @PT20J, same type nut as yours.

Call Parker. https://airspeedinsurance.com/about/ It’s gonna be tough to get and pricey based on your time.

Sheesh, that’s a scary one. My ‘68 F is in annual right now and I’ll take a look at it for sure. Did we ever figure out which year/models have the same/susceptible attachment as the one that failed?

Realistically, my F is 145-150kts at your 5000’ power setting. Depends on weight. So you might gain a few knots but not much. I’m in for a new cylinder right now (chrome flaked off) and a new one is $2500. OH quotes are ~$2k. I’d stick with what you got instead of upgrading to angle valve cylinders.

It’s relatively common in higher performance/bigger airplanes. Just something you get use to planning for. Unless you’re doing pattern work before departing xc as @kortopates mentioned or making a short flight with lots of people and extra fuel (long range alternate?), it usually solves itself. Well, maybe trying to ferry cheap fuel across state lines after taking some hefty neighbors for $100 hamburgers?