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ltdriser

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  1. I’m not sure where I missed this during training but I’ve never been taught to check mags after flying, only during initial run up. I will say though, after all this I will be checking at the end of my runs. Who knows how long I’ve been pushing the plane back with a hot mag.
  2. Well, checking the P-Lead operation this morning is showing basically what we have experienced. Normal operation when cold. Left P-Lead is grounded in OFF and R. Right P-Lead is grounded in OFF and L. No real obvious signs of p-lead degradation. There’s a connector with the heat shrink failing on R p-lead but I think that’s more coincidence. I was thinking I’d maybe see some resistance in L P-Lead to ground which may manifest as an open circuit when hot. Didn’t really see that.
  3. It seems like the plane could skate by the AD pretty easily as I have only noticed it after running for an extended amount of time. Normal mag checks after taxiing for 10 minutes do not show the issue.
  4. I noticed the other day after a flying for a couple hours and leaving my friend’s airport when I checked my mags I had one mag without a 100rpm drop. There was no drop. Instantly thought well hell, p lead issue…probably came loose or something. The odd part was mag checks at the other airports were fine all day. Fast forward a few days I go out to fly and and confirm I’m not going nuts. I do my mag check on the ramp before taxiing out and sure enough mags check out just fine. I fly for ~hour and bring it in and decide to check while hot, no drop on the R mag ignition position. At the direction of my mechanic, I switched the ignition switch to OFF and confirmed the engine kept running. Hot Mag. Have you guys ever seen a mag act normal when cold then act up when warm? Is that generally a p-lead thing, internal mag issue, or ignition switch?
  5. Wet plug front bottom passenger side with some chunks of lead in it. Cleaned it out and she runs much better now. We did find a spark wire chafing through its braided steel sheath during my investigation on pilot side top front cylinder plug. So that will need replaced.
  6. Thanks for the tips guys! I only ran 15 seconds because in the past that’s all I’ve ever needed.
  7. During run-up this morning I swapped to the L mag and got a pretty noticeable stumble and ~250rpm drop. R mag was working just fine, smooth and 100rpm drop. I tried to clear the L mag by leaning out on the ground, set RPM to 2000 and let her sing. After a 2-3 15 second runs and mag checks I gave up. No avail, back to the hangar we go. I plan to pull cowling, find the suspect plug and give it a good inspection/cleaning. My thought was to run the plane on the bad mag for a minute or two, remove the cowling at pit crew speed, then identify the cold exhaust. Narrowing down the cylinder is first order of business, unfortunately I don’t have a fancy engine monitor. Is this a technique any one has done before? Maybe there is a better technique? Tips and Tricks appreciated!
  8. All back together and purring like a kitten. Got a good XC in today, feels good to be back in the saddle after over a month of back and forth.
  9. Correct, that is how it was acting when I took it in for repair.
  10. When we originally spoke it was sounding like a bad switch. I was adamant that they tone the switch out and confirm or reject it’s operation as i started to get the feeling we were about to throw parts at it. The switch toned out good which led them down the path of investigating the wiring and found there was a wire tied to 12vdc where it should have been to 0vdc. I didn’t ask much further as to how that would explain how the switch was acting. I suppose I could take a look at the circuit with what they explained then try to tie that back to what was occurring. It would be really cool to get some schematics with red marks but in my experience those are as rare as hen’s teeth.
  11. Final update, I hope. A&P did some investigation and found a misplaced wire when the relay was installed. They fixed and I am told everything is back to operating properly!
  12. I’m pretty well convinced that it’s a wiring issue. However, I’m curious why with this particular set up I cannot run both the SOS and starter in parallel. You’d think that should still function as that’s how it would operate when wired normally. I’d just expect my inputs to activate the wrong things. I’m missing a bit of the “how it works” info. The mx manager and I are becoming quite acquainted.
  13. Mine is definitely spring for starter engagement and push for SOS. I’m assuming SOS is the sound I’m hearing. I just double checked in the owners manual. Push to engage starter - spring for SOS. That’s concerning.
  14. Another update! Went to the field. Turns out the starter does work woohoo! But she still won’t start. Boo! I cannot engage the SOS and starter at same time. The starter will turn when I turn the key all the way to the right. As soon as I push in the key for spark the starter stops. The two need to work together and it seems I can only get one or the other.
  15. Yeah, I mean as far as I know I’m pushing it in hard enough. I’ve never had this problem before, and have many hours in the plane. Maybe I ought to give it a little more oomph. The odd thing is. It seems like it is bumping the starter right as I let off of pushing in. If you watch the video closely you’ll see the prop move to the right just a touch just as I let out of the key. Additionally, you can zoom in on the voltmeter and see the volts jump up to ~20vdc right as I let out for a split second.
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