Ragsf15e

The temps you mention aren’t cold and wouldn’t affect the prop as @Shadrach mentioned. Sure looks like prop grease but we can ask our prop guy @Cody Stallings. It is good to let your engine warm up at idle before runup, 100 degrees oil temp is a common number people use. Im in Washington state, so much colder than you, but I’m always at 100+ by the time I hit the runup area. Unless you runup immediately after start, I doubt you need to worry too much about letting it warm (but you are right to verify it). A short taxi usually does it since your cooling airflow is limited on the ground.

Cruise was an excellent time for that to happen if it was going to happen anyway. Much less pucker factor and many more options than anytime you’re lower or slower.

Spot is another option, but no ahrs and i think you have to leave it plugged into usb. However it’s tiny and cheap. I kind of like Sentry.

Don’t let me be the Debbie Downer and stop you though, I’m just glad someone is actually interested in making parts for us! The NBS is probably a great place to start. I think the Ram air boot might be another possibility, but I have no idea how difficult that one would be to manufacture. @GEE-BEE AEROPRODUCTS mentioned making it in silicone but he was talking about tooling and preorders and it didn’t sound like it could happen without someone stepping up with a large order.

How’d you know you were going 160??

Additionally you might want to survey the fleet and see how many already switched to the Eaton model because it seems there are already several that commented in this thread. How many Plesseys still exist?

They owe you a case of beer. Or maybe switch to blackstone.

You can definitely see what kind you have, but that “advisory” just says theres a new battery pack version available. Nothing wrong with the old ones. Nothing to check.

Peter Garrison has an article about it in flying mag a couple months back. He was skeptical about some of their claims from a technical standpoint but not entirely pessimistic.

All the other guys had good advice. I’d go vfr above them as well. Just have a plan for being denied entry if you plan on using any class B (maybe during descent) because it’s a definite possibility.

Thanks, that’s helpful. I’ve been wanting to find a Mooney friendly shop in the NW. Does he have the tools and knowledge to adjust the gear properly in your opinion?

Speed depends a lot too… if you fly a jet you probably see less ice at different times than a slower prop.

Yeah it’s definitely more rare that cold, but I’ve seen it at -25. A friend who has a cirrus got into a really bad ice situation (at night no less) and swears he was still getting it at -30. He was pretty white telling the story and I believe him. Generally you are right that you can get out of ice by getting very cold though.

Buying all that stuff is the easy part. Now to the work…

I’d be interested in what a factory reman IO-390 is in comparison.

I definitely use that technique in my work airplane but it’s got a PT-6 and pressurization. Tough to count on climbing through a layer in a SEP if ice is sticking. You can lose climb rate quickly. I base all my winter cruise altitudes off temps at altitude. I want to see colder than -20c. Hopefully -25 or colder. Usually not a problem in Washington state in the winter. Typically you’re safe above 20,000’ or so. I believe the pilots guide to instruments (could be the weather one), says icing is typically found from +5 to -20c. I have yet to see it above 0, but definitely all the way to -20, maybe slightly colder.

See I get what your saying, but that’s like the tail wagging the dog. Just because it causes some short term pain for the airlines (and thus ourselves), doesn’t mean we need to hold up the whole spectrum. The airlines are businesses, they will adapt or fail, and while it seems harsh, that’s ok.

Glad to hear it! As you get more comfortable with your engine, consider the “non flooded” hot start technique most of us use. There is a (small) chance of a tailpipe fire when it’s flooded. If you try the standard hot start technique and miss the start, you can then move to the flooded start. Just my 2 cents after 7 years of ownership.

Ok, last time I bug you (today). Anyone know how to tell if the gascolator is an HE or a Dukes from the picture? Lasar has a kit I’d like to use at annual but they’re different for HE vs Dukes which were apparently both used in the 60s… Or do I have to take off all the damn screws again… ’68 F.

Not enough power tools or fire in your method.

It did seem to infer personal experience…

Very helpful, thanks. I went through the maintenance manual and the parts manual for my ‘68F and couldn’t find the o rings you’re talking about. Is there a different place to look? You don’t know the part numbers for them or the larger gasket around the bottom of the gascolater, do you?

Same.

Yeah, I’m sure you’re right, but I also don’t think we need to hold the 5g spectrum hostage to protect the airlines schedule. Obviously we shouldn’t disrupt them for no reason, but they’ve had to know this was coming for plenty of time. A little pain might cause them to make the necessary adjustments.

I was going to say the same thing. Mine were installed in 2012 and still going (~700 hrs). They are just now starting to get a little noisy.