Ragsf15e

I’m gonna beg to differ with @carusoam… You can definitely have blowby with good compressions. The oil that sits in the bottom of your cylinders will seal them pretty good for your compression checks. But when you’re running you can still have blowby. Chrome cylinders are notorious for that. However none of that would really explain your temps being this much different than everyone else. I have three chrome cylinders in mine and it definitely doesn’t run that hot. Fyi, chrome cylinders are orange painted around them. Again, I doubt you could get the oil that warm just through blowby without noticing a lot of oil useage.

Couple good questions above… do you have the plate behind the oil cooler to direct airflow? Also, what type of cylinders do you have? Are they chrome by any chance?

My F is similar. Very near TO setting.

Exactly what @PT20J said… I live in Washington, so by the time I climb to my normal cruise altitudes of 8500-10500, my NA engine is around 65% even at full throttle. If I want efficiency, I then set mixture just barely lop. There’s really no red fin up there. Now if you live in Florida and cruise at 4500’, you might want to look at it a little more closely because your full throttle mp is much higher and there’s probably some ff range where you could cause excessive heat/pressure.

Weird. Your oil temp does seem higher than most but not like dangerous high. I’ll be interested when you figure it out.

Chts seem ok. How high were you? 60s oat is good at low altitude but potentially warm if up high. I definitely notice a difference with the thin air at altitude not cooling as well, especially when warm. However I’m talking 10,000’ plus. Your chts and oat seem normal but you’re right, oil temp seems high.

So for the J with the above numbers, 65% is at 8.6gph. It’s certainly possible to run safe and efficient at higher ff and higher power settings but 65% is always safe from a mixture perspective. 8.6gph x 15.1 = 130hp 130hp/200hp = 65%

Surefly made starting very slightly easier both hot and cold but not a significant change for mine. I do not change the throttle or mixture from shutdown and she cranks right up on a hot start. Now if I go and actually flood it, yes, the throttle needs to start at full and come back slowly until it fires. Interesting that yours seems different than most of the other IO-360s.

Use the tge gmax link @carusoam gave. He’s got a good rep and a pulse on the fleet.

Have you played with cowl flaps in cruise and see if it helps? It only takes a small change to affect the pressure in the bottom and thus the airflow over the cooler. Maybe they aren’t set right? Also, maybe I missed it, but what are your typical cruise chts and oat? I see 180-190 oil temp in my F but I’m typically running chts ~320 (or colder) and cold oat since I’m at higher altitude (lower power) and in Washington.

Yeah check pitot system for leaks. Also there’s a pitot drain below the left wing root to check. Very small.

Here’s a link with pictures of a Dukes. All silver…

The older models have a dukes. Lasar has kits with diagrams for those too.

As others said, you’ll have to take out some of the interior, but it’s not real hard. Your looking for all the tubes/wires coming out of the wing root into the cabin. Very low on your sidewalls. Seats out, sidewalls out, look for blue.

Plexus is awesome, but novus #1 is also solid and less expensive (buy a gallon on Amazon). Need your own spray bottle though. https://www.amazon.com/Novus-Plastic-Polish-64-Oz/dp/B000RT30LK/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=1Y4YED7I25NMD&keywords=novus+1&qid=1648997428&sprefix=novus+%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-7

It shouldn’t be related to stall warning. They are not connected. The Airspeed switch works off pitot pressure and the stall warning is that small lever on the left wing. Doc gave you the manual page, but it should be around 80mph on your airspeed indicator. Don’t gear up the airplane in the hangar!

If any doubt, use hot start technique of not touching anything after shutdown, just cranking and increasing mixture when it fires. Always try this first on the 2nd flight of the day. 95% it works. If it doesn’t, and it’s been a few hours and likely cool, short prime, normal start. If those don’t work or it’s hot and you missed the start, use flooded. Follow that decision tree and you’ll be in great shape.

Did you also have the internal g5 gps off? Will it work on that one? Probably if it works on the g3x.

What do you mean?

Possibly, but if so, maybe they should have a different design on that feature.

Do you guys have a law to prevent chasing real property value on houses? Ie to avoid pricing out grandma who’s owned the house for 30 years? Seems airplane is different?

Also, it’s a backup. Like a total electrical failure backup…. Your other nav stuff will be dead. You just need to keep the clean side up with the adi, all the rest is gravy. Yes it’s simple, but if it does its job, that’s all I can ask. So far I love mine (although they are primary).

This even happens on the g1000 Meridian I fly… but not with concierge. It can hold the next db in standby and then update to it when the date changes. Unfortunately, when you start the airplane, it doesn’t have a date yet (gps isn’t fully up yet), so the first time you start after the date, no auto switch to the new db (this only pops up during start). You may be able to force a manual switch over but I’ve had medium success. Now the second time you start, it knows and it switches. So there i am taxiing a turboprop with the battery and both generators off to remove all electrical power trying to achieve my “second start” before my first flight after db change. For something so “automated”, it causes s lot of trouble!

I thought all the airplanes with radar altimeters were going to fall out of the sky with 5g… you want to add one?

Or just do the emergency extension checklist like you practice during annual and take a break halfway…