Ragsf15e

First part yes, but more than a couple psi. It’s pretty random, but say 17-31psi. Seems higher on takeoff power, but not largely different. Boost pump has no effect. Yes. I ran the BP with mixture mid range and it achieved and held 24psi as fuel flowed. No fluctuating. Yes, boost pump sounds normal except for the rhythmic part but pressure didn’t seem to fluctuate. I haven’t tried to listen to the BP with the engine running, but Ill try it next time out. I wonder if I’ll be able to hear it? I’ll also download the newest pressure fluctuations in the different conditions. Thanks for helping get my story straight!

The mech fuel pump on mine seems to be higher , close to 30psi, where the electric is at 24. My fuel pressure is pretty jumpy, and there isn’t really an change in psi when I turn it on/off with the engine running.

Yeah I let it run this time for about 15” instead of just a quick prime. It got up to 24psi and held it pretty solid. I was actually hoping it would be jumping around.

My personal technique has been to turn on my preheat the night before I fly in the winter. I have an sms power switch that i use to turn on a small ceramic heater. Set on low with a dryer duct up into the cowl flaps, it works well. Today though, I saw something hard to believe. Last week we were in the 20s for highs, and dry. 30s last weekend and still dry. Yesterday, an atmospheric river hit us and it was really moist and ~55. Today I went to my hangar. It’s insulated and weatherstripped but hardly airtight. You can see daylight through several places. Concrete floor. Metal all the way around, in the middle of a long row. The hangar floor and the airplane were straight up wet. Like water dripping off. It was shocking how much water. Even the tired were soaked all the way around. I can only imagine it was real cold and then that moist warm air hit it and condensed. Makes me wonder what happens inside the engine?? I was happy to fly it today and get it all dried out!

Thanks. I’m probably being too jumpy with it, but it doesn’t sound good to me. It’s pretty old too. I’m usually of the opinion that you shouldn’t fix it if it ain’t broke. After running it with steady pressure, I don’t think it’s connected to my jumpy fuel pressure but it might strand me somewhere this summer.

I’ve been slowly troubleshooting a fluctuating fuel glow issue, so I’m hypersensitive to the fuel system right now. This is a Weldon 8163-A 14V pump. I ran it today after flying to check the pressure without the engine running. Mixture and throttle mid rangr, so obviously fuel was flowing (and now my sniffle valve is also checked). Pressure was steady at 24psi, but it sounds bad to me. It doesn’t leak though. Last replaced about 18 years ago. Am I crazy for thinking of OHing the fuel pump because it sounds bad? Turn up volume for best results… https://photos.app.goo.gl/35kJCRQrkTy1HKDy6

Regardless of 2 or 3 axis, you probably want to budget for the trim servo. Technically you can do a 2 servo gfc500 but you lose a good bit of automation because it will just alert you that you need to trim every time it trys to level off or you change airspeed. I don’t see a good reason to leave out the trim function on such a capable AP.

Additionally, start the t/o roll with some back pressure (say “5lbs”). Speed and front weight conspire to push the nose down if you don’t hold some back pressure during the roll. If done properly and still takes a strong pull, try 1/2 turn nose up trim. Front weight needs to be on the nose up side of T/O trim.

I might also consider using a -650 instead of a -750 and a pma450b audio panel instead of a gma. I love the garmin gear, but the pma audio is superior. I’m sure I’ll get flamed for not wanting a -750, but if you plan to use an ipad with GP or FF as well, all that screen becomes redundant. And looking outside is still important too!

When I was running an Air Force T-6 squadron, two of my instructors took a Texan (the airplane) on a lunch run (training both ways of course) in South Texas. They were both very good instructors and somehow they missed seeing the dreaded FBO cone. It can happen to anyone. As they sat in my office and told me the story and awaited their fate, I could tell that they had learned a valuable lesson about vigilance. I had to punish them in some way, but I kept it relatively minimal and off their record. The front seat instructor is now a U2 pilot overseas. Learn from it, but don’t beat yourself up too badly, again, it can happen to anyone.

In most cases I think a -930 is overkill and a 900 works just fine, however, the PO of my airplane put a -930 in on the right side and it’s been awesome. Everyone that says it’s not readable over there needs to get their eyes checked. A Mooney panel just isn’t that wide and it works perfectly. Do I stare at it? No, but it’s plenty easy to have it in the crosscheck. The only thing I dislike about it also applies to the EI and -900. It’s outside Garmin’s architecture, so if you have other Garmin avionics, don’t expect them to work well (or at all) together. If you’re not using Garmin, both the -900 and-930 are awesome! (and yes, for all you guys that zoom in and look at GS, that’s 211 knots at 10,500’ in a M-20F with an IO-360! )

No, I’m with you on those. I’m strictly talking about a short field takeoff over an obstacle. What airspeed and config? Personally I pull up the gear, leave t/o flaps and fly “about 90”, but that’s purely my technique.

Still confused though… the chart says wing flaps t/o position and gives speeds for best rate of climb (Vy), not Vx, but it does give 50’ obstacle clearance. The text says best angle of climb “about 80mph” gear and flaps up, and the checklist calls for flaps up approximately 80-90mph. So if 80 is Vx clean (say climbing out of a valley), should we get both gear and flaps up quickly after a short field t/o and hold 80mph? If not, what speed do we use with some other combination of gear/flaps for obstacle clearance? Other airplanes i fly have an obstacle clearance airspeed for use in takeoff configuration. We just don’t have it spelled out quite as clearly.

Yes, or save the $$ and just get a non-ahrs g3x 7” and use it as an eis. That’s probably still more $$ than an edm-900 though.

Just another option… g3x 7” as an engine monitor. Bigger and remain in Garmin architecture.

I had a similar experience last summer when I went out of my way to fly over Mt St Helens… look guys, you can see down into a volcano and the top of the mountain is gone! Son (still looking at kindle), “is there any lava?” Me, “no, but look, the mountain is blown up!” Son, “can You help me get Tom and Jerry on?”

Yes and no. We’re pretty damn stingy with TV / screen time around our house. However, when we hop in the airplane for a flight to grandmas, we hand the 6 year olds their Kindles with movies, cartoons, etc. Peace and quiet ensues for the next 4 hours. As a bonus, my wife and kids want to go on trips all the time - wife because she gets to read her big books and kids because they get to watch movies. I just feel a little wrong/dirty that my kids want to go flying more (much more) for old spider man cartoons and Disney flicks than they do for the wonders of flight. I hope I’m not raising more people who never look up at the sound of airplanes going over…

it can be done, but it’s nice to have an experienced mechanic doing both removal and reinstallation.

One thing to consider… and I’m just throwing this out there because it’s impossible to tell exactly what caused what… when you lean it back pretty far and then add power, the engine may stumble and/or die. It will run at low power with the mixture much farther back than it will tolerate at higher power. I’m not saying you leaning it caused this because I wasn’t there, but it’s something to consider.

I agree with this as well, but he makes a lot of significant changes with the prop and throttle so it’s a little tough to tell exactly what is causing what. He’s also got the control quadrant which can make those changes “abrupt” if not done carefully.

There are a few threads of high fuel pressure after replacing the mechanical fuel pump. A few pointed to the wrong pump and/or internal pump spring I think but most were just a factor of the newer pumps sitting right at our max of 30psi. I have a new tempest from 2 years ago and it still sits right at 30psi. In that same thread, there’s documentation from the engine manual showing that it can handle much higher pressure. I agree his fuel pressure should be less than 30 and that should be looked at but I doubt it’s the actual problem. Now if my google-fu was good enough I’d find that thread for you…

Sometimes it’s tough to stay within the restrictions without overthinking them. Especially when the manufacturer doesn’t define “continuous” for us. Clearly it’s ok to takeoff and initial climb full throttle and 2700rpm. Even if you weren’t staying in the pattern, you’d leave that power setting up through 1000’ or more to give yourself options in case there’s an issue. In the case of a pattern, do the same thing, full power, full throttle to 1000’, level off, accelerate to desired speed (~110mph?) and then retard throttle to ~20” (or enough to hold DW speed. I think that will keep you within your constraints and is reasonably non-continuous. The 5 minutes restriction is not applicable in the pattern - your whole video was only 3 minutes and clearly not all at full power the whole pattern. I’m not telling you to disregard limits, but think through what you’re doing and why and make sure it’s needed. I think less power changes (throttle, mixture, prop) will help you know when something is actually going sideways. Personally, I would track down the fuel leak, fix anything found, and run the engine again before sending off the servo, but again, I’m not a mechanic.

Dude that’s awesome! But what pants were you wearing?

Yeah if it’s already running poorly, adjusting mixture isn’t terrible, but must folks are going to follow the standard technique of everything full forward, switch tanks, etc. Honestly, if you’re in the pattern, just getting it back on the ground soonest is your best bet. If I may (as a CFI, but only a shade tree mechanic…) - when doing patterns, there’s not much point in adjusting mixture or prop if you’re near sea level DA. Full rich, full prop, don’t touch them. If you’re at high DA and need to adjust mixture for full power, then do that prior or during takeoff (target egt method is one way). The engine is rated for 2700 rpm and full throttle and it’s the fastest way to get altitude. Then you’ll pull throttle back on DW but leave all else alone until further reduction to start descent. When you’re using like 5 power settings through the pattern, things get complicated and there’s not really a good reason for it. It will be important to identify exactly where the fuel is coming out because there are like 4 places down there that are designed to let fuel out. Try flooding the engine… there’s a drain directly below the servo tgat will pour fuel. Boost pump broken? There’s a drain for them. Find the one if it’s coming out there and follow it back to the source. Take pictures, post that info. Just my 2 cents.

I’m curious where you had mixture set throughout the pattern? It seemed like you adjusted it a lot? How about the prop rpm? Full forward the whole time? Possibly the fuel leak will tell you a lot when you find out where it’s coming from… or it’s coming out the sniffle valve? Or the fuel pump drain? Or the elect boost pump drain? It appears you have a nice airplane! Don’t get too down on it, engines can be sorted out and are eventually pretty darn reliable! My servo is at least 18 years and going!