Ragsf15e

Is your Ovation FIKI? In my opinion icing has been a bigger obstacle for my flying in the northwest than the mtns. If you’re flying west from Denver I can see the mtns being an issue though…

I guarantee I will now need a camlock and a plug, but I’ve had my F for 8 years and never kept spare parts. Actually I take that back, I do have belly screws and tinnermans but that’s because I replace those with new if they even look at me wrong when I take off a panel. Look at your ipc and get belly screws (maybe a couple types), inspection panel screws, and possibly cowling screws. Get a screwdriver with good bits and possibly a 3/8 stubby wrench to leave in the baggage just so you can always remove the cowling easily and look around. Otherwise put together a survival kit. Maybe get some proper cleaning products too. You’ll use them. Wash wax all blue and red. Microfiber cloths and plexus or novus 1 for your windows. Maybe some decent wax. All that stuff you’ll use. Parts? Definitely won’t need them if you have them on the shelf.

Interesting. You’ve obviously got smart guys looking at it, maybe @PT20J could comment too though? Seems that he knows more about the gfc500 and g3x than Garmin does at times.

I realize there are differences, but the G1000 i fly sets the ILS course when you load the approach (unless you’re using that cdi). So if you’re in a gps mode it’s set. I would expect it to be the same? What about when you activate the approach? BL - the AP mode shouldn’t matter, the GPS should set the cdi when the approach is loaded or activated.

Ha! I thought it use to have a pass/fail box, but clearly that was too easy. Now they make you read the fine print on page 1 and instead of “pass/fail”, they used a 45 word sentence to describe pass/fail.

Wow, I was wrong, I almost understood that! Thanks!

Yeah it’s a little, but do your best and I’ve found it to work well and be quick. Not too bad for the govt.

If you’re curious, pull your papr adsb report from yesterday and check out your results. https://adsbperformance.faa.gov/PAPRRequest.aspx

My poor understanding of EE thinks it can’t be “hotter”/stronger because we’re using the same plugs with the same resistance, but possibly longer makes it “stronger” as you say? @EricJ or @N201MKTurbo will come and write something perfectly reasonable that I have no chance understanding.

No problem. This is the one JPI recommended to me. It worked wonders. Here’s my caveat(s)… Garmin may have a different sensor than jpi. Also, I never found a snubber with a flare fitting, so I had to put an adapter on either side. Finally, make sure your manifold pressure line isn’t leaking somewhere. https://www.newark.com/omega/ps-8g/pressure-snubber-ss-1-8-npt/dp/31AC5909?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx7-e2v_Q-QIVevHjBx3MsAbpEAQYAiABEgIZrvD_BwE&mckv=_dm|pcrid||plid||kword||match||slid||product|31AC5909|pgrid||ptaid||&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-PMAX-LOW-ROAS-Shopping

A lot of electronic ones need a “snubber” on the line. “Omega snubber air” in Google will get you close. You’ll probably need adapters because the line has flare fittings and the snubber is 1/8”npt. This is from my experience with an jpi, edm 930.

Mine has been good too. Gen 1, advance timing, 14v. Time will tell.

We need a EE to chime in because there’s some difference in spark but stronger/hotter I don’t think is it. I think I remember longer maybe? They do recommend a different gap, so there’s something there…

Here’s from their website. They don’t call it “stronger”… PERFORMANCE SureFly Ignition Modules deliver a more consistent spark energy with higher accuracy than traditional magnetos. Variable timing advance provides SureFly customers real fuel savings. Low power consumption and light weight (up to 2 lbs. lighter than a Bendix magneto) make SureFly Ignition Modules light on fuel and light on the wallet too.

I don’t think it’s a “stronger spark”. I don’t even think Surefly claims a stronger spark (electroair does). I think it’s the timing difference. @aviatoreb did a loo mag check and didn’t notice a difference because his SF is set on fixed timing. Mine is on advanced timing which allows advance timing based on their semisecret MP and rpm formula. I think the timing is why there’s a clear difference in my lop check. You’re right, on the ground, there’s no difference in a mag check, because there’s no advance.

Maybe, but they seem much smaller when you’re digging through my faa approved shag carpets.

I would probably leave it alone too. There’s a reasonable amount of thermal inertia in the engine block and oil that those temps are likely actually different than the air temp in your hangar. You’d just be guessing where/how much to adjust it.

The reason for the jokes is that the “ball” is about .5mm diameter. It’s tiny. I found one once after my IA lost it. He’d already ordered the 100 pack like @N201MKTurbo. Probably smarter than looking for something that small in an old cockpit.

Surefly mag. It’s an electronic “modern”magneto. Works well for me. Some folks had issues with early 28v models. It can do some basic advance timing.

No doubt. Is there even a model that offered that as an option?

True, but many of the mechanical ones show no Red X when they or the vacuum fails…

No problem. It’s a frustrating issue because the air leaks (if that’s the cause) are invisible. Be careful and be sure about the torque on the servo bowl. It’s breakable and hard to replace. The spec is in the maintenance manual. Just be gentle and it’s ok. Good luck!

I tried to do a LOP mag check today and here's what it looks like with a Surefly in advance setting. I was only at 6,500' (~24.1" MP), so it would be even worse higher because it would have more advance. Egts went up when I turned off the mag, but not a lot and the engine was still smooth. Slight decrease in speed, but barely. When I turned off the SF, EGTs went way up, very rough, and airspeed dropped quickly (#2 plug may be a bit weak too?). I know yours is different since it's fixed timing, but since we were talking about it earlier, I'll post it here. Before switching back to both, I pulled power back to prevent the backfire as SF takes 5-10ms to come back online - you can see the EGTs all fall together at the end.

Flying gliders is great “hip pocket” experience when it gets real quiet and you need to pick a reasonable place to set it down safely. Glad you didn’t have to pull the wings and trailer it though! Well done.

I have had mine in there for a long time without updating them. They work great and I’d prefer to leave them alone.