Ragsf15e

Yeah that’s exactly where I was in the manual and I ordered those screws, exact part number, from spruce. They don’t look right. I’m gonna try truss head, I think you’re right about that. Actually I’m gonna wait and see a picture of the truss heads from @0TreeLemur when his arrive and go from there.

So I spoke to him today. Terminology may be slightly different, but I think he didn’t set the “internal” timing, just the mag to airplane timing. He described it as the internal parts wearing in and him resetting the engine to mag timing to match that. I’m only a lowly pilot, so I nodded and smiled and went flying. It ran strong and smooth, mag check was even now before flight where previously it only dropped about 20rpm on the slick mag due to the timing being advanced. Gami spread was 0.2ish at 10,500. Annual is done in one week! And I’ll keep an eye on the mag.

Yeah that’s tough. Mine is a 68. All the machine screws have nuts “welded” to the frame above the panel and they screw right in. The sheet metal screws in the forward section and the tinnerman nuts are a different story.

My problem is the #8x1/2 sheet metal screws for exhaust and other forward panels… the manual part number corresponds to a round head which doesn’t look like the ones on the airplane. The airplane ones look more like truss heads…

I was confused by the end of your post… aren’t all the screws that use tinnerman (“speed nuts”) #8? And aren’t they only the sheet metal screws, not machine screws? On my airplane everything aft of the panel just behind the nose gear has machine screws and the nuts are “welded” into place already in the frame. Those machine screw panels go in much easier. The ones in the front with the #8 sheet metal screws and tinnermans are a PIA. And that begs the question about why they switched screw types on the different belly panels?

Interesting. I think I’ll wait until you get yours and see. Do you mind posting a picture?

He did mention having to open it up, not sure if that means he did the internal?

Ill have to ask that when I see him tomorrow. Thanks for the input!

Just finished reinstalling all my belly panels after annual. Next year I’m just going throw away all the existing sheet metal screws and tinnerman nuts on the front panel and the panels under the exhaust & fuel pump. All the screws are different and the nuts are worn. Heres the problem, the manual says use AN530-8R8 screws but the head on those sits much higher (like pimples) than the existing ones which look like pan head or truss head from my brief research. What is the correct head type? Do I just accept that what Spruce says is AN530-8R8 with a very round head is what is supposed to be in there? Thanks!

I’m not sure if I agree with the SF causing problems above 6000’. I’m always above 6,000’ and mine has been great. I’ve had it as high as 15,500 in my na IO-360. I agree there’s not much Performance gain, but I certainly haven’t noticed any cht or other issues.

It did slip a lot, my IA said it was a lot too. The mag was overhauled about 175 hours ago and he attributed it to the points wearing in. Retimed it and good to go. I’m gonna try to fly it tomorrow. Much better than pulling and/putting in screws under the belly all day!

Totally agree with the weight being the majority of the issue.

I think you’re on to something. When we checked timings, mag was at 26 degrees, supposed to be at 20. SF is set to 20. Plugs are all gapped the same. Between those two things you’re probably getting close.

Did he make any posts…. Never mind, strike that. How many posts did he make during lunch??

Been there (FPS), but we generally try to call her Mimi. Mimi the Mooney.

I have an F and they are nice. If I found 2 comparable airplanes, one an F and the other a J, I’d want the J if possible. If the price isn’t right or the J isn’t in good condition, the F will do you good. The F cools just fine. It’s about 10 kts slower. Everything else is almost exactly the same. The J will obviously be a few years newer.

Jeez it sure does look like that doesn’t it.

What matters (usually) for setting your altitude is in the clearance you wrote down before takeoff and/or any amendment given by tower before takeoff. So if you use CRAFT (clrnc fix, route, ALT, frequency, transponder) to write down your clearance, then that Altitude is generally what you want set. If tower gives you a different altitude prior to departure, then set that.

Thanks. I just ordered them!

Possibly. Also right now try buying a Tempest fine wire UREM 38S. I ordered a couple in November from Chief. Nobody has them even now. Maybe in a couple weeks I keep hearing…

The bottom plugs were similar but much closer in color so tough to say for sure. The SF folks answered right away but didn’t have anything to add: “I don’t know why that would happen?”

Mine is on a 14v system so I didn’t have any issues with the power fluctuations that some 28v folks suffered. It also does provide slightly better LOP ops if you fly high where the advance is greater. I have pretty good data showing a couple knots faster LOP above about 8k. I am concerned about what it does to the plugs though.

I’ve also posted this question to SF so I’ll let you know what they say. Both the mag (overhauled) and SF were installed 2 years ago and now both have about 160 hours.

He just grunted, cleaned them, tested them and reinstalled the 3 that tested ok. One of the SF plugs was only firing intermittently. I can’t specifically blame the SF as those plugs are about 8 years and 800 hours old, so could have just worn out.

Yes. those 4 are all my top plugs, so 2 fired by the right mag and 2 by the Surefly.