Ragsf15e

Yes, it’s supposed to be recertified ~18-24 months. Mine is about that old. Still seems to be fine, but I think you can send them in for “factory overhaul “.

I have the older pro version and it’s great. I have it hung on my old “microphone clip” which is in my line of sight. The alarm is loud but not through noise canceling headsets. Expect to see some low values on the ground and maybe during climb (<20) but zero in flight.

Sensorcon is a good choice. There’s probably a discount available as well @DanM20C may know. It goes from 0 to 2000. https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Monoxide-Inspector-Detector-Portable/dp/B004YUEPBW/ref=asc_df_B004YUEPBW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312140380281&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15002458341707748687&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032382&hvtargid=pla-569992736801&psc=1

I’m surprised they used all that scrolling as well since you just hover over the flag on a g1000 and it pops up the metar. Possibly a real estate limitation?

I wish I had something more to recommend for you as I’m from Carson City and I’m there a lot, but I haven’t used any of the shops on the field. I think there are two in CC, but I’ve never spoken to them. Stead might be another place to look if you’re in Reno? Where are you keeping the airplane?

Interesting… this is no help, but that’s exactly the functionality of a G1000 if you activate the arrow cursor and move it on top of the flag. I understand you have touch, but is there any cursor function? What about with traffic? Can you touch traffic and get additional details?

Not specific to maintenance, but there’s an avionics shop in Minden people have been happy with (I have no experience there). I was based there for a summer though. KMEV is a good place to look for maintenance and I had a great experience with the city owned hangars there.

Any chance of checking them with someone far enough away while your engine , transponder, and other radio is off? You could eliminate most of the rmi sources and isolate the issue to the radio or to engine/alt/etc. Another option is to pull your field/VR CB and turn off most other stuff to see if that changes/helps. Isolate the problem to what’s causing it.

Awesome! Sometimes these fuel pressure issues are pretty mysterious. A little fuel drip out the sniffle valve after shutdown is indeed normal.

I’m not saying it isn’t true (see what I did there), but those computers are only based on the data available. IAS (not CAS), pressure, mag heading, etc. if you gained 12 knots from engine/prop, that’s awesome, but the only way to know for real is to do a 3 way speed run and input the ground speeds to a TAS calc online. Example… my G5 IAS reads about 153mph next to my original ASI reading 150mph. Less than 1% difference, awesome! Unfortunately, inputting either of those into the GTN will show me a TAS ~5kts -7kts faster than real life. If you want further details on how to do a 3 way speed check, ask. Otherwise, this Scrooge will shut up now and let us Mooniacs enjoy every last knot!

Not wanting my airplane at that one.

I also have that exact interface. It’s run into the baggage with the main wire bundle and then under the baggage carpet to right under the baggage door. Easy to reach in and plug in the minder. I leave the baggage door cracked in my hangar.

At least it’s not sitting in Florida. It’s not in a terrible climate there, so I’d have my fingers crossed and hope for the best while monitoring the oil and flying it a lot when you get it back. There’s not a lot you can do at this point. My engine has been down a few similar times since overhaul in 2004 and it’s been fine each time we got the chance to see lifters/cam. You might be just fine. Generally, oil analysis might see some additional wear metals on the first one or two oil changes but it should drop. If your cam or lifters spall, you might not catch that in oil analysis, but could see bigger chunks in the filter. I’d definitely inspect the screen and filter carefully.

Well that’s much better than the actual trim not working!

I think the one’s above are like mine (edm930) and most (all?) Mooneys came this way… with alternator working, it’s only showing amps to charge the battery - not total load. Should be only a couple amps (although mine is ~4). Without the alternator, it shows amps from the battery which is total load since the alternator is off. I bet you’re right about the edm having the ability to be set either way though. I fly a piper that shows total load all the time.

Awesome panel and interior!

@MChadwick You’ll eventually need Aeromoters in Wisconsin to rebuild the electric pump. You’ll also want to find the source of that leak. Did you just have your oil changed and the mechanic spilled some? If not, I’d find the source of that leak.

Simple explanation would be the chain link that connects your wheel to the trim tube is disconnected, broken link, etc. belly panel right below the wheel needs opening. Part 11 on the diagram.

My normal amp reading with a good battery is around 4amps too. Do you think there’s an issue there or could that be a difference between your 28v system and our 14v?

Also, the “oily streaks” are they new or normal for your airplane? They seem significant, especially if they smell like fuel.

Yeah that’s normal amperage, low voltage. I would definitely start troubleshooting the low voltage (at home). Low voltage but charging isn’t going to break anything, but it’s not right and not good for the long run health of the battery.

@PT20J this is his wheelhouse.

Any way to look back at engine data and make sure the amps were low before the alternator went off line? During normal cruise with a healthy battery you might see like 4. In the bottom 2 pictures, with the alternator working, You’re showing ~30 which is probably just charging your mostly dead battery, but was it a normal number before the failure?

No pictures yet, but sounds like the alternator stopped producing power for some reason, could be alternator, Voltage regulator, or any of the wiring between the busses and those parts. The discharge you mentioned is what happens when the battery is no longer being charged. That’s a normal indication with the alternator not on line. The high amp reading later when it was working is normal for a battery that is in need of a charge. Couple thoughts, is 13.6v really your normal? That’s low. Should be 14.0 +\-0.1. Likely you have some issues even when it’s working right? Which VR do you have? I would definitely stay vfr and have a backup plan (gear? radios, etc), but if you start it and it’s working, I probably wouldn’t hand an intermittent electrical problem to a mechanic away from home that he can’t even duplicate. The normal issues are busted field wire connections at the alternator, and those are easy to check. Wiggle them see if they’re loose. Maybe the VR over voltage protection? Depending on which vr you have. After you’re home, I’d work on cleaning up the electrical system because 13.6v says there’s likely an issue brewing.

Also, kind of adding on to @PT20J s good advice, you can run your electric boost pump with mixture in cutoff and pressurize much of the system to ~25psi. Turn off the boost pump, it should hold pressure for a good long time which allows you to get out and look for active leaks.