Ragsf15e

Your ff of 11-11.5 to be ~100rop at 8500’ would match mine. Heck, it might be 11.5-12 there if he’s at isa. Running at peak is fine if you’re running low enough power, but if you’re trying to maximize speed, you’re going to have to be rop to get maximum power.

Ive got close to 400hrs on mine with fine wire plugs. Installed a new harness when it was first put on. Haven’t had any issues at all with the plugs or the harness.

They definitely do help in the military. Someone looks at each aircraft on final with binoculars. It’s easier there though because the landing light is on the nose so even if you can’t see it perfectly, No light means no gear. I do agree it’s nice when they look at you, but I suspect there’s one person in a civilian tower where there’s three in the military tower doing the same job.

I have a left side SF and it’s great. Consider putting it on the right side and rewiring the key so that neither mag is grounded during start. I believe @jetdriven has done this. It now starts on all plugs.

I wondered the same. They told me they fill large quantities for the local USAF base every two weeks, so that’s when they do ABO. I didn’t get more than that out of them. I wonder if it’s the difference in bottle regulator connections?

Still that’s not bad in Seattle. I found a local welding place that has been taking care of me. $25 hydrostatic test and $25 fills. They don’t do “aviator breathing oxygen” all the time so I have to leave it for ~2 weeks.

You will find the aviation weather briefings insufficient to avoid smoke. I’ve flown around and over and through it a lot the last few years between Spokane and Reno. I also fly a corporate plane and I can get over it in that, but it does sometimes go to 18,000 feet. I have shot approaches to mins and barely broke out when the vis is really bad. In the Mooney, it’s terrible because all the smoke is in your lungs as well. Here is a link to NOAA smoke maps and you can get a pretty good idea of where the smoke will be, but you really won’t know how high it is unless there are PIREPS. https://apps.gsl.noaa.gov/smoke/#

You might have some slight issues but they aren’t gross. My F would have done the same speed there with the same Mcauley prop. I would check the flap rigging and gear rigging but don’t expect all 13kts back. Weight and cg and ~7k DA AT 100 ROP will get you a higher TAS.

I leave early and plan to be down before noon. Family can tolerate it fine where it’s cool at higher altitudes and we’re only on the ground a short time around noon to unpack. Lots of good trips!

Maybe make sure the sniffle valve is closing as well. It’s the drain on the bottom of the engine. Simple ball in a seat. Maybe not enough to cause all your symptoms, but???

That’s a really nice panel! If you have room to do that, it’s an excellent option.

Right side works fine for me. The display is plenty big to see easily. You’ll also have to mount the RAD top middle of the left panel.

Wowza! Glad it didn’t collapse on you!

Nothing wrong with a new engine, but I might consider just getting a good shop to overhaul what you have. A good shop should be able to do that and end up with an engine as good as a new one (or better). It will probably take less time too. If you want an engine on hand, I might call western skyways and the other big shops to discuss. They might have a core (or know how to get one) they could oh to new limits and take yours on exchange.

I think trying a good comfortable earplug under a comfortable passive headset is worth a try. That was the standard way we all flew in military jets because they are ridiculously loud. It works and you can get real comfortable with it.

And come to think of it, if mine had a short after the ALT breaker, that cb might pop, but the short would probably still be there (now shorting the battery). Something tells me that would be bad, no?

Yikes, I’m confused, but one thing I’m sure of is I’m glad I’m not a EE! You guys agree less than lawyers! So on my F (PP Alt, zef vr), that breaker would only stop the ALT output. The battery wire comes through the starter solenoid and then directly to the busses. So in the case of the ALT breaker blowing, the vr is still getting bus voltage (supplied by the battery). Either the ALT is putting out way too much current for some reason (and popping the breaker) or there’s a short after the breaker and the alternator is trying to put out way too much current, no?

I used 1/4” pvc to make a sign that goes into the towbar hole. Then I put it through and put a pvc end cap on. They physically have to remove the sign to move the airplane. The sign says “tight turn limits. Do not overturn. Damage will occur.” It still would scare me. I just hand push it everywhere, but that won’t work for you.

Yikes. Get up under the panel and look for burn marks on the buses?

As @PT20J said, is it the big red 60amp alternator breaker or the ~5amp alt field breaker?

Also, what about cooling airflow? It’s in the front. My 2 runs middle of the pack, but 1 is always low cht just because it’s in the airflow. Do you have the oil cooler below it or in back of the baffling ? What about baffling elsewhere?

Isn’t there an adjustment for how fast they come up? Someone here (@Shadrach) will know…

Cheapest turbocharger you’ll ever get!

Even if it’s a standard metal box like mine, I preheat the engine when it’s less than about 40f at night. That’s 7 months of the year for me. I still fly if it’s above zero… brrr!

If you live somewhere even a little cold, it’s nice to have some type of cell or wifi inside the hangar (with door closed) so you can control an engine heater remotely. Sucks to drive to the airport just to turn that on.