Ragsf15e

I tried it again today using 100mph initially and slowing to 95mph by 10,000’. It was 2c for a DA of ~800’ at takeoff, weight was 2200lbs, ram on at ~1000’. Average to 10k (2,000-10,000’) was 955fpm. Average all the way to 12k was 875fpm. Looking through my poh, I averaged their climb numbers from 2-10k at 2300lbs and get 922fpm. I slightly beat that but I’m 100lbs lighter and a little cooler temp. I’m pretty darn close to book. I did see ~1250fpm initially. CHTs weren’t a problem on the cold day - All ~350, but deck angle makes clearing difficult. Your airplane seems to be a solid climber based on your data. It beats book numbers pretty well. Based on poh, SL to 10k should be an average of about 990fpm.

Ha! You beat me to it! Adjusted my prop control friction today too. Probably easiest thing i’ve ever done behind the panel. At first it looked like it might be hard because access to the back nut is difficult, but I loosened the front nut and then was able to move the back one by hand. Loosened it just a little, and then re-tightened the front nut. No more walking prop control during cruise. Wish I wouldn’t of waited so long to do it.

As @PT20J said, there’s a gear warning switch on your throttle. Normally, it’s only activated with the gear up and the throttle near idle. If you pull the gear warning, circuit breaker, it should stop. If that’s it, you should be able to adjust the switch on the throttle.

possibly this thread is some help?

Ouch. If it’s the dent in the nose steering horn, then yes, definitely get that replaced as the tolerance is very small and the consequences are bad (collapsing nose gear). The last person I heard get one (for a J) was @PT20J. He got a new one from Mooney through an msc. I’m not so sure if lasar is still selling them or just ordering through mooney. I think they are the same for a c but obviously check that with the msc. Absent the dent, the slop can possibly be cleared with new bushings, bolts or heim joints. You need to jack up the airplane, lock the rudder pedals and then lay under the nosewheel and wiggle it. The exact source of the slop will be evident.

Luckily for me, no J bar. I’m going to take another good look under there this week and see what I can do. I have some thin/short open ended wrenches that I use for the tough spots, hopefully the back nut isn’t too big.

Maybe time for the $80k panel upgrade!

I really need to try this too. My prop control (no friction control) has very low resistance and “walks” a little as i fly. I remember m20doc telling me how to adjust the front and back nuts but it looks a little more intimidating than that.

Understand the angry click. I’ve been there. There are lots of options though… EI, garmin, jpi, salvage, possibly even a stand alone fuel pressure gauge and mark the current one inop? Depends on what you want.

Theoretically, the shop that installed this provided a diagram of the wiring and a copy of tge config. Any chance you could find that if it exists?

Since you can track a vor, and your gps doesn’t have a vor (gps 175 is just gps), what radio is it tracking? That should be the only “navigator” it’s connected to. I would have thought it would be connected to the -175 as it’s only navigator, but then you wouldn’t have VOR tracking as an option.

Fair enough. I use it and haven’t had huge mess issues. Probably took me 1 pint or possibly 2 to do the wings and tail this year. I do it every 2 years even though I live somewhere relatively dry and it’s hangared. It did fog the inside of my IAs shop though, but I told him I wouldn’t charge for the corrosion control. Possibly im just too paranoid for corrosion. This year I also took the wing root fairings off and did acf on the wing attach bolts. I have had the interior out but we don’t do it every year. I was just wondering how many other people don’t take it out every year.

How often do you do ACF treatment on yours? Do you fully remove the interior each annual to look at the cage?

Maybe @Alan Fox or Beagles?

One thing you’ll find is that the engine is much happier if used regularly. If it hasn’t flown much for several years, it might be fine or you could have internal corrosion in the engine that would be hard/impossible to find on inspection. You won’t know until it’s flown for a good while and see if it starts making metal. It could also be fine. If the engine has issues, it can be fixed but it’s very expensive. You can pretty much look for/find airframe corrosion with a good prebuy. Need to open up all the inspection covers and take the interior out to get a proper look. Spar corrosion can kill these planes. Leaking fuel tanks can be found and fixed. They can leak into the cabin or into the wing our outside the wing. They are relatively easy to find.

You’ll want to know how much it’s been flown in the last few years since the overhaul.

F models are great. Good UL, honest 145kts, pretty simple to maintain. Making sure there’s no spar corrosion is a must before buying. I have a ‘68 F. Happy to talk about it if you need to.

The fun thing is that it can be interfaced with dual navigators if you have the gfc500 (since that’s a garmin autopilot).

So you changed the transducer and still get the same readings, but a manual gage indicates higher. What actual gage is the transducer feeding? The stock gage? And has that been redone?

He doesn’t have a new attitude source, they kept the original adi. He just has the g5 hsi. @bcg is correct though, there’s only one navigation input allowed when used with a non Garmin autopilot. Since the hsi is tracking a vor, it “shouldn’t” be wired to the gps175 as well. Maybe it’s not exactly meeting the installation instructions though?

(Tongue in cheek) I’m flying you and @N201MKTurbo up here to help me fix mine when one of these things breaks!

Huh, mine is an F, but the preload tool is only for checking the mains. The nose is a spring measurement.

I think all of this is going to become a significant problem for us with early electric gear as the gear motors, 40/1 gears and backup crank cables fail from old age. There really aren’t replacement options. That being said, I really like the electric gear, I just wish there was a solid option for parts when they are needed.

Ahh, I assumed ADI but you’re probably right. If he has an hsi, should be simple as push knob, twist right to gpss, push knob again, confirm that it’s selected in the too left of screen you see a little hdg bug symbol with an x through it.

Interesting. It only has one G5? I have 2 G5s, GPSS is only accessible on the HSI G5. I wonder if you can do GPSS with only one G5?