Ragsf15e

You’ll catch at least 90% of the big problems with a quality prebuy turned into annual if you use a quality shop as has been recommended above (AGL, Cole, etc). It might cost you to find out though because you’re on the hook for $1-2K price of the prebuy.

Actually, no, I wouldn’t recommend that. I think this answer is going to be in line with Skips and Carusaum, even though they didn’t say it exactly... if in doubt, go for a hot start first. You give that one good shot. If that doesn’t work, follow Skips advice for flooding it to know where you’re at and do a flood start. You only get one shot at a hot start, and once you prime, you can’t go back. You can always flood it. @Marauderhad a good story of a tailpipe fire after a flooded start. Now that’s pretty rare, but enough for me to give hot start a chance. Honestly hot starts probably work 99% for me. The question of 3-5 minutes idle then shutdown would be tough, but I’d probably try hot start first. If in doubt...

Yeah they are empty or they never fly.

I’m sure you’re right, especially if the gami spread is real tight. In my case, gami spread works out 0.4 pretty consistently. My #4 peaks first and drops quickly as I lean. If I lean all the way until #2 (richest) is at 50 lop, 4 will be 100-150 Or more and likely cold. It definitely wouldn’t be happy on 1 mag. Maybe that says something isn’t perfect, but she runs great at 20-40lop.

I’d try a mag check at your normal 10-20 lop. I bet your old mag is fine there. At 50 lop, remember, that’s the richest cylinder. Depending on your gami spread, leanest ones are probably barely running. The old mag is gonna have trouble with that.

Clearly you’re right about how the ff/hp work, but my jpi seems to be pretty dang close (jpi 930). Possibly they have updated the firmware because I just had it back there. Possibly it’s close because I don’t go deep lop. When I’ve checked it vs the ff, it seems to be spot on.

If you were really at 6.3ff in cruise, that’s likely deep lop even at 12,500’. You’re at like 46% power (14.85x6.3)/200. For sure the mech mag is gonna be rough. You’re going real slow for no gain in efficiency too. Anthony’s plan of being just barely lop at high altitude works best. Also, you’ll definitely want to use “power boost”/ram air up high. Depending on how well it’s sealed , you’ll see around an inch more mp.

Exactly. So having the engine rebuilt recently is good because that’s 75% of what deteriorates when an airplane sits for a long time. Did it sit inside or outside or unknown? That will affect spar corrosion and fuel seals (you said this has bladders though). My question with the nose gear... if it had a prop strike recently, you need to be very careful. It could actually be a good thing if the engine and airframe were professionally repaired iaw with all the requirements for sudden stoppage. Was the recent overhaul before or after the prop strike? If after, who did the sudden stoppage inspection and what did they do? This should be very clearly documented or walk away. If everything was done by the book, there’s nothing wrong with proceeding on the airplane. If anything shady pops up in the engine, prop, airframe repair, walk. If it just had the prop rebuilt, that doesn’t sound like a prop strike though, so you might just need to keep it in mind as you go through the logs.

I believe you about Jerry, but I don’t think Jacknick was saying anything about him, certainly not anything negative. It appears the comment from Jerry was 2 years ago. I guess I just think jacknick wasn’t responding to Jerry as much as just referring to himself as a noob and asking his questions.

I did this with a SF as well but only once because I didn’t like the BANG. I don’t really notice a roughness lop on the old mag but I was only about 10-15 lop and my MP was ~21 which probably means I had less advance. Were you up really high?

Well yeah, after Anthony caught my “volume” misuse, I sheepishly went back and edited it!

And maybe check into the nose gear swap... doesn’t have a new / new-used prop on there too does it?

Structure the deal properly so the seller is on the hook for anything airworthiness found in prebuy. If something big comes up he either fixes it or gives back your deposit. Then it’s on you to get a good prebuy at a good shop.

It could be fine if it really has a new engine and has been flying a good bit lately. Still, it’s worth having a Mooney knowledgeable mechanic look deeply for cracks and corrosion on the spar, stub spar, etc. Bladders probably hold up just fine without useage. Empty tanks for many years would dry out sealant if it didn’t have bladders. I might ask why the nose gear was rebuilt, just new pucks?

Ok, you got me there, you’re right, the volume doesn’t change at all. I should’ve explained that much better! Thanks!

Interesting... I have an 68F as well, here’s my thoughts/techniques... So 100mph should be right around your Vy. Generally a good place to be initially unless of course obstacles are a concern, then use Vx. Most people will “cruise climb” above about 1000’agl and use around 120mph. You will find only a slight reduction in climb rate, higher forward speed, better visibility, and much improved cylinder and oil cooling. As you get higher (you said above 4,000’), the air gets thinner. There are less molecules of air passing through the engine and oil cooler to remove heat. Increasing speed definitely helps. If you’re still climbing at 100mph at 4,000, you will see a definite improvement at 120mph. The total amount of oil matters too as there’s more oil to “hold more heat”. My engine likes 6 quarts. If I put in 7, the oil temp holds better during a long summer climb. 5.5 quarts is not good for a long summer climb. This doesn’t have much effect in cruise that I can see. If your temp is legitimately that high, you should definitely be seeing a reduced oil pressure. As opposed to the volume of oil helping a little, this is very noticeable. Check oil pressure at takeoff and through the climb. Finally, mine is about 195 in climb at 120mph and 185 in cruise, but oat matters and I live in a cold place. If yours is as high as you say and it’s new, probably better to get it checked. Stuff like testing the sensor, the vernatherm, and the oil cooler lines is pretty easy.

Good that you’re having it looked at. Generally baffling cools the cylinders which can lead to cooler oil if they were running hot... were they upper 300s, maybe low 400s? There is a piece of baffling on some airplanes that may or may not direct airflow away from the back of the oil cooler and allow more air to come through the front of it. Some have it, some not. If chts were all 330-350, baffling is unlikely to help. It will then be time to check out the vernatherm and/or oil cooler.

What does Dan say? I tend to think he’s done this enough to be able to say whether trying again might be successful in a long term fix or will eventually result in another massive leak?

Cruise is kind of a different animal. Curious though... what is your oil pressure at takeoff and what does it do as oil temp rises up that high? In climb, it’s common for people to see high oil temp by climbing at Vx or Vy for a long time, maybe running too lean in climb (thus hotter cht), etc. in cruise, those usually aren’t issues. Both cases need to make sure the reading is accurate which is why I asked about pressure. Oil pressure is very sensitive to temp changes. Very. It will drop noticeably as temp rises. On my JPI, I can start to see pressure drop a couple psi with ~10 degrees increase in Oil temp.

@carusoamhas good questions and your the oil cooler/vernatherm could definitely be the issue, but lets do a little data collection first... 1. What speed are you climbing at? 2. Is this a new condition? Have you had the plane long? 3. What do your CHTs look like in climb? 4. What does your oil pressure do as your oil temp climbs?

Are you getting 2700 during your takeoff roll? Maybe just before rotation, or only in a dive? If it’s only in a dive, needs adjustment!

Agreed. It’s worth jacking up and checking both normal and emer systems. When mine happened (during transition with a mooney instructor), there was no damage. However, it’s definitely not good for the system if the electric is engaged with the emer engaged. Maybe @carusoamis right and the cb saved you from further damage?

This is true depending on the year/model. I’ve heard lots of folks with the later emergency system in the floor have had their gear not come up because a passenger bumped the engage switch. However, the older style crank system In the pilot sidewall will still engage the electric motor and you won’t forget it.

Mine will still actuate electrically with that slide forward (68F). It’s very exciting and tough to forget because it also windmills the emergency crank at tornado speed. It’s not good for it by the way. So I don’t think the emer engagement slide being forward is your problem. I’d probably check it a bit further. However, I have had my gear cb pop before and I reset it. I have no idea why it popped, but it’s probably been 6 months working fine since.

Absolute values of egt aren’t really helpful. They don’t even need to be real consistent between cylinders. They are obviously helpful for finding peak egt and setting fuel flow in cruise. Not all your cylinders are running with exactly the same fuel/air mixture at the same time. Some are richer or leaner than others. I know my #4 is slightly leaner than the others, so if I’m LOP, it’s generally cooler egt than the others. Conversly, if I run ROP, #4 egt will be hotter than the others.