Ragsf15e

Did you get this figured out? I also have the newer cowl flap motor and have the same issue (slowly creeping open in flight). Would love to know how others solved it.

They keep sliding the expected date to the right…

I respectfully disagree and suggest you do some Colorado Springs takeoffs next summer ~85 degrees and 50-100 rop. Let’s see what your temps look like around say 3000’ agl. I’m curious now.

The lower cowl on an F is significant. Especially if you want him to be careful with your “unobtanium” rubber intake duct.

I guess to each their own, but my engine baffles and cooling was solid, but im pretty sure being 50-100 rop on takeoff vs ~200 rop (which is roughly where target egt puts you) will make a much more significant difference. I have flown to Mammoth last summer, Colorado recently, and routinely in the pnw. I don’t think im imagining it.

I much prefer the target egt method vs what you describe as long as you have an engine monitor. Yes, I agree that you’ll get roughly the same power output , but if you end up leaner than you intended, you can very quickly get very hot CHTs. Slow speed, warm day, high altitude, thin cooling air, initial takeoff/climb. It’s a busy time when you don’t want to look down and deal with 450 degree chts. Target egt is a better, known setting. Yes, it doesn’t have to be perfect.

This is the easiest fix ever. Even if you’re not too mechanically inclined, order the heim joints, install them and have your mechanic take a look and sign it off when you’re done. Advise him first and see if he agrees. If not, find any other A&P to just look at your work and sign. Im not that great a mechanic, but I disconnect those parts (not tge ball joint part though) each annual to free the gear doors so I can access the inspection panel screws close to them. Don’t lose the tiny spacers in there!

Not sure exactly why the OP did it, but I can tell you it won’t be noticeable in your scan or flying. My F had dual G5s that were offset similarly because there isn’t quite as much space directly above the yoke and that space pushes everything to the left. Anyway, it seems weird, but you don’t see it at all when you’re flying, and I’m pretty anal about that stuff.

That guy’s probably a great neighbor and a hoot at parties.

Well, I can get close to the nerd math for you! On the back of my old checklist in the airplane theres a Koch chart. You can use that to scale your takeoff data from sea level to whatever altitude/temp combo you want. This explains it with an example. I used it to give me an idea of how much DA effect to expect and I found it reasonable but maybe slightly overestimating the effect. https://learntoflywithkris.com/koch_chart.html

If you had someone work the cylinders on a reman as @exM20K suggested, you’d have pretty much what you planned on, and with zero time.

Matt, Hopefully your flight home went well! One recommendation for departing at high altitudes (ok, maybe two) 1. Only take the weight you need, so 40 gallons of fuel is much better than 64 if you’re going to make a fuel stop anyway. Weight is key. 2. During the early takeoff roll, adjust the mixture to ~1220 egt (they are all a little different, but pick one). That’s roughly your max power, climb mixture setting. If you’re leaner than that, it’s very easy to get hot CHTs very fast during takeoff and initial climb. Richer than that is less power. The F does well at Colorado altitudes, but I always tried to leave by ~11am or earlier in the summer.

And that’s why I have a nice airplane, but happily drive a 23 year old truck!

I usually call mine a volkswagon with wings… aircooled, 4 banger, small, old, etc. it fits and people stop thinking I have a Gulfstream.

I think @dkkim73 said it more eloquently, but here’s my take (and I frequent KCLM in the summer)…. It’s not my job to have to dispute bills that are junk. There are clearly many way to park/land at Kclm that should not result in a bill (friends hangar, rented hangar, FS taxi back, etc). Why is it suddenly my responsibility to police the company billing me with the possibility of a lein on my airplane if I (OMG) choose to ignore a bill that’s completely bogus?! I should send them a bill for my time spent in researching and replying to their trash billing. At least Id have a reasonable justification for my bill. Think they’d pay?

Makes sense. I don’t think there’s a time requirement for inspection if the regulator is working correctly, but you’re right, probably reasonable to have it looked at on occasion! I need to talk to Pete about all this and see if we see eye to eye. I liked flying in your airplane so much that I found a nice 252/Encore conversion! I’m very excited to pick it up next week. Pictures to follow… I hadn’t heard of the Skyway burning down until yesterday. Seems like they might be lucky to be back open before spring? They had so much cool, old memorabilia. I hope it wasn’t all destroyed. I’ll take notes at the hangar meeting. I’ve got it on my schedule.

Pete, Im curious, since I use that same shop… why did they have to send out your working regulator in the first place? If the bottle needs hydro, that doesn’t mean the regulator needs to go in too, does it?

Yeah, I’ve been basing my plan off of using an O2D2. The below sheet appears to say that I should expect ~65 “people hours” of O2 (at 15000’) from a 77cf bottle. With 4 of us, I think that means ~15 hours. Through the summer, we put ~70 hours on the airplane, so I think id like the bigger bottle… at least that’s what I think this says. Oxygen-Cylinder-Duration-oldmd.pdf

That’s awesome! Thank you. Ill pm you.

I will use them as well, but we generally use the airplane as a family of 4 (two 9 year olds), so i think the 115cf might still be good?

This oxygen stuff is more confusing than it should be... I'm buying a 252/Encore that will need a new O2 bottle at its annual this spring. I've been researching trying to put in the 115cf bottle for the 77cf bottle that's currently there.... Sounds easy but it's harder than I thought! The "oxygen lady" told me I have to send in the whole regulator both it and the altitude compensating portion needs tested separately and "recertified" any time the bottle is change ($$). Next, the part number for the 115cf brackets in the 231 IPC is 803272-10 (I think), but she says that part number comes up as $1500 each. But she says I could use aftermarket brackets that are $160 each except they aren't in our IPC and they aren't STC/TSO etc, so?? Now I don't believe the reg needs OH just to switch out the tank, but this is crazier than I expected! Any thoughts?

If They’re not closed correctly, they pop open on takeoff and fly open. It can crease them pretty good. The door on my F had a slight, but noticeable crease. I can definitely see people wanting to put a new door on to erase all memories and evidence from that experience. Plus, some of the newer doors have the emergency inside release.

I’ll put in a call to C&L to see if they carry the brackets, but does anyone have any other sources for the larger (115cf) brackets called for in the ipc? They seem to be 803272-10 as the Mooney part number but I haven’t been successful actually finding them. my 77cf kevlar bottle is about to expire and id like to replace it with the 115cf bottle, but Id also like to have my ducks in a row when my IA asks about the part numbers…

That’s relatively common. There’s a gasket up there between the tube and the cylinder which might help. Until you know your engine and what’s normal, Id have a mechanic look at it and see if it can be fixed because it could also be from a leaking injector on top of the cylinder and leaking/blowing down. #3 on my F refused to stop spitting out some fuel at the intake gasket though and eventually my mechanic told me it’s not a big deal if it doesn’t change. I really didn’t like thinking about fuel spraying on my hot engine though…

I prefer the option of a backup nav/com too, but I wouldn’t mind the primary being only a gps/com (gnc355).