Ragsf15e

Ha! When you are there as an instructor and you double turn or sometimes even triple turn, the heat is even worse! I was there as a T6 instructor from 2012 to 2015.

When I started this thread, I thought it was just my airplane or my own issue. It appears that those screws could have been designed easier to remove for all models and levels of competence! Even with the doors loose or gear up, I sometimes have one of the tiny screws at the back of the well hidden.

I would say both. It’s impossible to not spill a few drips. A little looks like a lot. Are there any drops on the drain? Mine spits some out the breather anyway. Also, why did you do 8qts? Typically they spit extra out the breather if you top it off. I usually put in 7 (some fills the filter) and then keep the level ~6. It blows out less. Is yours different? (Mine is an SB engine but should be similar)

I just bought a 252 with the Encore conversion. It was converted in 2021 at Don Maxwell in TX. There are some parts that are hard to get for the conversion, but it’s possible. I’d call Don and see.

Honestly you already helped me today! I’ve never seen my mechanic lube the rudder tube pass through underneath the exhaust cavity. I put it on my list to check at annual next month. Good luck. If I remember right, it doesn’t hurt much unless you try to move it. The sling is bliss compared to PT!

Yeah, I could see that. When I first got my F we lived in Del Rio, TX along the Rio Grande. The darkest tint wasn’t dark enough. I still have an icebox AC in my hangar collecting dust. Haven’t used it once in Washington!

Use the dictation mic button. You should be solving everyone’s airplane problems! Hope you’re doing well!

I found some lighter film from greenfilm usa. 99.9%uv and 70% transmissivity vs the 20% for the “light” gila static. I doubt it’ll cut the heat much but I live in Washington, not texas, so I’ll let you know how it goes.

I have a nice new panel too, but I use a mini running ff on my lap. Im just use to looking at my approach and arrivals on my lap. It’s also a good backup for traffic, terrain, weather, etc that I now use my panel screens for. I don’t like my ipad on the yoke. I’m toying with adding a ram ball mount to the right side of the panel to hold the mini as i had in my previous airplane.

@Skates97 Have either of you guys seen clear static film that’s uv protection? I used the “light” grey Gila on the back windows in my F and it was actually pretty dark. I want to keep out uv but I’m not so worried about heat/light up here in Washington.

Ok, thanks to you both. I have been doing the rod end thing each annual. However I just realized from your descriptions that I should remove the screws along the nose gear doors first. THEN remove the rest of them and the panel. I was doing it the other way around and as the panel comes off it scratches everything up. Thanks!

Hello, my annual is coming up soon and I’m trying to get myself ready. I had an F and now a K (252), but the panels near the nose gear look about the same. I’ve always struggled to remove them in the past (at least without scratching the paint and cursing). Some of the screws are hidden up under the gear doors or under the aft end of the doors. My IA has wanted to see the fuel pump and selector, so off they came. Does everyone take those off at annual? If so, any tricks to keep from dinging up the airplane? I do have a small 90 degree ratchet screwdriver but still…

Pulling it (prop rpm) back is so effective that it almost feels like accelerating forward. The first few times I tried it, I didn’t really believe it (I had a 3 blade prop so maybe even more effective?). When practicing, I wasn’t completely comfortable with having the engine set like that for long, but I didn’t have a reason for that. It just turns so slow (and sounds different) that it’s different than you’re use to. It always ran back up just fine.

We’ll be thinking of you. See if you can catch up to @carusoam’s post numbers while you’re stuck in bed! File the -337 for the major repair.

I suspect you’re a little too much LOP which is causing the stumbling. Id recommend starting LOP to try a setting that will get you 65% so you can’t hurt anything and then play with it from there. You just need the FF for your engine. As long as you’re on the lean side of peak, FF is the only determinant of power. So your engine, 65% is 210hp x .65% = 136.5. Divided by 13.7 gives you a ff of ~10gph. Try that ff at say 27/2300 or so maybe 28/2300 if it will run smoothly. set the mp/rpm, then big mix pull to 10, then reset the others back to 27/2300 or 28/2300 as required. Then slowly richen until peak to see how far lean of peak you were (and then set back to 10gph). At 65%, you can shoot for closer to peak, maybe 20-40degrees. If it’s too lean, pull throttle back just a little as that’s what is controlling the air into the cylinders. you should see much cooler cylinders.

I would take a look at the one @Pineconeposted above or the ones Jimmy has at gmax all american aircraft. Yes, he’s a broker but he’s good.

Well yeah, and I ski a lot, but an idling prop pulls pretty hard, no? I started my work airplane (PA-46T) on ice once and off we went with the brakes set. I had my hand on the cutoff, but enough room to try reverse first which stopped us. It was a delicate dance to the taxiway.

I can see landing, and I can see slowing down after landing… how did you taxi and stop?

I think that last part is key. The price to OH a TSIO-360 is high which makes TSMOH pretty important. Couple that with the exorbitant cost of installing full modern avionics/AP, and a low tsmoh airplane with new avionics could be worth $100k or maybe more than a high time original? Possibly Im making myself feel better, but I paid the upper end of 252 values for an airplane with original paint (reasonable condition) and original interior (yellowed). However, it ha been converted to Encore, less than 200 hours on the engine (done in 2022), all new avionics and AP, newly sealed tanks (with Monroy tanks) and a few other niceties. There are lots of variables to put together to determine the value.

I do exactly what you have as well. There are others that might stay flaps up (but gear down) for two reasons: 1. In the event of MA, flaps down and full power can cause a lot of pitch up pressure. It’s not terrible with only TO flaps but you should practice it. 2. You can stay a little faster (~100) with flaps up on the ILS which might feel more stable. Upon breaking out on glideslope, slowing down isn’t normally a problem (unlike your airliner). After considering those, I do what you described.

I wonder if there are insurance exclusions for ice runways? That looks expensive but not totaled.

It’s interesting to me that you say you were slower and hotter LOP… if you ran the same power lop vs rop, you should see roughly the same speed, but lower CHTs when lop. If you’re running higher power ROP (to get the more speed), then you’d likely see higher CHTs. Exactly what mp, rpm and ff do you use lop vs your power setting rop?

Ouch, but survivable. Definitely stopped quickly!

g) Landing. Aircraft, while on final approach to land or while landing, have the right-of-way over other aircraft in flight or operating on the surface, except that they shall not take advantage of this rule to force an aircraft off the runway surface which has already landed and is attempting to make way for an aircraft on final

That’s a great visual, thank you!