Ragsf15e

Sorry for your experience. I’ve started noticing similar types of workmanship, service and courtesy from highly recommended shops as well. General aviation maintenance is a difficult place to have to work through these days. Personal relationships seem better than recommendations and experience.

If that’s the shop you want (and it’s good, but will be $$ as @MikeOH says), then you should already be on their schedule. Good shops are busy because they’re good. I’d seriously call tomorrow to get on their schedule if you’re sure.

Interesting, thanks. I’ve had mine on a batteryminder continuously for ~5 years (two different airplanes) and felt the battery was doing well (based on passing the cap check each year), but maybe I’ll start using it less.

I thought the minders were specifically designed to always be attached to the battery “desulfating”… are you saying it’s better to leave it disconnected sometimes?

Ha! I called and talked to Tina in parts. She told me they hadn’t gotten any yet and still expect them in June! Hopefully you guys actually get them! She said she checked like three different places in their inventory software?? Who knows? I’m gonna try back in a couple days.

I have a K with the yd and like it. I didn’t put in the AP but the difference in turbulence is very noticeable - a better ride. The folks who don’t have one don’t know. Don’t take my word for it though, try to fly one with it and see what you think by cycling it on/off. Yes it will hold it coordinated and it can be on without the rest of the ap on (like while you’re hand flying). So my thought is, you’re going big, do it all. But maybe try it and see what you think.

If we didn’t have pucks, we’d have leaking strut O rings to worry about, or maybe cracking on the “flex” point of a spring gear leg. Actually, I think I like the pucks more after writing that! Airplanes require maintenance. Pucks are expensive for what they are, sure. I just hope they’re available when I need a set!

Yeah, im really happy with the panel the previous owner put in, but a physical audio panel seems like a good thing. Losing gps and transponder is fine if you can tell atc about it, heck, I have com/nav 2! But the inability to select comm/nav2 would be frustrating.

Yikes. I just started flying with a 750xi and only recently learned that you “can’t turn it off”. I have located the CBs and they are actually pulled right now so next time I start it shouldn’t come on. I want to make sure I know which ones turn it off. The scary thing to me isn’t losing the gps, but I also have the remote audio panel. I actually wish I had a normal audio panel and a remote transponder as I think that’s easier to deal with if you lose it. I’m glad it reset for you, and that you weren’t ifr or in a class B/C!

This could be an interesting one… technically, the G5 can only provide heading to non garmin AP. However, depending on when the G5 was installed, it was legal to use it as the altitude encoding source, so possibly that altitude is fed to the AP for altitude hold? Another interesting tidbit… my G5s were set up as the encoder and I was occasionally getting an encoder failure on my transponder. Recycling the transponder off/on would fix it. It took a long time to get the straight answer (and they were still shady), but garmin acknowledged a software issue with the G5s acting as an encoder and offered to send me their little external encoder that attaches to the transponder for free.

Great advice, thank you for taking the time to provide those details! Drew

Excellent, thank you! I was looking at Precise Flights manual, but the one you posted was much more helpful! And now I see (probably) why there’s an access plate on the top and bottom since it originally had 100 series.

Mine look a little different as the top also has a removable panel there. They are the 2000 series, installed after removing the vacuum ones….

Skip, does the cartridge come out through the top or bottom? Mine seem to have access panels on both. I’m looking at the installation manual and it’s not helping. Im just preparing to help my mechanic lube them at annual and want to have the access thought out.

I took a picture today just to close the loop before we fix this at annual next week. The engine has been on the airplane two years. Installed at a reputable msc. I just got it, so no idea how long it’s been like this, however, the tube leading into the oil filler tube was not connected to the air oil separator or even capped off?! There was a piece of blue painters tape near it. I wonder if that was on there temporarily at some time? Fixing this should help my oily belly issue a lot!

Excellent, thank you! My son isn’t going to like his legos disappearing, but he’ll be happy if they help fly him to Disneyland!

And you’re wetting the fiberglass cloth with the abs glue mixed with abs bits or the abs putty or the mek with abs mixed in? I was thinking the abs glue or putty would be easier than mixing epoxy to laminate over the fiberglass cloth. There’s so many different ways people do this. I’m definitely going to start with a few simple (and hidden) pieces in the baggage. If you need to cover a hole (such as removing the ashtray) how do you texture the visible surface?

Maybe one of the airline/jet guys can speak up because it’s been a while for me, but if you drastically reduce power in a jet during wind sheer close to the ground (due to increased IAS) there will not be time to spool the engines back up when the inevitable speed loss from the opposite side of the sheer hits. Power in our pistons and even turboprops comes in much faster. When the IAS drops, and the power is back, descent rate can increase quickly (thus the sink rate warning). 1100 fps is a pretty hard hit.

When you get a bright led in there, it’s a great feeling. Checking gear down is a much more positive experience, however, if you night fly a lot, it’s pretty darn bright!

Well this isn’t my thread but it should help

The light under the floor indicator is accessible from the belly. You’ve got to have small hands. The bulb is cheap and available but has a very specific base. I had to try two different types. so you would optimally do this at annual when the belly panel is off and you can watch underneath as the gear retract. You can actually see the little plexiglass piece move out of the window. I have a thread with pictures from a couple years ago. I’ll see if i can find it.

OAT?

One problem is as you said, convincing an msc to make the order. I had to call 4 last week to put a part on backorder, expecting 28 week lead time….

I doubt it’s great for the paint, but if it’s cut to a nice circle just enough bigger than the dial, it doesn’t look terrible. And if it keeps the dial protected? The real question is whether @PT20J Skip will put it on the dials after his new paint job?!

This topic made me buy some of that clear 3m tape that @PT20J recommended and put it over them, so that I won’t lose them!