neilpilot

I realize that everyone's finances are very different. I own a relative inexpensive Mooney, and have a partner. The value of my M20C is insignificant, at well under 1% of my assets. I considered two aspects of my flying in retirement as way more important than the asset value of my M20C: [1] The cost of my flying at the current rate constitutes 10-15% of our total post-tax expenses. Will your retirement cash flow, including any asset depletion, support your flying considering those unknowns of longevity, health concerns, etc? [2] My flying profile is dependent on moderate IFR currency and proficiency. As I age, will I be safe in continuing to fly IFR? I'd be very cautious in converting too much assets into cash, assuming you plan to preserve capital for a long life and/or an estate. Your cash is likely to, at best, almost keep up with inflation.

Actually when I land at the "biggest airport" I usually reserve a rental at the terminal, since their rate is typically much lower than the same car, from the same company, at the FBO.

I don't, but consider checking on a flight out of KCDW as an option to TEB. Might be much easier to arrange, and traffic is also easier. When you inquire, consider asking about a flight down the VFR Hudson River corridor, and a return via the East River with a left over Central Park. The FBO at CDW is Air Bound, and they could possibly recommend a CFI for a "Discovery Flight".

I sure would be nice if Enterprise would do business on Sundays. Sometimes the FBO can accommodate a pickup or drop-off, but I often end up paying for an extra rental day as a result.

Why would he be kidding. This is a standard requirement for a ferry permit. I needed one when I was out of annual and planned to fly to my shop for the inspection.

Wet aileron hinges freezing in flight?

As your fuel cools, water will come out of solution at about 1 ppm/1 degF, and if the fuel is well below 0C that water will freeze in a very fine crystals, and in large amounts can quickly blind a fuel filter. The key variable in addition to how cold you will be in flight is how much SOLUBILE water is in your fuel, and how quickly your fuel is chilled. If the temperature change is slow, and especially if the cooling occurs on the ramp, the free water may separate and drop to the bottom. On the other hand, if you take on a relatively warm load of fuel and then immediately go fly in the cold, those fine crystals can form and result in engine stoppage if you don;t use a water scavenger such as IPA. You can fly may hours around -25C and have no problem if you've fueled from a source that's already at cold surface temperatures. However, if you fuel from a relatively warm storage tank and then immediately go fly in the cold for awhile, you may just replicate Tom Winter's experience.

Look for Mooney Service Instruction M20-64, issued in 1983, which references Lycoming SI #1070K and a similar Continental service bulletin. FAA references ASTM D 910, Standard Specification for Aviation Gasolines, that permits 1% IPA, in at least one of their ACs.

I've been using "ISO-HEET Premium Fuel-Line Antifreeze", when appropriate, since I first started winter flying back in Niagara Falls. As previously mentioned, buy 100% alcohol in the RED bottle. Their other formulation in the yellow bottle is a solution of IPA and water. It's particularly important to use IPA when you're tankering fuel from a warmer area of the country, since the water solubility in 100LL is much higher when the fuel is relatively warm. No need to spend money on Prist if you are a CB. The FAA allows the use of isopropyl alcohol as a fuel system icing inhibitor up to 1 percent by volume. I usually add one 12 oz bottle of Iso-HEET to each tank. One bottle in 25gal of 100LL is around 0.4% of IPA. In Tom's case, where he pretty much knows he has water crystal potential, I might double that dose without exceeding 1%.

While sumping is obviously a good idea, ice crystal formation is possible even if all traces of free water are removed. This can occur if you take on fuel stored in relatively warm conditions and then encounter a very large drop in temperature. The warmer fuel can hold a small amount of water in solution, and very fine ice crystals can form as the water solubility drops with temperature. Isopropyl alcohol will effectively prevent crystal formation by increasing water solubility in that very cold fuel.

Agree. I fought a similar, very intermittent problem for a couple years and it finally brought me down. Read last paragraph of NTSB N1310W. https://www.ntsb.gov/about/employment/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/brief2.aspx?ev_id=20120721X23053&ntsbno=CEN12FA463&akey=1

The RCO at my base just came back online after several months OTS, and I found it invaluable to be able to call for IFR clearance on the run-up pad.

I'm not even close to being an audiophile. Picked Halo over Aloft for the simplicity of repair should a sound tube require replacement.

Back in 2013, the cost to o/h our fuel sender was $166.50, with a 3 day turn (plus shipping time). It was done at Air Parts of Lockhaven. Here's the 2013 contact info: http://www.airpartsoflockhaven.com/ Rose L. Mumbauer 570-748-0823 570-748-1786 F ROSEM@AIRPARTSOFLOCKHAVEN.COM

Please don't confuse a container on the "ground" with it being electrically grounded. The way to avoid a static discharge is not to "ground" the container, but to electrically "bond" it to the wing. Also remember that many gas containers are plastic, and will not conduct. So try to avoid free-falling liquid, and if possible inset the transfer tube subsurface or just above the containers liquid surface.

I've been to KSAV awhile back, but usually park on Hilton Head. When I'm looking for information on ramp fees and there's a choice of FBOs, after I read the reviews I usually just email or call the FBO(s) I'm considering and ask about fees. One consideration is that Signature will often provide a significant weekend discount on 100LL. If you plan on using them and will arrive before and/or depart after the weekend, be sure to ask for fuel service when that discount is in effect.

Is the replacement nut plate a standard part or Mooney specific? I'm not familiar with how they are changed, but it almost looks like the mounting tabs are carefully bent outward to allow the plates to be swapped, and then bent back in to secure the new plate.

Bob - please tell Lynn I appreciate his advice. I already planned on draining the tank before removing the sender. Can this nut assembly be replaced by reaching in from the sender's hole, or does the tank need to be opened in another area (I hope not)?

After buying our 65C in 2012, we had our right tank's fuel sender O/Hed, and a new gasket was used when it was installed. Recently we discovered a slight but active drip at the sender. We were able to tighten the screws to stop the drip, but consider this a temporary fix. We plan to have our local A&P replace the gasket, but have a few questions. When tightening the 6 screws, we discovered that one screw would not tighten. I assume that the nut plate is damaged behind that one screw. What's the recommended fix for this issue? Also, when the gasket is replaced, should the mechanic use any Permatex or other dressing on the gasket? Should he use some tank sealer on the screws?

Yes it's the same unit that I bought for $158 from Home Depot, exactly 1 year ago today!

I've used my older handheld during 3 unrelated com failures over over the past 20 years. One involved an instrument letdown into KDAL. My experience refutes Browncbr1's assumption that "if you're too high for the cell phone to work, then I would guess that you probably can't use the handheld either". In my case, using a splitter connected to one of my external com antennae, the handheld transmit performance seemed to be as reliable as my KX155. In addition to the antennae splitter, I carry a headset adapter. I also don't use an alkaline battery pack, but a AA cell battery pack since I always carry a quantity of batteries for headsets and flashlights and consider an alkaline battery less reliable unless you are sure you have the discipline to ALWAYS have an excellent charge.

Ghost of Christmas past

Great, but don't forget to claim it as income. It's under the limit to require a 1099.

If your fuel, spark and compression check out and there's no smoking gun on why you lost power, an internal fault in your fuel servo is possible. You could have fuel pressure in the green and still experience a sudden reduction in power to all cylinders. Read the last paragraph in https://www.ntsb.gov/about/employment/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/brief2.aspx?ev_id=20120721X23053&ntsbno=CEN12FA463&akey=1

So now that I ordered a $199 Merlin, guess I can sell my 1st generation P2 stratux and hopefully regain partial CB status?