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I feel for you, getting stuck in RAP sucks, heard good things about AMS, sending mag including all destroyed parts to them for analysis probably good idea, pics of all teeth of the gear that drives the mag gear may also help, not sure if that gear can be removed without removing accessory case, seeing part no on the gear that drives mag gear would help to rule out that wrong gear is installed, may have to use mirror or borescope to see part no. I keep fingers crossed

That depends on your model and year. The electric flaps in my 1970 C are infinitely variable, just hold or bump the switch to put them where I want them. The indicator is marked Up, Takeoff and Landing. A friend's 75 F has a slider for flaps with only three positions, could not stop between the settings for Up, Takeoff and Landing. My C has an indicated position for Takeoff that is.between Full Up and Landing (= Full Down). I use Takeoff before VFR pattern entry or on Instrument Approach as im slowing before the FAF. After that, I bump the flaps and tweak the throttle as required to stay on my desired glide path. Does your J only have markings for Up and Down, and nothing in between?

Sorry Ryan. What does the drive gear look like? The angle of the most damage tooth looks off in some of the photos... is that an optical illusion?

Antennas are all about being the correct length for what frequency they are to be used to transmit or receive on. The little wire with a ball antennas are a 1/4 wave of the frequency for ADSB and Mode S 1090 and 978Mhz. 1090 and 978 are pretty close so the same quarter wave can be tuned for both frequencies. Mode S and ADSB share 1090Mhz Antennas have nothing to do with data bandwidth as the Mode S and ADSB transmit in serial protocol their data sentences. Data Bandwidth issues would be inside the transceiver unit.

The second GI275 is actually an MFD, although it will display all the Engine monitor pages. It also has a HSI map page, a lightning page, a terrain page and a bunch of other stuff. It gets the data from HSDB piped in from the top unit, but if you pull the breaker on the top unit, the bottom one goes all X's. It doesn't forward the data through it. This is common with HSDB actually. But it's nice because you can have the leaning page on the bottom like that is and then leave the other one at the top with all the other gauges. STC says 2700 but I might have mistyped 2730 in there, but it hardly goes red now at 2710.

If they were smart, they’d come to you. I’d kill to have a shop like yours in my area

Really?

Sounds like it's QAA that might need the manual forwarded to them!

Talked to a guy at CHD who was swapping an engine on a 172. It was on some kind of leaseback arrangement with a flight school. I asked what kind of problem it had. He said it was perfect, but he just swaps out engines at 3,000 hours regardless.

Meh to CIES. If you have a totalizer showing quantity used and yoy have stick to know initial quantity in tank you are good. Gauges should read accurate on empty…of course.

Huh?

Not exactly, just two GI-275 displays capable of displaying the one GEA’s data. Byron, how do you have it set up such that RPM doesn’t turn Red exceeding Redline at 2720? Or is that a Garmin thing i wasn’t aware of? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, you're entirely correct. I had Vx in mind when I was typing for some reason... I keep Vx in mind as a waypoint when taking off. I might have been conflating them since Vy is closer to Vlo (going up). Thanks for noticing that!

You shouldn't be landing with speed brakes deployed. If you do, I'd hit the speed brake button and raise the gear at the same time.

Wow! I have seen standby alternators, dual batteries, standby vacuum, multiple nav/com/gps radios, and more duplication in larger airplanes, but this is the first standby engine monitor.

If it isn't visibly corroded or damaged there shouldn't be an issue. If the shop has a Vector Nework Analyzer (VNA, they're not expensive these days), the antenna can be electrically tested to see if there are any issues. Many shops don't have those or don't want to test such things since they can sell you a new antenna otherwise.

1980Mooney, You are absolutely correct! Weight and balance is covered by the SB M20-252 service kit and would also be reverted back to the pre-SB condition. -Cheers

Byron, Did you install one GI-275 as EIS and the other as MFD? And just showing both on engine because you can? Aerodon

I agree with Don. The avionics shop probably wants to start with all new parts because it reduces any chance of issues with existing components. The antennas are not very expensive and once you select a shop it's best not to tell them how to run their business. But, the OP asked if replacing the antenna was necessary and the answer is no, if it is working correctly.

The install manual for my GTX 345 states that the antenna is considered part of existing equipment and that any antenna approved toTSO-C66() or C74() is acceptable. We reused the original King antenna from the KT 76A and it works fine.

Now you are overthinking this. Just rely on the shop to make sure you have a good antenna and cable and move on. I would not rely on a 'whisker pole' antenna, and the issue you need to deal with is whether you have a 2 screw or 4 screw mount already. Replace with the same if yours is bad, but the 4 hole antennas are quite expensive. Aerodon

We're always keeping an up-to-date strategy for different makes & models.

Of course. The question to ask is how much is it worth. In my area, the cost to split the case and visually inspect the internals is likely around $3-$4K.

It all depends on how much it has flown recently and the price but age alone is not an immediate pass for me.

I would suggest you forward it to AMS. They might have a viewpoint.