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Question: are we talking about (a) basic FAA aircraft registration/renewal; (b) FAA-required registered agent services for those who do not have a US address, or (c) basic registered agent services to meet state corporate/company record requirements?

Its frustrating to have a little bit of knowledge and ethics in this world...

I would have asked him to close the door as he left so I could make use of the vice grips. :-)

PM sent

I added a blue light on the instrument panel to let me know the fuel pump is on.

I tried something new - I gave all of my symptoms to ChatGPT, and this is what it said. What does Mooneyspace think about the diagnosis and suggested remedies? Reported Symptoms Faulty grounding previously discovered and treated - last few weeks (headset noise). Annunciator light alternates between solid (OVER voltage) and flashing (LOW voltage). Flashing annunciator (voltage light) is erratic (sometimes steady, sometimes fast). Annunciator bulb runs hot. Transmitting on COM1 (Garmin 430W) causes EGT rise on engine monitor (returns to normal after transmit). Radios flickered off and back on briefly a few weeks ago. Annunciator push-to-test inconsistent - 5+ years of ownership. Ammeter usually ~0, slight flicker ±, steady most of the time. Voltmeter (cigarette-lighter plug) shows 13.2–13.7V in cruise (normal after 5+ years), except when multiple high-drain USB devices (~4–4.5 A combined) are plugged in at the cigarette plug — then the measured voltage drops to ~12.7–13.0V. Diagnostic Interpretation (updated) Alternator/regulator likely healthy: Voltmeter steady at 13.2–13.7V in cruise indicates normal alternator output. The temporary drop to ~12.7–13.0V under substantial accessory load is expected to some degree, but the magnitude and where it occurs (cigarette outlet) provide useful clues (see below). Ammeter behavior: “0 with slight flicker” indicates alternator is carrying the load; not a gross failure. False warnings: Annunciator showing OV/UV while voltmeter steady = suspect bad grounds, faulty annunciator sense/wiring, or intermittent wiring. Radio transmit → EGT rise: Grounding/shielding problem. RF energy or voltage drop in a ground loop causing interference with engine monitor. Radios flicker / annunciator test inconsistent: Intermittent power bus or weak ground connection. Voltage sag under USB load (12.7–13.0V at cigar outlet): Could be normal small drop across wiring/connectors for a 4+ A draw, but if the drop is larger at the outlet than measured at the bus (or if it causes annunciator behavior), it suggests high resistance in the accessory circuit or a weak ground/positive connection at or near the cigarette outlet or its feed. Also worth checking whether the voltmeter in the cigarette socket is measuring at the socket (subject to local wiring voltage drop) rather than at the main bus — if so, the bus may be fine while the outlet wiring/connector is marginal. Common Grounding & Connection “Hot Spots” (M20F) Airframe & Engine Grounds Engine-to-firewall ground strap (braided, often left side) — check for corrosion, fray, looseness. Battery-to-airframe ground — check both battery box and airframe lug, clean to bare metal. Avionics ground bus bonding — ensure solid tie to airframe ground. Alternator & Regulator Alternator ground lug (often overlooked). Voltage regulator ground (older external types very sensitive). Alternator B-lead & field connections (tight, corrosion-free). Annunciator & Panel Wiring Annunciator connectors: look for heat damage, loose/corroded pins. Annunciator ground integrity (many were daisy-chained). Avionics Wiring Garmin 430W: confirm shield grounds for COM coax & audio wiring are terminated properly. Engine monitor: ensure probe/return grounds not tied into RF grounds (to avoid false EGT rise). Accessory / Cigarette Outlet / USB Load Inspect the accessory feed wiring, connector, and ground at the cigarette outlet — high resistance here will cause localized voltage sag under 4+ A loads. Confirm whether the cigarette outlet’s wiring runs through any intermediate switch, breaker, or connector that could add resistance. Check for a poor ground return at the outlet (loose ring-terminal, corroded lug, paint under terminal, etc.). Miscellaneous Avionics master switch: inspect for arcing or looseness. Circuit breaker crimps (especially avionics & alternator field). Summary for A&P (updated) Alternator & regulator appear to be functioning normally in cruise. Annunciator panel may be partially failed, but the root problem still strongly suggests ground integrity and/or annunciator wiring/sense circuit faults. The observed voltage sag at the cigarette outlet under heavy USB load suggests local wiring resistance or poor connection at the outlet or its feed — check outlet wiring, connector, and ground return in addition to the main grounds.

IMHO very few mechanics, even Mooney mechanics, take notice of this issue. In years past, before I discovered bent stems and just let the shops maintain the aircraft (Clyde Wittenbrook for those who recognize the name), they did excellent work but nonetheless it was impossible to install the straight-stem tubes specified without bending - and straining - the stems. (Photo) So after switching to bent stems, before I started mounting tires myself, I didn't realize that the bent stem, when installed properly, does not touch the rim. The shop guys (usually assistants) who do the installation don't realize it either. If they were willing to install straight stems that look like the photo and not raise questions, then they definitely won't notice if a bent stem touches the rim.

well hopefully they’ll see this thread and everyone talking about their great rollers and make some more?

You know that takeoff is the most dangerous phase of the flight. That is when you want all your backup systems on line. It is way more important to have it running on takeoff than landing. If the engine quits on landing, you have extra energy and you are pointed at an airport. On takeoff you have no extra energy and you are pointed away from the airport.

No, I turn it on during run up and turn it off at about pattern altitude. In this case, the mechanical pump was pumping enough fuel to start and taxi, but not enough to make full power. The mechanical pump was sucking air without the boost pump running. I believe I was pumping a bunch of fuel overboard with the electric pump running. But it got me back to the airport.

Pulled the master switch out, resistance seemed normal. Don’t think it’s the switch at this point. Working on next steps.

I see you’re in a K but what route do you take from SLC to CO? Would like to find a good fall day to do it in my F without getting too high for too long. Would like to get from SOCAL to WY without going down low through ELP.

That’s the reason mine are still in a bag in a box just in case one disintegrates.

I get it. Take off is nose high and max fuel flow so it can benefit from all the help it can get so add the fuel pump especially on a fuel injected engine. Also close to the ground. However, as much as pumps should fail safely, pressure should be regulated all that sort of thing, we are still going from a known working state (no boost) to a new state (boosted) right at a critical stage. I understand that most people and most manuals will work on the principle that needing a fuel boost is more likely than the boost causing an issue, but I'm just pointing out that it could also be the other way around. Also, if you don't use it, you don't forget to turn it off. Mind you, it still needs testing before every flight, and the pilot should be very aware of where the switch is as the slightest hiccup. I have had an efato and did remember to try it but didn't help.

Out of curiosity, do you keep the boost pump on at all times from engine start to level off, including taxi and runup?

The last time I paid someone to do a complete annual on my plane, I took off on the post annual test flight. When I got to altitude, I turned off the boost pump and the engine quit. I turned it back on and returned to the airport. The fuel line from the firewall to the fuel pump was about to fall off. That was the only time in 5400 Mooney hours that I actually needed it to keep the engine running.

There was somebody here making and selling them a while back, but it was apparently not DonMuncy, and I don't remember who it was. I bought a set from whoever it was, and they're very nice. Haven't installed them yet...

+1 that the electric pump is the backup during takeoff and landing in case the mechanical pump fails. When you're at cruise altitude you'll have time to troubleshoot, but near the ground you can't count on having, and likely won't have, time to deal with sorting out what happened and turning on the electric pump. At least, I'm not gonna count on that. Another utility of the electric pump is that if the mechanical pump gets overheated for whatever reason it can boil the fuel and cavitate during it's suction draw stroke. The electric pump will pressurise the input to the mechanical pump and make this much less likely, or mitigate it if it happens. I have to use the electric pump during hot starts at high DA for this reason. The mechanical pump and the electric pump are designed to be reasonably fail-safe with each other. In other words, the diaphragm-type mechanical fuel pump in many Mooneys will allow fuel to flow through it if it fails if there is pressure from the electric pump. Likewise if the electric pump fails (or isn't turned on), the mechanical pump can still draw fuel through it. These common failure modes are all tested and have to be demonstrated during certification, so they're all tested, safe states. Also, the fuel servo is essentially an output fuel pressure regulator, and it is largely insensitive to input fuel pressure as long it is high enough to allow regulation of the required output pressure. Increasing the input pressure doesn't really bother it, which is why you can turn the electric pump on or off and not see a change in engine output parameters. It's extremely difficult to overpressure the input of the fuel servo, so that's nothing to worry about.

I've got a set of travel boards here I no longer need. They're for SN 1701 and up as shown on the data plates. I've had these a few years, I think I got them off eBay but don't remember. Located in Phoenix. Buyer pays shipping. $1500 obo

Happy Wingtip Wednesday! Flying back from SLC; turns out an easy and friendly Bravo. Had to deviate a a little wx but a fun and pretty flight back to CO. Starting to see “hints” of the fall colors coming in the next 2-3 weeks!

Yep, that’s who I emailed. Last time I bought them for my old airplane, 2021ish, they weren’t too expensive for airplane parts. Considering they are just a plastic disc with a hole in the middle… at that time I did check with a machine shop and it was many hundreds of $$ to slice a rod of appropriate “plastic” and precisely drill the correct size holes.

There is a bunch of other companies that offered registered agents services. It's just a question paying the new company and updating the info with the state. If I ever plan a stretch of 6+ month outside of FL, I'll re-register the airplane in FL or in my name; I just don't want to pay the tax if I don't have to but it's annoying to have to deal with it.

You need to get something down the center post. My thought would be to use some soap water, but that could rust the metal. My nose wheel in the past has been soaked in oil for years, and didn’t seem to hurt the disks at all. So, I would use motor oil.

I should have mentioned that the gear was greased today; however, the squeak in the donuts remains.

And all you do is push it back into the panel. I don't see how anyone could get a better deal.