M20F-1968 Posted November 10, 2021 Report Posted November 10, 2021 17 hours ago, RLCarter said: Here is what I have, fits under the filter just fine, 1 1/4” thin wall PVC, 30” long and straight, length can be longer, I install it from the pilot side I like the idea, but I usually am alone and need two people to remove and install the lower cowling. I assume you can not use this if the lower cowling is on. You made me start thinking about taking a plastic bottle, cutting it appropriately so as to make a trough with a plastic hose to carry the oil away. John Breda Quote
RLCarter Posted November 10, 2021 Report Posted November 10, 2021 2 hours ago, M20F-1968 said: I like the idea, but I usually am alone and need two people to remove and install the lower cowling. I assume you can not use this if the lower cowling is on. You made me start thinking about taking a plastic bottle, cutting it appropriately so as to make a trough with a plastic hose to carry the oil away. John Breda Lower cowl stays on….. it’s a straight pipe with the end cut and heated to form the part that goes under the filter. I remove the cowl side panels only…quick drain is on the left so this comes out the left as well, piece of hose on the quick drain and get it going, then loosen the filter and let it drain. If pressed for time I place a few blue shop towels under the filter before placing the PVC Quote
EricJ Posted November 10, 2021 Report Posted November 10, 2021 6 hours ago, ArtVandelay said: Use some silicone grease (DC4) on the gasket, I always have trouble when someone else puts it on, and have had to use 2 wrenches because I was afraid of tearing up the nut end since it’s not solid metal. Or use the pre-lubed Tempest filters. If you use a Tempest and torque it to spec they're generally pretty straightforward to remove. Wipe the seating pad clean where the gasket goes before installation. Quote
jaylw314 Posted November 10, 2021 Report Posted November 10, 2021 1 hour ago, EricJ said: Or use the pre-lubed Tempest filters. If you use a Tempest and torque it to spec they're generally pretty straightforward to remove. Wipe the seating pad clean where the gasket goes before installation. They're pre-lubed? I didn't realize that, I usually just wipe a bit of new oil on the gasket and wipe off the oil filter pad. I haven't had any problems getting either Champion or Tempest filters off with that box wrench. Well, except that one time when I forgot to remove the safety wire 1 Quote
TheAv8r Posted November 10, 2021 Author Report Posted November 10, 2021 On 11/9/2021 at 10:59 AM, jaylw314 said: If you're okay just using the 3/4 turn method (which I think is probably more accurate anyway), a thin 1" ratcheting box wrench is probably the easiest way to get the filter on/off There is nothing more accurate than a calibrated torque wrench . The crows foot came in today, going to give that a shot then if I still have issues, admit defeat and get the oil filter torque tool. 1 Quote
EricJ Posted November 10, 2021 Report Posted November 10, 2021 42 minutes ago, jaylw314 said: They're pre-lubed? I didn't realize that, I usually just wipe a bit of new oil on the gasket and wipe off the oil filter pad. I haven't had any problems getting either Champion or Tempest filters off with that box wrench. Well, except that one time when I forgot to remove the safety wire The Tempest filters are pre-lubed. See the Overview in the AS link below. They say, and experience bears out, that adding motor oil or other lubricants to the gasket with their propreitary lube can make it harder to remove, not easier. I just wipe the base pad clean and put it on, and it is rarely difficult to remove. I suspect when it's hard to remove is when I didn't get all the oil off the base. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/stpages/tempestoil.php Quote
jaylw314 Posted November 10, 2021 Report Posted November 10, 2021 1 hour ago, jacenbourne said: There is nothing more accurate than a calibrated torque wrench . The crows foot came in today, going to give that a shot then if I still have issues, admit defeat and get the oil filter torque tool. I suspect the turn method is more accurate for getting the precise gasket compression, whereas the torque wrench is can have a bunch of variables (gravity, sliding friction and what not), or that they're at least close enough for government work. I agree that a torque wrench would be more "precise" but not "accurate" to be pedantic Quote
Hank Posted November 10, 2021 Report Posted November 10, 2021 2 hours ago, jaylw314 said: I usually just wipe a bit of new oil on the gasket and wipe off the oil filter pad. I haven't had any problems... Me, too. This worked well for my truck for a long time. No surprise that it also works well for the Mooney. Quote
M20F-1968 Posted November 11, 2021 Report Posted November 11, 2021 10 hours ago, RLCarter said: Lower cowl stays on….. it’s a straight pipe with the end cut and heated to form the part that goes under the filter. I remove the cowl side panels only…quick drain is on the left so this comes out the left as well, piece of hose on the quick drain and get it going, then loosen the filter and let it drain. If pressed for time I place a few blue shop towels under the filter before placing the PVC I have no cowl side panels as I converted to a J model cowling. I do not think it will work without removing the lower cowling. But, you have got me thinking about cutting up a medium size detergent bottle that may be close to the oil filter in size. perhaps with a non-centered spout where I could attach a hose. I may have to bring an oil filter to the grocery store.... John Breda Quote
M20F-1968 Posted November 11, 2021 Report Posted November 11, 2021 As I posted my last message I thought of the Phillips X-country aviation oil bottle. Perhaps it would work turned on its side, cut open to fit over the filter with the spout in the lowest position. John Breda 1 Quote
bmcconnaha Posted November 11, 2021 Report Posted November 11, 2021 13 hours ago, ArtVandelay said: Use some silicone grease (DC4) on the gasket, I always have trouble when someone else puts it on, and have had to use 2 wrenches because I was afraid of tearing up the nut end since it’s not solid metal. Tempest says not to use anything on the gasket. I do use the DC4 on champion filters though. Quote
PT20J Posted November 11, 2021 Report Posted November 11, 2021 It’s a rubber gasket. Torque can’t be very critical. Spin on car filters aren’t torqued (or safetied, for that matter). I’ll bet the torque spec is to prevent over tightening. Tighten too much and it will be a bear to remove. Next filter change, somebody count the turns for 17 ft-lbs. bet it’s close to 3/4 turns Skip 2 Quote
Jsno Posted November 13, 2021 Report Posted November 13, 2021 I use aluminum foil under the filter to catch the spills. Then just throw it away. Quote
jaylw314 Posted November 13, 2021 Report Posted November 13, 2021 20 minutes ago, Jsno said: I use aluminum foil under the filter to catch the spills. Then just throw it away. Don't throw it away, recycle it I was stunned when I read fully 5% of the electricity produced in the world is used to smelt aluminum from ore. Quote
Immelman Posted November 13, 2021 Report Posted November 13, 2021 I'm surprised no one has mentioned the garbage bag trick. Loosen the filter until before it leaks, place garbage bag around, spin off, pray, and then either celebrate or cuss. 80% of the time it works great! Quote
Guest Posted November 13, 2021 Report Posted November 13, 2021 7 hours ago, Immelman said: I'm surprised no one has mentioned the garbage bag trick. Loosen the filter until before it leaks, place garbage bag around, spin off, pray, and then either celebrate or cuss. 80% of the time it works great! What do you do if you’re not religious? Clarence Quote
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