One man oil change?

[Shadrach]

Quote: stevesm20b

I have found a way to remove the oil filter with out spilling any oil. I first drain the oil out of the engine, then I punch a small hole in the top back part of the filter. I use a rubber tipped blow gun to blow compressed air into the filter for 2 min. Then you can remove the filter from the engine without spilling any oil. Any questions?

[fantom]

I've got a shelf full of contraptions that were supposed to keep oil changes clean. After watching some oil changes at Maxwell about 12 years ago I stopped concerning myself, just used some mineral spirits to clean the engine and floor...just like they do.

I drain the engine warm, punch a hole in the filter to assist drainage, let it sit overnight, blow some compressed air through the filter hole, and off comes the filter with no mess or fuss. I also put an old towel or two under the filter just in case. 

[Vref]

So yesterday I did the oil change based on some really good inputs from this Forum.

Worked out well, did a cold oil change. I think the oil is better collected after a week not running. If you run the engine first, the oil is liquid yes but the mess get's spread again...

  Left cowl flap link removal by pushing upward the springloaded cap as such you can easely remove it from the ball. Keep the cap in a plastic cup...Connect a plastic tube push and turn the quick drain valve and then...wait...wait...wait...oooh men this will go slow.....after two hours most of the old oil was out...Did a top cowl removal and check some other stuff (have a question on cooling in another topic..;-))

Close the quick drain put some fuel in the crankcase, then flushed it. Did that twice...so the fuel looked like fuel and not oil...wait 15 minutes to make sure all fuel was out...close the quick drain valve

Whoopy 7 quarts of Oil Aeroshell W80. Close check everything ...did a short flight 30 minutes (with various power/egt settings)...to make sure all is lubricated well...all OK...happy man...!

Thank you all

-Luc

 

[Piloto]

Luc, glad everything work out good. One thing I always do after an oil change is to run the engine for 10 minutes on the ground. After the run I check for oil leaks around the filter. There is the possibility of having a new leaky filter or some particle trapped on the seal. Unlike cranckase leaks oil filter leaks are under 60psi pressure and can deplete the reservoir in no time.

 

José

[Vref]

Quote: Piloto

Luc, glad everything work out good. One thing I always do after an oil change is to run the engine for 10 minutes on the ground. After the run I check for oil leaks around the filter. There is the possibility of having a new leaky filter or some particle trapped on the seal. Unlike cranckase leaks oil filter leaks are under 60psi pressure and can deplete the reservoir in no time.

 

José

[Piloto]

Quote: Vref

[Piloto]

Quote: Vref

José thanks for the tip when doing an oil filter change (mine was just a inbtw 50Hrs Oil change overdue (4+Months) timewise) , do you this with or without cowlings attached...? I would think for a 10 minute run with cowlings attached to keep the engine heating parameters in range..?

 

 

After oil and filter replacement I attach both cowlings. Then run the engine for 10 minutes. I look for oil stains on the gear doors and cowling. Then open the dipstick door and with a flashlight look for oil droplets at the bottom side of the filter next to the engine side. My M20J has the dual mag on the other side but if yours have two separate mags the inspection may not be possible thru the door.

José

[Pinecone]

Over thinking it.  Punch the whole first thing and the oil will be drained by the time you are done with the to draining, capturing sample and filling out the paperwork.

But once you get the filter off, what are some of the filter cutters?  They are a lot out there, and it seems some flick metal shards into the filter.  So which to buy.

[mooneyflyfast]

How I do it:  get a small funnel (~2 in. dia.). Make a bail large enough to hang the funnel over the filter.  Attach plastic tubing to the discharge end of the funnel  and run it from the filter between the firewall and the engine into your oil drain bucket.  Punch a couple of holes in the top of the filter near the end  Loosten the filter until the holes are on the bottom and oil drains into the funnel.  Let it drain a day or two before removing the filter.

I dont remove the bottom cowl to drain the quick drain.  After you have done a few of these it’s quick and non messy.

 

 

 

[hammdo]

This works great for oil filter removal:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016KTC3FO?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Form a funnel, the longest one…

-Don

[EricJ]

Holy necro thread!

I use this cutter, which works really well:

https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Cutting-Replace-Filters-Diameter/dp/B09PYBTPRQ

And +1 on form-a-funnel.   I usually change the filter after it has been sitting at least over night, which minimizes the amount of oil in it, often to nothing at all, but the form-a-funnel works pretty well to catch anything that does come out.    That or the half-PVC-pipe trick, but sometimes either are difficult to use due to hose or engine monitor wire routing or other interference.

 

[kortopates]

Be really careful punching a hole in the oil filter. TCM has been on an education campaign for many years now to warn mechanics of avoiding this practice after they have had engines come back to them prematurely due to an oil galley getting plugged with oil filter element debris. They do approve of using the Tempest tool to puncture it which doesn't penetrate the filter element. 

[Skates97]

It is much simpler than that. Yesterday I stopped by the hangar at lunch and hooked up a hose to the quick drain and left it draining in a bucket. I came back right after work, the oil was long since drained out, stuffed a couple shop rags under the oil filter, cut and removed the safety wire, loosened the filter with a wrench, then quickly spun it off with my hand and turned the filter up so to remaining oil wouldn't run out of it. I was left with a little oil on the shop rags that were under the filter and no oil anywhere in the engine compartment. I guess I could take a video of it next time.

[Shadrach]

https://oilfilterbib.com/

I have had good experiences with the oil filter bib (available at Spruce). The filter change on my F model is not that bad but it is a PITA compared to other airplanes.  I usually place a small microfiber cloth on top of the prop governor and fuel pump and then use carefully thread the bib over the filter until it over the lip on the housing.  I don't think I've succeeded in changing a filter without spilling a drop but I've come close.

[Healthpilot]

On 11/21/2011 at 1:23 AM, MARZ said:

 

Quote: Bnicolette

 

 

 

 

 

I use this contraption and it works beautifully:

 

http://www.formafunnel.com/

 

Me too. I can shape it in a way that collects most if not all. 

[Guest]

16 hours ago, Pinecone said:

Over thinking it.  Punch the whole first thing and the oil will be drained by the time you are done with the to draining, capturing sample and filling out the paperwork.

But once you get the filter off, what are some of the filter cutters?  They are a lot out there, and it seems some flick metal shards into the filter.  So which to buy.

There are many choices for filter cutting/opening without introducing particles to the filter.  I use a Rigid 4”pipe cutter.  

For your engine pre fill the filter with new clean oil before installing it, the right side up filter has advantages.

Clarence

[LANCECASPER]

19 hours ago, Shadrach said:

https://oilfilterbib.com/

I have had good experiences with the oil filter bib (available at Spruce). The filter change on my F model is not that bad but it is a PITA compared to other airplanes.  I usually place a small microfiber cloth on top of the prop governor and fuel pump and then use carefully thread the bib over the filter until it over the lip on the housing.  I don't think I've succeeded in changing a filter without spilling a drop but I've come close.

Wow that changes everything. I thought I was supposed to wear the bib when I changed the oil.

[Fly Boomer]

12 hours ago, M20Doc said:

For your engine pre fill the filter with new clean oil before installing it, the right side up filter has advantages.

What do you suggest for this bad boy:

 

[Shadrach]

45 minutes ago, LANCECASPER said:

Wow that changes everything. I thought I was supposed to wear the bib when I changed the oil.

You probably should.

[LANCECASPER]

1 hour ago, Shadrach said:

You probably should.

The good news is that I haven't gotten a drop on my tie 

[Shadrach]

4 minutes ago, LANCECASPER said:

The good news is that I haven't gotten a drop on my tie 

Me neither! Glad that I stopped wearing those things a while ago.

[kortopates]

2 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

What do you suggest for this bad boy:

 

you need an inverting airplane hoist! 

We had a Rocket pilot on MS years a go that changed his oil making a mess - which was ruining his cowl flap motor, so it pays to be careful. That bib above may help yours too,

[LANCECASPER]

2 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

What do you suggest for this bad boy:

 

Why is there an automotive filter on it?

[Guest]

8 hours ago, Fly Boomer said:

What do you suggest for this bad boy:

 

Well, I’d suggest installing it on the Ford it’s meant for.

Clarence

[Fly Boomer]

5 hours ago, LANCECASPER said:

Why is there an automotive filter on it?

They're all the same, aren't they?