larrynimmo Posted October 24, 2019 Report Posted October 24, 2019 I will be going through annual soon and I am gathering all my materials....does anyone have experience with replacing the door seal...not the rubber gasket on the door itself, but the woven fiberglass seal that's on the frame... Quote
MooneyMitch Posted October 24, 2019 Report Posted October 24, 2019 Larry. If you’re speaking of upholstery door welting around interior door frame, normally interior upholstery material will have to be removed in order to access rivets and/or screws which secure the welting to the door frame. I hope this helps you 1 Quote
David Lloyd Posted October 24, 2019 Report Posted October 24, 2019 Just replaced the windlace material on cabin and baggage doors this week. MooneyMitch is correct, some interior panels and glareshield will have to be removed to access the screws that hold the windlace in place. I was able to drop the overhead panel down on the door side only and have enough room to work. It is also easier to work by removing the co-pilot seat. The door mounted panels do not need to be removed. Not knowing exactly what was involved, had to learn as I went along. I bought 22' of material from Airtex at their recommendation. I think it was 22' and had about 5' left over. The first foot I did took a couple hours. Last foot took about 20 minutes. Total time about 8 hours. Repair and repainting two panels, another piece of armrest upholstery, and all the other little things that get worked on while there not included. I think this was the longest time spent in years working on an airplane without drawing blood. Of course a new puppy fixed that. Quote
Danb Posted October 24, 2019 Report Posted October 24, 2019 2 hours ago, David Lloyd said: Just replaced the windlace material on cabin and baggage doors this week. MooneyMitch is correct, some interior panels and glareshield will have to be removed to access the screws that hold the windlace in place. I was able to drop the overhead panel down on the door side only and have enough room to work. It is also easier to work by removing the co-pilot seat. The door mounted panels do not need to be removed. Not knowing exactly what was involved, had to learn as I went along. I bought 22' of material from Airtex at their recommendation. I think it was 22' and had about 5' left over. The first foot I did took a couple hours. Last foot took about 20 minutes. Total time about 8 hours. Repair and repainting two panels, another piece of armrest upholstery, and all the other little things that get worked on while there not included. I think this was the longest time spent in years working on an airplane without drawing blood. Of course a new puppy fixed that. More importantly what kind of puppy... Quote
David Lloyd Posted October 24, 2019 Report Posted October 24, 2019 We have a 15 lb. mixed terrier. Wife wanted a companion for him. I relented saying don't get something that will be larger than him. Chihuahua mix. Right. In 6 weeks it has gone from 8 lbs. to 23. Must be Chihuahua Grande. It's gonna eat my new seats. 27 Pounds today, 10/31. Thing grows overnight! 2 Quote
larrynimmo Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Posted October 25, 2019 16 hours ago, RLCarter said: This stuff? (Wind lace) yes...this is what I am looking for....can I buy it or do I have to make it.... Quote
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Report Posted October 25, 2019 1 hour ago, larrynimmo said: yes...this is what I am looking for....can I buy it or do I have to make it.... Aircraft Spruce has it, but any HotRod / Auto upholstery shop can make 1 Quote
MooneyMitch Posted October 25, 2019 Report Posted October 25, 2019 You might enquire with Airtex also. I’ve purchased welting (wind lace) from them 3 times. Just another option for you Quote
MooneyMitch Posted October 25, 2019 Report Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) Another possible option Larry......my last upholstery project..... I purchased welting cord alone and had an auto upholstery shop sew my material onto the cord, thereby matching my door welting exactly with my seat material color/ texture. Funny photo content, but visible is the door welting/windlace. Edited October 25, 2019 by MooneyMitch Add content 1 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Report Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) 8 minutes ago, MooneyMitch said: . Damn.......How long does it take to get a clearance? Edited October 25, 2019 by RLCarter 1 Quote
MooneyMitch Posted October 25, 2019 Report Posted October 25, 2019 A clearance? I’m better NEVER!! Quote
larrynimmo Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Posted October 25, 2019 for what it is worth.....this company that makes door rubber gaskets is telling me with their rubber gaskets we don't need the welting anymore.... 1 Quote
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Report Posted October 25, 2019 Wind lace comes from the days of no seals on doors (auto or aircraft) now it's used as finishing trim 2 Quote
carusoam Posted October 27, 2019 Report Posted October 27, 2019 My 65C... Failing door seal... + airtex door welting... = nice looking, and kept most of the wind noise out.... The original door welt was ragged, and the foam was rock hard and broken... falling apart... First people that came for an airplane ride were terribly under impressed with my bird... I was surprised how well the soft and pliable welting tried to act like a second door seal... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- Quote
Marauder Posted October 29, 2019 Report Posted October 29, 2019 4 minutes ago, GEE-BEE said: That door seal causes door to bulge also wears out hinges and door bushings Great for leaking water...... Which seal? The one from AirTex or the Knots2U one? Quote
MooneyMitch Posted October 29, 2019 Report Posted October 29, 2019 My interior welting does not interfere with door fitment. It’s quite possible a new door seal, installed on door or fuselage door frame, can cause door fitment when newly installed ( my experiences). Quote
RLCarter Posted October 29, 2019 Report Posted October 29, 2019 1 hour ago, MooneyMitch said: My interior welting does not interfere with door fitment. It’s quite possible a new door seal, installed on door or fuselage door frame, can cause door fitment when newly installed ( my experiences). The seal that fits on the airframe (not OEM) has in their instructions to close and latch the door for a few days to help "seat" the seal. Very tight seal but will tear in a heartbeat regardless of how carefull you are Quote
jetdriven Posted October 29, 2019 Report Posted October 29, 2019 (edited) I ordered a BA706-M seal from brown aircraft seals. This is the correct factory OEM door seal. However the one I received was thick rubber stiff and flat. Not D shaped. The circular foam piece is crushed by the stiff thick flat rubber. I called them and told them the stuff is garbage and I think they’re making a new batch Edited October 29, 2019 by jetdriven Quote
PT20J Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 13 hours ago, jetdriven said: I ordered a BA706-M seal from brown aircraft seals. This is the correct factory OEM door seal. However the one I received was thick rubber stiff and flat. Not D shaped. The circular foam piece is crushed by the stiff thick flat rubber. I called them and told them the stuff is garbage and I think they’re making a new batch Byron, Are you sure that's the correct seal? According to Brown's website, it's made from 60 durometer neoprene. My M20J IPC calls for BA-189-139 (which I cannot find on Brown's website) or an alternate T-9088 which is sponge neoprene. I'm interested because I need to replace my cabin door seal as well. I bought a Knots 2U seal but I'm not sure I like the cross section. Maybe someone that's used that one can chime in with their experience. Skip Quote
RLCarter Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 My only complaint on the one that goes on the airframe is how easy it gets torn up. When I first installed it I used a dollar bill to see how it fit (sealed) all the way around both doors, very good seal but I think I want to go back to the OEM style Quote
PT20J Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 6 minutes ago, RLCarter said: My only complaint on the one that goes on the airframe is how easy it gets torn up. When I first installed it I used a dollar bill to see how it fit (sealed) all the way around both doors, very good seal but I think I want to go back to the OEM style I’ve heard that. The one I got is supposed to glue to the door. It has a V cross section rather than being hollow. Quote
RLCarter Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 4 minutes ago, PT20J said: I’ve heard that. The one I got is supposed to glue to the door. It has a V cross section rather than being hollow. I had to remove the 50 yr old glue from the doors when I changed mine, took a day and half screwing around with it. The original seal wasn't torn or deteriorated just smashed flat 1 Quote
PT20J Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 7 minutes ago, RLCarter said: I had to remove the 50 yr old glue from the doors when I changed mine, took a day and half screwing around with it. The original seal wasn't torn or deteriorated just smashed flat Yeah, that’s what I’ve got. It leaks air at the bottom in flight. My glue is only 25 years old so maybe it will be easier to remove Quote
Mark89114 Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 My door seal looks like it has ridges on it? Also will be looking at the options soon....tired of the wind noise. Quote
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