Mark89114

Maxwell told me that in flight the engine comes up a bit to make it "fit better". So I don't know if that is meaningful or not, but if it is true and you get this thing all centered on the ground and then fly it, it might be too high? All I know is that mine also doesn't seem to fit 100%. Nobody seems concerned about it and there is enough movement that I can believe Maxwells theory.

As I mentioned, my brakes are still not 100% acceptable. As others have stated here I am going to put a vacuum on the reservoir and let it sit. We tried pushing fluid from calipers up to reservoir, but the air seems to be stuck and I guess has no incentive to move out of the way. And if that doesn't work I am going to leave the vacuum on top and apply fluid pressure through the caliper as well.

I am going to provide some advice that isn't particularly useful. For whatever reason it is a PITA, these people who have flushed their brakes with no problems good for them. I think as long as you flush and don't get air in you are good. The problem gets to be when air gets in, I replaced all of the lines as the exterior lines were quite dry and brittle (somebody who sells lines says every 5 years to replace which is BS, anyway) and i figured why not replace all of them and buy another 20 years of trouble free service. Big mistake. My mechanic who I now recognize isn't that good couldn't get them bled. During the purging process we did get a huge pile of orange snotty material....my brakes never really impressed me from the time I bought the airplane. Because I rebuilt the master cylinders I had access and by changing their position was able to get a lot of additional air out of them. I think the problem comes in the original design, reservoir to pilots MC to copilots MC and then to calipers. I think the bubbles just get transferred back and forth and the near horizontal installation design of the MC allows air to stay trapped in top. Brakes still aren't 100% right, I think the next step I will try is putting a vacuum on reservoir as Shadrach says. I wish I had useful advice and 100% solution for you.

Can you elaborate and provide pictures on how you built up the seat cushions? That is next on my never ending project list.

I should probably buy a spare.....I refuse to pay what they are charging for LED's. My previous plane a C-152 I carried around spare nav and landing lights for nearly 20 years.....didn't use a damn one of them.

I am getting a new 750.....that price seems cheap unfortunately....

I am wondering if we could just make an additional tube type vent that we put in just during fueling to get the extra gallons easier.....hypothetically of course.

It is my understanding that the only operation that can legally repair these is Garmin as they are the only ones who have the repair/support manuals. Personally I don’t care about that for a screen repair. Found a guy in MN who says the screens can be repaired for $400. Going to give it a try.

Yeah, that was me complaining about it....... Garmin clearly doesn't want to support these anymore.

My avionics guy said Garmin issued a Service order that they can no longer repair 430's if they need new displays.....naturally I was about to send mine in..... Anybody know how true this is or isn't or are they just pre-signaling?

Just talked (real talk not voices in my head talking) with the PS folks, super helpful and responsive. This audio panel could come with an option for "talking", it is part of the digital warning and/or recording option. I do have an IRS which I never use. Tech said there are 4 pins and to remove them or the unit is broken internally. All I know is when I pulled power to unit, voices went away and did not come back. I think this is what has been discussed above. Just ready to write the check for a 750 and wanted to avoid unnecessary expense maybe, but the unit is 22 years old.

That is the mystery. No button to acknowledge, no turbo on the plane, have had plane for 8 years. Basic original factory avionics except for the JPI and it is older so not one of them fancy units. It just started talking to me about 10 minutes into the flight. My concern (only for my checkbook) is that this unit is about to start failing.....and while I am in there should I just remove it as well and be done with this as a future problem? Any opinions on the Garmin audio panels?

The audio panel must have heard I was thinking about upgrading the 430's to a 750 and decided it wanted to be jealous. Random training flight and I start getting a repetitive, "check engine speed" and check "boost", started repeating these 2 phrases over and over, started by providing about 15 seconds between them and then continually repeating, never heard it before, my engine monitor is an older JPI 700, so nothing fancy there. Thought it was something in the bluetooth between the phones and ipad, turned all of those off and it still continued, on the pilot side only. Tried to diagnose in the air but just couldn't figure it out. Landed OK, found the audio panel circuit breaker, pulled it, let it sit for a minute, pushed it back in and the female voice is gone. During the quoting process of the 750, not but last week the avionics shop asked me if I had any problems with the audio panel. Naturally I said "no problems", I don't want to pay for a remote audio panel when this one is working fine......Now I am questioning that statement. Everything is 22 years old so maybe it is failing? Need some guidance before I spend money I don't need to spend.

I will take 2 at that bargain price.

To be honest the original paint didn't look that bad......I wish mine looked that good.

My fuel pickup line was leaking....all in the same area as the fuel senders. I would only get a whiff when making a right hand descending turn, guess the air flow would push more of the vapors into the cabin. Bought the new gasket, followed instructions for install from a MSC, no sealant and it still leaked even thought I assume the original factory install had sealant all over it. Ended up using fuel sealant anyway.

Depends are you in the business of selling hoses or brake fluid? My one data point, I decided to replace all of my brake hoses because during the bleeding process a black filmy stuff was coming out of the tube. I suspect the original 5606 fluid was original as during the flushing process we flushed out a bunch of big ugly orange boogers of material, but the brakes still worked fine. Replacing with Royco 760 (or some number) and apparently it doesn't break down as it is fully synthetic or new and improved. Based on the troubles I am having I would just leave it alone until something becomes broken. But I think the general consensus with old 5606 is every 4-5 years but doesn't mean that is right either.

As previously mentioned, I am having a heck of a time getting them bled. My mechanic insisted on doing the same thing over and over.....that is another discussion. I think the problem is that the dual brake systems during traditional bleeding simply passes the air bubbles from side to side. What eventually worked is forcing fluid from the caliper up and out from the reservoir, I removed the master cylinders and allowed the air to flow upward, just doing that I could see the bubbles move up and out, shook them around a bit as well and that made some difference.

I am struggling with this as well....my mechanic is not super helpful. I rebuilt the master cylinders with new o-rings, there isn't a lot to go wrong on this....in my opinion. Put all new hoses as I was having evidence of a hose coming apart somewhere. We can't get them bled, the mechanic is convinced we are pulling air....which I think is BS as we would also be showing signs of leaking. Anyway bought the new seals, not a lot of $, but it irritates me. My other mechanic says that is nonsense but he isn't doing the annual so I have too much invested to jump ship. Curious how much slop people have at the end of the Parker 10-24D master cylinders....in my opinion it seems like a lot but there isn't any standard that I am aware of. We have tried pressurizing from the top, bottom, etc. No luck. Per somebody elses reccomendation above and the other mechanics, sometimes flying it around allows the bubbles to work their way out.

As someone who has just redone the lower 2/3 of the interior, I know why Hector is out of the actual remove and reinstall. It is a skinny young mans game. My 53 y.o. fat self was tired of climbing in and out and bending and contorting. Here is what I did. SCS for the carpet, I bought the higher dollar wool blend material, I think it provides a higher quality look than the polyster/plastic carpet blend. The old carpet was glued in which took several hours to remove, I reinstalled using velcro, the instructions from SCS weren't brilliant. Basically glued the velcro to the carpet with contact cement, I used the stick off glue that was already on the velcro to attach to airframe, will see how that holds up, but it is not like it is removed ever. For the sidewalls I stripped the old ultraleather from the fiberglass panels, removed the old glue which was a PITA basically removing any left over glue which will telegraph through the new material. I used ultraleather. I did the work myself, started with copilot side as experiment, it came out perfect, the key is to plan how to stretch the material around the curves. I did it by myself and guess I got lucky as I am happy with the job. I have a "friend" who claims to be an "expert" do the larger pilot panel. Her work wasn't nearly as good as mine and it took her forever, once the 3M 90 adhesive is sprayed on, the actual laying of the material doesn't take long, it is also unforgiving, maybe plan to have people to hold the corners as the material is stretched around the contours. The few plastic parts I painted with SEM plastic paint. I am not sure about the durability of this product. Time will tell. I painted the rear seat pan and the other associated parts to match or contrast as necessary. The headliner and seats have yet to be redone.....so the airplane looks worse now, new sidewalls and carpet with aging seats and headliner, makes the old parts look spectacularly crappy.

My 430W screens are failing fast and I decided rather than fix the old ones to squander some money. Local on the field avionics shop is quoting me $17K for the install of a 650xi and in the meantime I have decided to go all in and get a 750xi, so will be waiting on that piece quote as well. First of all, it all seems expensive so I have gotten use to that and just going to spend it regardless. Going to keep and repair one of the 430W unless someone convinces me differently. Just started this thought process.

I bought some of these gauges that were marked for propane bottles or something. I have been meaning to test fit them to see how they fit in our holes. The ones I bought did NOT have flanges on them. I am only out about $15 for the two of them. I would think if I get motivated enough I will mount one in the lathe cut the top off and then just reglue onto the old one. I doubt they wear out mechanically. I started this project and got distracted by other nonsense. I had to buy a new one years ago, maybe $100+? little bit pissed about it as it leaked moisture into the gauge and forced me to remove it and reweld it with some type of solvent glue. So we aren't paying for a high quality product. We are paying for the low volume and the custom template. will get to the hangar (hanger) near future and get some pictures.

My 2000 ovation is doing the same thing in almost the same spots, but only on the top. Bottom of wing looks fine. Someone did a scuff and squirt at some point in time and that paint is coming off, but the base original factory coat is also peeling back around some spots. As mentioned, it is just poor prep work or maybe that is just the way it is after 23 years of flex on mine and nearly 40 on yours? I am going to start considering how to repair as where the paint has peeled back it has some light surface corrosion that I need to get cleaned up.

Regardless of the buttonology I believe the aerocruze is a bendix king product which has less than a stellar reputation last two decades.

I wonder if this is going to become a taxable benefit if you are using this card for business reasons? Capital One required me to fill out some type of form. I guess the IRS is busy looking for those $600 venmo transactions rather than the billions/trillions wasted elsewhere.