M20E ignition switch...

[drapo]

I have a 65 M20E and the ignition switch is acting up, meaning it won't send continuous power when I turn the key to the "Starter" position. I looked up in the part manual and the # is : 10-26680-2 which is a "Push to start" switch ... You see my problem...

Anyone else has got a "Turn to start" switch or are they all "Push to start" as in the parts manual?

It seems that TCM-Bendix stopped manufacturing #10-126680-2 and has replaced it with #10-357210-1, anyone can confirm that and can I put a "Turn to start" # 10-357200-1 instead?

Thanks for the help!

[Hank]

My C has a push-to-start. Turn it to start and push in simultaneously. If I do it wrong, I have to release it, then turn-and-push again; holding it turned and trying to push it in does nothing.

[knute]

I'm not sure what you're asking- you don't like the "push to start" function?  (My '66 E has the 10-126680 in it, and it seems to work fine)  What would the problem be with replacing the 10-126680 with a newer 10-357210-1, which is the current TCM cross reference?

Bendix SB-583 addresses the cross reference of the newer switches that supercede the older no-longer-in-production ones, and also points out that it is not recommended at this point to service the old ones beyond replacing the contacts.  (repair kit w/ support plate and contacts is 10-357515 for both the 10-126680 and the newer 10-357210-1)  When mine eventually goes out, I plan to put in 10-357210-1, and thought I was going to have to this last fall but the problem turned out to be instead a bad Shower of Sparks, which had to be replaced.  Starts like a champ now.

In case it's helpful, SB-583 can be found at: http://www.csobeech.com/files/Bendix_SB-583.pdf

[drapo]

I was just wondering about what type of switches were installed, sounds like it is the "Push to start" so I will replace the switch with that model, as the one installed in my Mooney isn't the aproved part . Thanks Guys,

[carusoam]

Anyone,

Is the push to start switch a study in human factors.  My fingers are sore by the time 10 seconds of pushing and starting have happened.  Cold days are worse.  Always hope for a quick start.

Am I not activating the switch the right way? 

I can see why someone may have replaced it with an alternative.

I guess sore fingers keep pilots from overheating the starter.

Best regards,

-a-

[aerobat95]

Amen....I have the same problem....my fingers are killing me starting mine....I was wondering if they have a key to energize and then a push button start like a car.  I would love to have a set up like that....I hate the turn and push. 

[Hank]

When my left [cranking] mag was dying, it took forever and several attempts to crank her up. Don't recall having sore fingers, hot or cold weather, from the little filing-cabinet-sized key. Maybe the little 50¢ colored rubber thingy helps with more than putting the correct key in the ignition? Mine are coded Blue for bags, Green for go [the door], and Red for fire [ignition]; should be available anywhere that makes keys.

[sleepingsquirrel]

My B model has turn/push to start, I've been thinking about brazing a door knob to my key but then I couldn't get it in my pocket.

[scottfromiowa]

More shower time?

[Andy95W]

Per Bendix Service Bulletin SB 583, Ignition Switch part number 10-357210-1 is the replacement for the old 10-126680-2. BTW, Aircraft Spruce appears to sell them.

[1964-M20E]

I occasionally hav trouble keeping the starter engaged on mine I called the former owner and he said not to turn it all the way jsut wait for the shower to start then push. Seems to work. I've looked at the ones where you just turn the switch to start and it engages the shower at the same time.

[N601RX]

Here is the one I used. It comes with matching locks for the doors.

http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/elpages/igswitches2.php?clickkey=5735

[1964-M20E]

That is the one I was looking at.

[N601RX]

dp

[N601RX]

If its slow to start, have the shower of sparks checked. If its functioning correctly, it will crank immediately. Here is a link to a video I posted of mine a while back after tuning it up. The gap is set to 5mm in the video as the manual calls for. Fixing the underlying problem is a lot cheaper than repalcing the starter .

http://mooneyspace.com/topic/8019-hard-to-start/?hl=%2Bshower+%2Bsparks

[Steve65E-NC]

I have heard of folks dissambling this switch and cleaning up the triangular contacts and solving this problem. All the wires to the switch can be marked and disconnected, or you can just unscrew the back. Careful, lots of little springs and contacts. But managable for someone handy. Talk to your A&P or radio shop.

[AmigOne]

I also use the technique that 1964-M20E uses and do not turn the key all the way,  in addition if for some reason it does not start immediately (rarely) and in winter then I wear a glove. In fact if you do turn the key all the way quickly there is a risk that the vibrator will not trigger and you will not notice it because the engine is cranking and as a consequence it will not start.  

[HRM]

Is there a model of this switch that has the flat knob instead of a key? Is that allowed? 

[garytex]

Steve65E is right about being able to clean the contacts. He's also right about there be lots of little spring-loaded parts and you have to watch your peas and cues to do it. Scotch-Brite works great

[M20F-1968]

I have a replacement switch if you are interested.

 

John Breda

(617) 877-0025