oldn0tded Posted October 31, 2015 Report Posted October 31, 2015 I'm looking for some group input. The background: 1975 M20F, IO-360-A1A, 2810 TT, 900 TSMOH. Engine is sagging, starter does not touch, but the alignment is not correct. Engine mounts are roughly 30 years old. The current part is #J-9613-12 (all four), as listed in the engine logs. Here's the question: Is there anybody out there that has looked at the parts manual (concerning engine mounts) and picked up on the idea of there being TWO different mounts specified? As in, since the engine "hangs" from the mount, the upper mounts are under a diffent stress load than the bottom mounts. A different mount is specified for the different locations. Part II: Is this a big enough question to lose sleep over? Apparently, it wasn't for the previous owner, and I haven't seen anything on this prior (and YES, I did search). So, what does the group say??? Oldnotdead
KSMooniac Posted October 31, 2015 Report Posted October 31, 2015 I just replaced my mounts on my J with Lord mounts. Same part number at all 4 locations, but the top ones go in the opposite direction from the lowers. I expect the F is similar, but check your parts catalog and service manual. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
Marauder Posted October 31, 2015 Report Posted October 31, 2015 I'm looking for some group input.The background: 1975 M20F, IO-360-A1A, 2810 TT, 900 TSMOH. Engine is sagging, starter does not touch, but the alignment is not correct. Engine mounts are roughly 30 years old. The current part is #J-9613-12 (all four), as listed in the engine logs. Here's the question: Is there anybody out there that has looked at the parts manual (concerning engine mounts) and picked up on the idea of there being TWO different mounts specified? As in, since the engine "hangs" from the mount, the upper mounts are under a diffent stress load than the bottom mounts. A different mount is specified for the different locations. Part II: Is this a big enough question to lose sleep over? Apparently, it wasn't for the previous owner, and I haven't seen anything on this prior (and YES, I did search). So, what does the group say??? Oldnotdead I have a 1975 F and at the last overhaul, part number 600155-503 were used on all 4 and described as Lord mounts. Here is a thread on it: Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Marauder Posted October 31, 2015 Report Posted October 31, 2015 BTW - I happened to help a friend load his engine from his J on a truck for an overhaul. The top mounts were mounted differently than the lower ones but they had the same part number on them. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Guest Posted October 31, 2015 Report Posted October 31, 2015 Usually the mount with the ring around it or step in the rubber goes on the compression side, ie on the back of the upper and the front of the lower. Clarence
oldn0tded Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Posted October 31, 2015 Usually the mount with the ring around it or step in the rubber goes on the compression side, ie on the back of the upper and the front of the lower. Clarence I have noticed this "ring"....didn't know the significance... It seems the same mount, J-9613-12, mounted with the "harder" side in compression is the way to go.
oldn0tded Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Posted October 31, 2015 "I have a 1975 F and at the last overhaul, part number 600155-503 were used on all 4 and described as Lord mounts." Here is a thread on it: Marauder, The link didn't make the electronic voyage.... The parts manual that I have doesn't list the 600155-503 part number, but I think, after some research, that is the # Mooney puts on the Lord mount # J-9613-12....I think. Also, the part numbers I have in my manual might be for each HALF, and the 9613-12 number is for the assembly, I think. I'm spending some time on trying to make sense of a copy of a copy of a copy of a manual that appears to have been put together in the middle 70's. I'm sure you know what I mean..... Old not dead
cliffy Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 Changing mounts is not a real big problem. Do it one at a time. They are the same part # and are flipped for the compression side to be correct. Use a cherry picker to support the engine as they are all loosened at the same time but removed and replaced one at a time.. If new mounts don't cure all the sag you can shim the lower ones with a thick large area washer with a slot cut to the center the width of the bolt and slide it in when loose then tighten the bolts to the correct torque. There is a correct torque for the mount bolts so they can provide the correct shock absorption, I want to sat 30 foot pounds but I'd have to look it up to be sure. 1
Guest Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 The 7/16" bolts through the Lord mounts are normally torqued to 450-500 inch pounds. Clarence
jetdriven Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 ...plus the running torque on the lock nut. I couldn't get a torque wrench on it anyhow.
Piloto Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 On the bottom mounts I installed an additional washer between the Lord and the engine to keep the engine from sagging as the Lords age. It worked very well after 7 years. The engine is centered with the cowling. José
Alan Fox Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 Where does the engine sit when it is running at 75% power twisting on the mount??
Wakeup Posted November 4, 2015 Report Posted November 4, 2015 Dumb question?? How do I know I'm sagging?
Andy95W Posted November 4, 2015 Report Posted November 4, 2015 Not a dumb question. As always, Don Maxwell to the rescue! http://www.donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/Alining Engine Using Shims/ALIGNING_YOUR_ENGINE.HTML
jamesm Posted November 4, 2015 Report Posted November 4, 2015 Not sure if this applies to you.. But years ago I learned that on my '67C with Lyc O 360-A1D engine the nuts the holds the engine to the engine mounts comes in 2 sizes meaning that thread size were the same but the wrench size had two different sizes for the same part number. If I recall correctly one was 11/16" and the other 5/8". I had the larger wrench size nut which caused enough interference with the nut and the engine mount well that it took me added effort and time to separate engine from engine mount. Had to make sacrificial wrench to remove the engine from the engine mount. Hope this helps. James '67C
Hank Posted November 4, 2015 Report Posted November 4, 2015 Dumb question?? How do I know I'm sagging? If you can run without holding the waist of your pants, you aren't sagging. See The Don's article above to find out how to tell when your engine is sagging.
Wakeup Posted November 4, 2015 Report Posted November 4, 2015 I have 99 problems but Sag is not one. :)
Marauder Posted November 4, 2015 Report Posted November 4, 2015 I have 99 problems but Sag is not one. It's purdy! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk 1
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