Marauder

I have the Aspen 2000, GTN-650 and STEC 60-2. You didn't provide us much context, so I can't tell if you are dealing with a new installation or an old installation with a new problem. I am going to assume this is a new installation, that it was done correctly and you are learning the new hardware. 1) If you have the 430's CDI set to LOC, you will need to make sure it is switched to GPS. 2) If step one is correct, make sure the Aspen is set to GPS. The center button cycles between the various nav signals. See picture below. 3) If you have it set to a valid GPS signal and have an RNAV approach loaded, verify on the GPS that you are seeing either an LPV or LNAV/VNAV. You won't get a glideslope with the other approaches.

Which is a great improvement over the late model Fs which attached the VR using nuts & bolts through the firewall. Ouch! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

In addition to what Byron (jet driven) commented about (the little insulating washers on each headset jack port), make sure the ports themselves are not near anything that could allow them to make contact with anything metallic. I had a similar issue that only manifested itself at higher power settings. Turns out that when Bruce installed the Spatial Designs interior, the new mounting place for the rear headsets allowed them to contact the foil backed insulation on the sidewalls.

Thanks for the update David. Hope this pull together for you on this project. Still waiting on the sidelines. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

If you want to see a really ugly screen pull, take a gander at this one. Friend’s Piper 140. Plane sat for 29 years. Flew it for the past 5 years and had a low compression on a cylinder. Once the cylinder was off they started finding tons of rust. Pictures are from the shop rebuilding the engine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Just the opposite. The Tempest fine wires have been losing center electrodes (I have experienced one failure already with less than 300 hours on them). The massive Champions had an issue with high resistance of the electrode (I also had this issue with 6 of 8 being too high, leading to installing the Tempest). With the redesign of the Champion massive mentioned above, I have a complete set of new plugs waiting for the next Tempest fishing weight to be produced. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

As Hank mentioned, sheepskin keeps the seats cool in the summer and warm in the winter. I flew for a year without covers, very noticeable when the covers were installed.

Hmmm. No one has installed Bruce's super deluxe, made by himself, better than original, fuel sump cover?

At the risk of Santa's little wife helper finding out, I am selling my 255B to a friend, adding a 355 and pulling the 60-2 for a GFC 500/G5. The 60-2 works great, but I always wanted IAS climbs, altitude capture and more importantly, the capability of 1 button recovery for my wife.

Ho Ho HO! Don't you know you're a naughty boy when you ask Santa these kinds of question on public forums where Santa's little wife helper can see them? Ho, Ho, HO!

When I removed my old carpeting, they used contact adhesive on the foam on the back of the carpet. What a mess it was to remove from the aluminum. Bruce Jaeger told me to glue the carpet down with a 3M contact adhesive. I am wondering if it is a good idea to glue them down. I haven't flown with them yet but the foam seems to stay put - at least on the runners going under the seats. If they don't slide, I may just leave them free.

The cutout pattern was the way to go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Seats were redone in leather just before Bruce did the interior. Sabremech's cowl and paint comes after some more avionics upgrades. Shhhh... the wife doesn't know about that...

I thought I would revive this thread in case anyone is looking at the Airtex carpets. I ordered a set for my 75F about a month ago. It arrived but the center piece was for a Johnson Bar version. I also noted that the carpets didn't fit quite right. The main reason was that using Bruce Jaeger's Spatial Designs changed the width of the cabin a bit. I called up Airtex and spoke with Mark. He said if I could make paper cutouts of the carpeted areas in my plane, they would make up a new set. After sending them the cutouts, they made a new set for me. They fit perfect. What they didn't do was cutout the fuel selector or floor gear indicator. I think the reason they didn't do this is because there will always be a little bit of play in the placement of the rug. The rug isn't that hard to cut and allowing me to cut it myself allowed a more accurate fit. As for the quality of the rugs. I got samples from SCS. The quality of the AirTex are the same quality as SCS's "featherweight" version. Airtex include the Ensolite foam backing at no charge and it costs $289+shipping. SCS equivalent is $495.50 (added the Ensolite backing to make it apples to apples). I looked at the wool version but my outer Cheap Bastard couldn't see paying $1820 for rugs. We will see how well they wear...

Thanks Ant Man. I looked the list over and haven't found anything. I think if I had a picture of one of Bruce's install, it would answer the question.

After 30 annuals, I find the most dangerous flight is the first one after an annual. I would love to think the mechanics I have used are as careful as I am, but alas I have found the manual latch lever in the state you found it a couple of times. I have added it to my checklist. When I get my plane back from an annual, I feel like I am doing another annual. It is amazing the stuff I have found over the years. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Bruce did my interior a couple of years ago and I am now just getting around to new carpets. Bruce left a couple of pieces which are suppose to replace the existing fuel sump cover. Anyone have a picture of what it looks like installed? I think I could install the black piece under the white one or vice versa. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I have an EI Tach. Great unit. Answered your questions above.

I don’t know if there is a recommended time limit but like the oil pressure line that comes into the cockpit to supply that gauge, if it has been in there for more than 10 years, I would not hesitate replacing it. I suspect many are in there for the lifetime of the plane. I have a friend with a J model and the fuel pressure line actually leaked onto the feet of his passenger. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I suspect you have some sort of obstruction in the fuel line going to the gauge or in the inlet of the gauge. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Mike, I am not sure of the exact mechanism that is used in the Aspen to measure airspeed. If it is a mechanical bellows like a normal ASI, I suspect it could have been damaged. As for the 20 to 30 KIAS that you see. I have seen airspeed while in a static position in two different scenarios. The first is I am facing the wind and it is actually blowing above 20 knots and the second is if I face the plane forward and I have a right crosswind while doing a run up. I suspect the latter is some of the prop blast hitting the pitot. In both cases I would see these periodically, not on every flight. I would make sure you are current on your firmware. There is an outstanding AD on resets but who knows what else they add into the firmware updates. Also, if you have a second MFD 1000, you could crosscheck things by placing the second unit in reversion mode. That is how I figured out what I was seeing on the PFD was weather related.

I was a long time owner of the original Field's door seal. Mine was installed in the late 1980s and was on the plane until it failed a couple of years ago (the seal started cracking in too many places to repair with the recommended RTV). The seal makes a huge difference in air noise around the door in flight. Since removing it, I have yet to find a good mechanical seal that does as good of a job. The downside has been the sealing when you are not flying. I found that when I pumped it up a few pumps (wasn't that a Saturday night live thing "Pump you up!"?) and then closed the door, it would leak down over time. It may have been due to aging of the seal (I don't remember seeing this as a big issue during the 1990s). To work around this, I placed a layer of RTV around the door frame that the Field's seal would rest against without inflating it.

The FlightStream only uses the WiFi for database uploads and once you connect to Garmin Pilot, it switches to Bluetooth so you can do flight plan adjustments on the iPad (or GTN) and port it over to the opposite device. If you are seriously considering the FS510, I would give it a big thumb’s up just for the database downloads. Since I have multiple displays for showing ADS-B In stuff (Aspens, Garmin 650 and the Lynx), I typically don’t use my primary iPad to connect to the Lynx. I will use my FltPln Go app on my cell phone and connect to the Lynx as a backup. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I do wonder why they didn't try to put it down on the road.

My Lynx WiFi has worked fine since it was installed. If I have any complaint, it is soooo fast to connect that it beats out the Garmin Wifi connection. I had to set the Wifi "ask to join" setting on my iPad to "on" to allow me to connect to the FlightStream 510 first.