Marauder

When I saw your DOS comment, I had to dig out an old sweatshirt I had. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

What is happening out there is that some local FSDOs are approving the G5 while technically the STC doesn’t. As Clarence pointed out, it is pure stupidity that I can pull my vacuum system and fly around with just a G5 but it can’t be used to backup a solution that is primary. What the Aspen Max is doing is allowing for a degraded AI performance using supplemental data rather than only relying on sole pitot static input found on the non-Max. The L-3 ESI-500 functions this way as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Have you checked with Aspen about cutting you a deal on the MFD? That’s what got me into the MFD earlier than I had planned. And if the avionics shop is installing the current Aspen non-Max hardware, see if Aspen will offer the step to the Max at no charge. Don’t work through the avionics shop, go to Aspen and ask who the regional sales person is for your area. Call them and explain the situation. It may be worth the call. I went through my upgrade as a two step process. I installed the MFD and was able to dump the VSI but opted to leave the ASI and altimeter in as well as the vacuum system (didn’t buy the extended battery version) - another hindsight thing. On round two, which included the ADS-B upgrade, I installed an L-3 ESI-500 and dumped the ASI, altimeter and vacuum system. This included cutting a new panel. The L-3 has the Nav enablement turned on and it is a backup to the PFD’s HSI and a backup to the MFD’s HSI. If I had to do it all over again, I would have done it all at once. A second upgrade just adds more costs to what I really wanted to begin with. As a final option, with the Max coming out, if you cannot get them to cut you a deal, why not just wait until the Max is available and get the MFD and not deal with another backup? Phase 1: Phase 2: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Tom - any clue how to shut off the ADS-B stream from a Lynx 9000? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That would be lead. And it is caused by not leaning aggressively enough on the ground. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nope. Mine will show less than 10 on startup (windows, vents and door closed). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Hence my request for evidence in controlled studies... Toss in variables like “evolving” metallurgy, engine usage, maintenance (how frequently the oil is changed), temperatures & humidity of the environment, etc., I don’t think there is a straightforward recommendation. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah, unfortunately I noticed the hoses after the order. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Time to open that “ADS-B R US” shop Jerry. I suspect that 22% of the GA fleet is probably half of those that need to or want to. There are a number of Hanks out there who are saying “I don’t need no stink in’ ADS-B”. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

So people often ask me my philosophy on maintenance. I could say, I fix stuff, and only that stuff that breaks. That ain’t me... I decided that I’m going to rebuild both master cylinders and the parking while I have everything apart. I noticed my brake lines (the flexible ones in the gear bays) look a bit shoddy. So where do you buy replacement sets? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

That is a great story about the twin. Both had to be in their 80s for that trip! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I was wondering about that correlation. I think adding a desiccator to the system would pull the moisture out. The question comes down to Larry’s findings that at a 25% humidity level, no corrosion would occur. I also wonder if the humidity remains constant throughout the engine area. I think that is why Mike B speaks about really insulating the entire engine and prop. Any cold areas would be a magnet for condensation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Curious where your GPS antenna are located. There was a clearance requirement on mine that forced one of the top antenna to the bottom. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

When mine was installed the remote alert light was required if it was a certain distance from the center line view. Mine was installed within that distance, but I had the alert light installed anyway. I see now they have a maximum allowable distance for both horizontal and vertical installations. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I think if you find someone who works in aluminum and has the necessary tool (brake) and skills, they can make one. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Do you have a picture of it? Mine was removed for Jaeger’s Spatial Interior. Not sure your 78 emergency gear extension is the same as mine. If it is, you can have the piece. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

That’s exactly what I have and there would be no way I could gain access to the reservoir without it. I think a buddy’s 79!J has the reservoir in the avionics bay. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Dave at Lasar said there two different cylinder types. Mine are the Cleveland version. Looks like you have the other version. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I started lessons and then did the King tapes to get the written done. As for the optimum pace. I scheduled for 5 days a week and flew on average 3. Was ready for the check ride around month 4. I found a structure curriculum worked for me and I went to a 141 school. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Does anyone know which master cylinder I have? This is the kit will overhaul a 10-30, 10-30A, 10-30C, or 10-300 Master Cylinder Assembly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Any preference between these 2? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I’ll snap a picture of mine tonight and post. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I have heard a little bit of dragging a couple of times. Wasn’t enough to be able to say which side was doing it. Just that rubbing sound. As for the master cylinder, is there a rebuild kit for them? Or is there a company out there that rebuilds them? Thanks for the reply. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

I did follow the linkage down through the floor and looked over the linkages. Nothing obvious. I couldn’t observe the movement when it was being pushed and pulled. Terry and I will look at that. Thanks. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Last week I noticed my right brake pedal extended a little further back than the left and didn’t return. The braking on the right side was slightly softer than the left side. I thought I understood the brake system, but I am perplexed on whether I am dealing with an air in the line situation or perhaps something like a seal leaking internally in the master or elsewhere. Looking at this picture you can tell the right pedal is further depressed than the left. When I pull on the pedal, it returns to the correct position but I can feel a little detent or bump when I pull. Ignore the rug, Santa promised me new ones for Christmas (I promised him I would be less naughty this year). Terry H will be coming over this week to implement the “solution” but I decided to troubleshoot what I could. I checked over the calibers and did not see any evidence of leaks. Terry and I replaced the pads last year. Looking at the reservoir, the level is about 1.5” from the top of the tank. What a pain to get to it. Not sure if the level should be higher than where it is. I did notice a little bit of fluid in the area where the parking brake valve is. I would think if it was leaking here, both brakes would be affected. Finally, I pulled the access panel to check on the master cylinders and found them bone dry. Anyone have any ideas whether what I am seeing is an air in the line situation or something else? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro