M20F-1968

It has been about 5 years since I have used Corrosion X. The plane is in a heated hangar in Massachusetts, but I do need to do it again. Can anyone describe the process. I assume I can do it in sections. I know the autopilot servos need to be protected. I am told the avionics do not need to be, buy the thought of spraying that stuff into or onto expensive avionics does not sound right. How much do you need and at what location and entry site? John Breda

This is not specifically on point, but I am in the Boston area and there are some great locations for a day or weekend fly-in. Nantucket, MA, Martha's Vinyard, MA, Block Island, RI, East Hampton, NY, other NE airports along the coast, Rockport, ME, Chatham, MA etc... Once the Covid thing passes, it would be good to arrange something. John Breda

I have not used the Precise Flight System as MH posted some research data that suggested that their system was more reliable. I do not recall the details just now as it was 4 years or more since I read it. In any case, when I have the opportunity I will try it. I too have a MH back-up O2 rescue bottle sold by MH called Co-pilot. I do not see it any longer on their site which makes me wonder if the bottles are still available. I also have a small 10" or so high medical bottle with regulator which I also have not used. I guess I have some homework to do to compare these. Back to me posted question, when using a mask with a microphone, what cable is used to make the connection to the mask microphone and bypass the headset microphone? John Breda

What do you guys use as a electrical cable to connect to the mask microphone (and bypass the headset microphone? I use DC headsets with in panel power jacks (But I also have Bose Connectors installed). The cable I use must disconnect the microphone from the circuit and connect the mask microphone (either by switch or hard wiring). John Breda

I have both the O2D2 system and the Precise Flight. I started using to O2D2 and found it so easy to use that I never have used the Precise Flight system. Do you recommend the Precise Flight over the O2D2. If so, perhaps I will give it a try. John Breda

I retrofitted an Ovation interior into my F model. I have attached some pictures. The center ceiling panel that has the switches is held in the ceiling with only two screws in the center portion of the long panel. I would not buy the factory electroluminescent panel as it is too expensive and is made with a plastic backing. You can use the factory switches and mounting box. I made an aluminum backplate and sent it out to make a more durable electroluminescent panel which is a functional copy of the Mooney panel (I'll send a picture of this new panel). The switches only need to be rocker switches approved for aircraft use (used in any certified aircraft). Wentworth aircraft or other salvage yards could be a good source. The center ceiling console can be gotten from Mooney, from a salvage yard, or you can do a hand lay-up with fiberglass which would be cheaper and can be custom fitted to your ceiling. I have the right and left Ovation fiberglass roof panels which I would be willing to sell. I purchased them from Mooney, and started to fit them into my F. (I then ended up with two sets as I obtained a full Ovation interior from a salvage yard.) They can be retrofitted to your aircraft in a similar manner as what I did. John Breda

I never quantified the svings, but I would not doubt the 40% quoted. The O2D2 is a must have system. John Breda

I think it is a Craftsman

I use a Snap-On 3/8" drive torque wrench that has a hinged head with a 1" standard socket. Fits on the oil filter without a problem. John Breda

Skybolt has fasteners with larger flanges which have greater overlap and can fix some of the problem. Jetdriven's description is accurate. The real fix is to grind out the fiberglass until you his the 1 1/2" or so wide metal strip embedded in the fiberglass. This metal strip needs to be replaced, re-fiberglassed and new holes drilled. Using the Skybolt fasteners would be a plus. The 4000 series are adjustable and the size is appropriate fir the cowling/firewall interface. They have larger flanges. The 2000 series are smaller, can be used between the top and lower cowling, and can also be ordered with a larger flange. This will delay wear of the new holes as well. If you hollow out the inside of the cowling, you will save repainting, but you will need to re-fiberglass and sand to fit the old dimensions. John Breda

The past few months have been devoted to some finishing of projects and routine maintenance. I am thinking more and more about retirement so my flight time should increase.

I have been there, done that in my 68 F. With the turbo normalizer everything is shoehorned into the cowling. The 231 is likely similar. Yes, the baffling can be made, and likely can be made better than the factory version, however the tolerance are tight, which means work goes slowly taking and fitting constantly. Some parts can not be fit tested without the cowling on, so expect to spend a great deal of time on this project. It is not a simple as it looks. John Breda

Any of the seats will fit. I have all 4 seats from a 1998 Ovation. At least in mine, the holes in the rails were 0.050" less deep than in the newer Ovation rails. Nothing a well controlled drill and a 0.250" drill bit couldn't remedy. John Breda

I have a highly modified 1968 F model. Turbo normalized, modern airplane, 90 gallons of fuel, all applicable speed mods, 201 windshield, J model cowling, full flap, aileron, hinge and dorsal gap seals. At 10,000 feet in summer, with everything forward = 168 kts, 10,000 feet at 75% power = 160 kts, 17,000 - 18,000 feet, 75% power 175-178 kts and LOP 170 - 174 kts. John Breda

It would be great if you could post the electronic files of these ads in the download section of Mooneyspace or share a Google drive posting if the files are large. John Breda

If someone has electronic copies of Parts and Service Manuals for the F (mine is a 68) and the J (my plane is now similar to a J and I am told the J manuals are more complete) I would like a copy. My e-mail is john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda

The reference line is needed. These fuel pumps are difficult to find as cores. Rebuild your old one. I have used Aircraft Accessories of OK in the past. I am sorry to say their quality control may have decreased (I'll leave it at that). Quality Aircraft Accessories may be an option. John Breda

Aero Comfort will only provide a boot that is tall, and risks a considerable amount of material be be between the upright Johnson bar and the wheel well cover. This is not want you want as the most important function of the Johnson Bar is to put the gear DOWN. You want to have nothing between the upright bar and the wheel-well, otherwise you will risk not being able to put the gear down. The Factory produced a Johnson bar boot that is essentially flat, but with appropriately placed darts to allow the hole in the material to be immediately adjacent to the pivot point, which is below the floor. There should be some stretch, but the fabrication of the boot should not rely on the stretch of the material much. I should be as wrinkle free as possible. I am changing my boot now as the original one was made of Euroleather and was ripped and worn. I have some stretchy leather which I think will be more durable. The factory used a plastic-like backing, I think to guard against CO. I am not using that as I am trying to make this as simple and as thin as possible, without resorting to crappy materials. John Breda

I have a 1968 F model with a Johnson bar. It is a completely rebuilt and modernized airplane, and of course I have spent a good deal of time thinking about what to do about that hole in the floor. Everything about this airplane is tight and shoe-horned in. The Johnson Bar boot is no exception. Everyone that makes an aftermarket J bar boot does it incorrectly. I did some research in 2005 with the factory and learned how it was done back then. I also have the old part from 1968 (I just can not put my hands on it now). Many people have told me it can not be made from leather, but they were proven wrong as well. I use thin goat hides, make a pyramid, invert the pyramid so the bulk of it is under the floor, and use either a small cuff (or better yet a rubber O ring) sewn into the boot. The leather will stretch and keeping the opening in the boot close to the pivot point under the floor is key. It was a tricky project with lots of experimenting. I am making a new one again and can send pics when finished. John Breda

My thought exactly and I have the evidence to prove it.......

The leading edge is the same, the only difference is the outboard lap joint is riveted son the the outboard leading edge tip is about 1 1/2" lower than usual. It is not really a twisted wing, but rather the outboard wing section has a slightly lower angle of attack. John Breda

I have a 68 F which is highly modified and has a twisted wing. At 10,000 ft, wide open it is a 168 kt airplane, at 10,000 ft at 75% power it is a 160 kt airplane, and at 17,000 ft it is a 170-175 kt airplane. I have heard other say the twisted wing is slower but in my experience, I would say not. Where do you get your information. John Breda

The STEC works, is paid for, and I get to avoid tearing the airplane apart. John Breda

I have some powder from the powder coating left over if you want the name. Matches the lighter color of the 2-tone seats and sidewalls. The contrast between the light panel and black instruments is nice. More modern looking. It stays relatively clean, but I keep the plane very clean regularly. John Breda

I did the install on my 1968 F. My brakes and master cylinders came from a 1998 Ovation. The brake pedals and stems are the same. The master cylinders are updated and installed with DER approval. Most of the time is spent forming the aluminum lines. I also used the Ovation parking brake. Bill Wheat sent me the drawings of what he felt to be the preferred system. He said to stay away for the system that has a shuttle valve. I likely have the drawings in my electronic files. John Breda