M20F

I have a variety of cheap ones, the old shake to power flashlight, but what I use almost exclusively is: http://www.surefire.com/illumination/headlamps/minimus.html Not for the CB but is highly awesome for not just flying but assorted other things. I use it out in the bush hunting and it has been dropped, drowned, crushed, etc. and just keeps on working. The only thing that took me some time to figure out is when not in use reverse the battery. Because it has a twist on it tends to get turned on if it gets knocked around in seat back pocket where I keep it. Now when I need it the battery isn't dead :-)

Flew in today and the skid and burn mark is still highly visible on the south end of 27 threshold at a 45 degree angle. Thumbs up to the blue and white Mooney M who passed 100' under my right wing (about 1700 feet) about 100' laterally doing 135+ knots, no gear down, etc. right at Fisk. Continues to amaze me that people can't be bothered to read or perhaps comprehend the 3-4 relevant pages in the Notam. The F-22 I have to say was pretty awesome, I need to get me one of those.

Using the rough thumb of 10% TAS + 5 to calculate approximate bank angle for a standard rate turn at 90 mph you would have a bank angle of @13 degrees which makes for a wider pattern than I would be comfortable with and is going to raise the chances of over shooting / under shooting with a crosswind. The main reason people stall/spin is the under/overshoot and then bank and crank the stick back. While you can stall at any speed and attitude if the nose is down and the wings are unloaded it isn't going to happen even with a 90 degree bank. Holding your base and final speeds while descending (nose down) makes it perfectly safe to bank sufficiently to keep a tight pattern. Personally I use 30-45 degrees in a continual descent from abeam the numbers (gear down and half flaps).

The difference in my book between ordinary and extraordinary pilots is one knows their limits and the other doesn't. Everything about being an extraordinary pilot centers on ADM and not stick and rudder skills. Being a good stick can make up for a lot of bad decisions but eventually a bad decision is going to get you.

Be coordinated and fly the right speeds hits it squarely, I wouldn't advocate standard rate turns in the pattern though or in general outside of IMC.

Lot's of things can cause one wing to stall before the other causing a drop not just uncoordinated flight.

Had a Skytec installed at annual that went bad on the flight home. Hit it a couple of times with a rubber mallet and it kicked over. Put a new one in (they shipped no issue and paid shipping of old one back). No issues in about 200hrs on the replacement.

Most airplanes unless you hold the wheel back will progress rapidly from a spin (an arobatic maneuver where air speed will hover at stall speed) to a spiral where airspeed rapidly increases. Spins are fun, spirals not so much. Never spun a Mooney and have no intention, sort of the same way I have never spun a twin. Some planes just aren't meant for it and recovery is often more luck than anything else. If you want to do spin training do it in a plane meant for it. Also keep in mind that unless you are doing a spin with a CFI for the purpose of a CFI rating and you have a passenger you need chutes technically.

People who go really need to remember 91.3 and not let themselves get pressured into things. If isn't right go around or do what you need to do.

Could be loose baffling. I would pull top of cowl off and poke around and look at the other obvious things others have suggested. The seat belt or door/baggage seals are obvious ones as well. I have had the seat belt issue a couple of times.

Give a call to Dave McGee at All American Aircraft he can tell you the pro's/con's and probably find exactly what you are looking for. It took me almost a year to find mine but happy to have waited.

Unfortunate set of circumstances, thank you for bringing facts to the discussion!

Somebody from the factory posted here or somewhere on the seat topic. Apparently there are a zillion parts in a seat and it takes a lot of man hours to put one together. I tried finding the thread but maybe somebody else will have better luck.

If it is just one person get them named on the policy.

To add to the questions who did them and how much?

John has the most valuable piece which is the airframe STC, it is no longer available. You can find the Rayjays, cowling, parts, and engine STC easy enough. The one missing piece for a new install though is the airframe STC.

Same with my S-Tec, took me about 15 seconds before I went duh :-)

$45K seems a bit high for a Warrior though not sure what you have for radios and what not, how are you getting that valuation? For $45K I would really look at C's which you are going to find much better candidates. By all means look at E/F's as well you could get lucky. I would retain the $15K for first year repairs, again can get lucky on that but usually first annual is addressing a lot of deferred items. Pretty much all single engine GA airplanes are easy enough to fly and a couple hours with somebody who knows the plane is all you really need to master it. Money's have their quirks but it certainly isn't rocket science to fly one.

Just buy a new plane with a nice interior :-)

The switch is in the top of the mechanism the lock is on the side. The gear handle has to just put a bit of pressure on the switch to make it green. You can get the handle stowed but not locked and have a green light. It isn't a very good design, nor really needed as a strong downward tug is the only check that guarantees its locked.

Use a very slow charge rate, airplane batteries do not deal with rapid charging. Mike Busch has a nice article on the topic.

Where is John Boyd and his fighter mafia when you need them. If you don't know who John Boyd is look him up and his biography is amazing. One of the greatest contributors to aviation that most have never heard of.

It isn't so much just the engine as it is all the moving parts. All those greased items from the prop to the gear don't get any activity. I worry less about corrosion in the engine then I do everything else when it doesn't fly.

It is useless in a manual gear as you can hit the switch to turn green but still not have the handle locked. So I pay it very little attention.

I have manual gear and jerk the handle down a lot to make sure it is locked. Actual count varies and the worse the weather the more I jerk it (it's relaxing lol). I always give a final tug on short final though. I don't worry so much about forgetting it as I do it popping out.