M20F

It has nothing to do with the OP.

Where did I say you did? We can play the obtuse game all day.

My 1967 F has never let me down, why try new things.

Did I post that in response to OP?

Paying lobbyists seems to be the cheapest option.

§ 91.527 Operating in icing conditions. (a) No pilot may take off an airplane that has frost, ice, or snow adhering to any propeller, windshield, stabilizing or control surface; to a powerplant installation; or to an airspeed, altimeter, rate of climb, or flight attitude instrument system or wing, except that takeoffs may be made with frost under the wing in the area of the fuel tanks if authorized by the FAA.

I am just incredibly strong and push mine up a 30 degree incline the 50 yards to the hangar. It’s a little tricky when it snows but then I just wear ice skates. I really don’t understand kids today.

I would consider it but all my exe’s live in Texas.

Own a 67F. My experience is the same about an hour tops. I made a post a few days back saying I wished it broke more as it is the easiest thing to fix.

I don’t know the relevance of anything else you wrote.

How many hours do you have FL210 or above?

I would negotiate it as a totally run out engine to buy and then IRAN. There are a lot of great buys out there, why would I pay a premium for a corroding cam? Did I miss the point here?

What does your dispatch rate need to be?

Not for $150 from a few years ago even accounting for inflation.

This is the easiest way. I see you have a GPS calculate TAS doing a 3 way and then compare with calculated TAS. Will give you the answer in under ten minutes.

Have one on mine and had good luck with it (2 in 13yrs). The 4 long bolts that hold the unit together tend to come loose. I just check it when I change the oil. It is quite literally the easiest piece of hardware to work on in a 67F I almost wish it would break more versus other things.

Don Maxwell who put mine and is a EI dealer must be one of them who apparently doesn’t.

It sucks but it is for usually 3 reasons. Difference in ambient. I was based in Chicago a number of years and I am now in Atlanta. Amazingly my heater works better. You get at best 40F of heating. If it’s 40F outside, it’s 80F in the plane. You will see all kinds of people living in PHX talking about how great their heater is and they can’t understand why people based in North Dakota are bitching. Altitude. We bought a RayJay to fly in FL’s. FL190 generally being the sweet spot. It is again mostly an ambient issue. People who fly around at 5000FT talk about how great the heater is and can’t understand why all the windows freeze at Fl210. Lastly the design just sucks. I have tried a million things, Maxwell has tried, otherwise men have tried. There just isn’t much heat coming off the design. You will freeze in general flying behind a RayJay especially in a cold place to begin with. I just dress warm and fly in the day (sun will bake you). I did make a run in January once from KJMS to KLZU at FL210 at night. The 104kt tailwind + 165 knots TAS was great. I still can’t feel my toes.

Buffing is not rocket science. Polishing is rocket science. Words have some very specific meanings here (IMC and IFR are kinda of the same but different). I am going to regret this but here we go. 1.) Single stage paint is a layer of paint and a protective coating. Clear coat is a transparent layer put over a base color. Paint looks bad primarily due to scratches or oxidation. To fix bad looking paint you need to remove oxidation and scratches, there is no other solution other than remove clear coat or paint. You do this by cutting, sanding, polishing, etc. You are taking an abrasive and removing material to get a flat defect free surface. Determine how think the paint/coating is if insufficient you need to strip/paint. You can find a decent paint/depth gauge on Amazon for $300 If you have a lot of depth do whatever If you don't care do whatever I used Comet powder to start buffing out the boot/trunk of my 71 MGB. It was red and not original. Whoever shot it (single stage) sprayed well and deep. I could have put an angle grinder to it and had paint left. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Everything above this line is dangerous. You can seriously mess up your paint with heat, abrasives, etc. If your true goal is museum quality finish you want somebody who absolutely knows their stuff. I can jet a carb but if I want to race Reno I am hiring a pro to jet my carb. For an airplane I would never recommend a paint correction (cut/polish/sand/etc.). You don't get up that close, a plane with decent paint and some wax looks good at 200 yards. If I am flying closer than 200yds to your plane we are very "good" friends... Once you have good paint the key is to protect it. I like Jescar Powerlock. Put that on. Wash it often with a neutral PH (won't strip wax) cleaner as often as you can. After first wash following Jescar put some wax on (you don't need everywhere mainly leading edges). I like Collinite 845. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ The above paragraph is where everyone goes wrong. I can make a piece of paint look perfect but that is for TODAY. You cannot keep going back to sand, cut, polish, etc. You run out of paint. The key is to wash frequently with good clean mitts/rags and a grit guard. Reapply wax/etc. It is about maintenance more than anything. Polishing should and be a ONE time thing. I do a pretty good job keeping the 71 MG looking good. My Mooney it looks great from 200 yards. READ THIS - IF you spent $15K+ on paint recently please PLEASE PLEASE do not be stupid. You had enough money to spend $15K to paint a toy so you are not poor. Paint correction is really hard, I do not recommend it (polish/sand/cut) for a plane any more than ceramic coating (different topic) but if you feel the need for it, best to hire a professional. Washing (very clean mit/rags use grit guard in bucket) and waxing/buffing do that all day long. Abrasives though is in fact rocket science.

I thought about flying today on 1/1/25, it was a glorious day in ATL. Then I decided eating left over charcuterie and drinking dredges of wine, champagne, and other fruitful drinks was a better way to spend the day. I promise on 1/2/25 to do better.

I was just with my mechanic Carl Spackler (he also takes care of the grass runways). I told him no tip but on your death bed you will have total consciousness. He seemed to be appreciative, it isn’t always about the $$.

If it is a clear coat you won’t till you cut through the clear coat. If it is single stage you will get color. Polishing removes swirls and scratches by grinding the surface to flatness and that requires portions of the surface to be removed.

Polish is an abrasive by default it is going to remove things to make that shine. I would be very careful with polishes and polishing pads in general. One shouldn’t really be using polish except for extreme cases.

The same way the lottery fixed education funding?

Paintbrush seems a great solution ;-)